Help Grafting Atemoya & Cherimoya

[behlgarden]

I have 8-yr old Cherimoya tree, another 5 yr old Cherimoya and Atemoya tree. I am planning to graft Lisa (from Adam) on to my Cherimoya OR Atemoya and experiment Cherimoya on to Atemoya as well.  Few questions for pros on this forum who have successfully grafted these fruits:
1. Will Cherimoya graft onto Atemoya?
2. Will Lisa graft onto Cherimoya and Atemoya?

Does anyone has their own success story on How to Graft these fruit trees successfully OR a link that I can follow?

I have Cherimoya cuttings as scion if anyone wants them. 

[TropicalFruitHunters]

I believe timing is critical with cherimoya at least.  When finally hitting up the time while still dormant but soon to break, I was able to graft 3 varieties onto my large seedling.  I used cleft grafts.  Since the atemoya and cherimoya are so similar and close, I don't see why they would not be compatible.  My cherimoya approach graft well also onto seedlings.  I think you will have a good chance at success.

[behlgarden]

What do I need to do a successful graft? tape, wax? good online source?

[FlyingFoxFruits]

I have 8-yr old Cherimoya tree, another 5 yr old Cherimoya and Atemoya tree. I am planning to graft Lisa (from Adam) on to my Cherimoya OR Atemoya and experiment Cherimoya on to Atemoya as well.  Few questions for pros on this forum who have successfully grafted these fruits:
1. Will Cherimoya graft onto Atemoya?
2. Will Lisa graft onto Cherimoya and Atemoya?

Does anyone has their own success story on How to Graft these fruit trees successfully OR a link that I can follow?

I have Cherimoya cuttings as scion if anyone wants them.

Yes you can graft onto all of the above, each other...but I would choose cherimoya as rootstock near you.

Also, I use a side veneer graft, it works very well....all big nurseries in FL use side veneer...It also allows for better rate of success if your scion width diameter is less compatible with your rootstock diameter.

Make sure your cuts are flat! SURFACE TO SURFACE MOST CONTACT OF AS POSSIBLE, that's why grafting knives are beveled on one edge! FLAT CUTS!, SURFACE CONTACT!  TIMING IS CRITICAL FOR SCION, more so THAN ROOTSTOCK...I won't mail you scions that are at the wrong stage for grafting...you hit me up at a perfect time!

Hope you get them to take!  I have been grafting them with success, you can email me and ask for pictures....I don't know if I can dig any up, but will try...I have more tips on grafting if you need!  PARAFILM IS A MUST FOR VENEER GRAFTING ANNONAS in MY OPINION.

GOOD LUCK

[behlgarden]

Thanks. I looked up online and found several folks selling grafting tape, budding tape, tools, etc. and are quite pricy too.  Does anyone know a good source/link to decent products that dont cost an arm and a leg?

[FlyingFoxFruits]

Thanks. I looked up online and found several folks selling grafting tape, budding tape, tools, etc. and are quite pricy too.  Does anyone know a good source/link to decent products that dont cost an arm and a leg?

http://riversendnursery.com/shop/parafilm-grafting-tape/
out of TX.

I get mine there to support them, I don't remember them being to pricey!  Get a roll of the paraflim tape.

[behlgarden]

Thanks

[behlgarden]

What size should be used? I see 1/2" all the way to 4", which size is better for parafilm

[FlyingFoxFruits]

What size should be used? I see 1/2" all the way to 4", which size is better for parafilm

I like the 1 inch size I believe, half inch is ok too..you'll need a grafting tape to! It has a different, more rigid texture, its also able to pull tight to seal "cambium to cambium" as best as possible! Wrap from bottom to top!!

[behlgarden]

I thought Parafilm is the grafting tape as that's what folks are calling it. Now I am confused again.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

I thought Parafilm is the grafting tape as that's what folks are calling it. Now I am confused again.

No man, do you have my phone number?? if so just call me I hate typing....

But real simple...one tape is not made of wax, and can be pulled hard and tight, to seal your graft union, almost like a doctor would use....staples to seal your chest after cracking it open

the parafilm tape is what goes over the whole deal, covering the graft union and scion, sealing out all elements, and sealing in moisture like a mini greenhouse...the buds of the scion can push through when ready and you don't even need to remove parafilm

so parafilm is like the gauze bandage that keeps your wound from infection and so your skin can heal properly, with the staples or stitches holding your chest meat in place as it heals back(metaphorically like your cambium to cambium wound when attaching scion to rootstock).


THE ABOVE METHOD IS USED WITH VENEER GRAFTING, WHICH IS EASIEST FOR ME WITH ATEMOYA AND SIMILAR SPECIES.

hope that helped paint a better picture....lol

[behlgarden]

Adam, yes, I do intend on calling you soon. I finally ordered 1" wide 90' long parafilm from online source that someone pointed out here. 

I will call you sometime over the weekend and get a clear understanding. I also intend on grafting onto my mature guava trees with pink guava and other varieties. I might be hooked to grafting soon.

[Andrew]

Not sure what I'm going to do with it since I already have a Lisa atemoya but it was fun trying to graft. The rootstock was about two centimeters when I grafted and I wrapped the graft in Paraffin as best as I could. So, how does everybody think I did? Do think it's going to survive? Any tips would be helpful and its been a week.

[Jsvand5]

You should use wood that has buds that haven't pushed yet. I don't think you have much luck with that one.

[socal10b]

cover it with a moist bag you may have a chance. good luck.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

you will have it figured out in no time!

yes..try to choose the bud wood at the proper stage...earlier is better than later.

good luck!

[Andrew]

Yeah, I already figured there was little chance of success. It was a good learning experience though. Thanks for the input everybody.

[turgut]

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[FlyingFoxFruits]

looks good Turgut....

I hope you get a take!

here is a post from a different thread that might be helpful!

I decided to make another attempt at grafting the dream atemoya...my last attempts (in my post right below) were only about 20% successful.

I think this is because I grafted them before we got our first winter chill...and the sap flow was affected by the cold weather.

now that the trees have been exposed to the chill, and have gone dormant, I think my grafts will be more successful. (provided I keep the plants above 39F and free of any windchill, for example, in a greenhouse)

I will be sure to let you know when this graft fails or pushes!

Here is cherimoya rootstock that I'm reusing from my last attempts that failed...you can see the scar where I tried before.  I'm going to make my cuts right underneath.

cut one.  Nice and flat, straight down, about 1.5 inch

cut two.  I trim the flap of bark, you can see the trimmed portion that fell on the soil.

cut three.  The scion is cut, so that it will match the cut on rootstock.

cut four (final cut)  I think they call this one a ramp cut...I guess its to make your veneer graft fit snugly into place, and to give the cambium on both sides of the scion a chance to callus...but I've seen people skip this cut.

Placed together, the union looks snug....no light penetrating through the seams.

wrap with rubber band and tape from bottom to top to seal out moisture.


Place in warm spot (my greenhouse) and wait!

[Andrew]

Thanks for all the help everybody. I made a second attempt at grafting with a Glenn Mango. I’m getting better but still made a lot of mistakes. I should of cleaned the scion seven days before I cut and tried to graft. Also, I know the piece of scion I selected was too far in budding stage. Here it is day eight and everything is still nice and green. The buds started opening yesterday pushing new grow. Not sure if that’s a good or bad thing this early.

[Andrew]

What am I doing wrong. I made a second attempt of grafting a Lisa on a cherimoya rootstock about two weeks ago. I thought I did everything right, I made a inch an a half cut along the side and cut all but four small leafs off the top to keep the seedling alive. Everything look good for about two weeks then today all of a sudden it turned black. I removed the Paraffin and sure enough the scion in dead but it looked like it was almost completely fused all the way around. The only thing I can think of was that maybe I wrapped a rubber band around it too tightly. I'm quite sad, I though I would finally have it figured out. As always any suggestion would be appreciated.

[Bush2Beach]

You could try a cleft graft below the failed veneer and try to impart some of that apical dominance that helps a graft succeed .

[PltdWorld]

Andrew - lots of good suggestions from other members above: cleft grafts work very well with cherimoya & scion selection (mature but non-budding) is critical.

I am not very familiar with east coast, but would it be better to use an atemoya or squamosa root stock there?  In California, cherimoya root stocks work well because the trees grow like weeds - but cherimoya doesn't seem to do as well on the east coast?

Also, it would probably be easier to use thicker root stock when you're starting out.  More room for error.

Good luck!  You'll get it, I'm sure.

This was one of first grafts I did last year of Selma onto seedling cherimoya rootstock.  Cherimoya seedling was approx 1 year old.  Forum members suggested using a longer cleft.  The tree is healthy, approx 2' tall now.

[Andrew]

Again, thank you to everybody that took time out of their day to write all these great suggestions. I think I finally have it figured out. I know this is wrong time of year but everything seems to be going good. I may never need to graft anything again. But, It’s nice to know that if I wanted to I have the skill to do it.

[Osito]

WOOOOHOOOO!!! Congrats!!