Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - tedburn

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1
Keraji after 3 years in ground with first flowers


2

First flowers of Sanford Curafora, planted in ground in 2020

3
Interesting table, though we all know, that the datas can only show a rough estimate due to complex influences of coldhardiness, as rootstock, ..... From my experience some very cold hardy citrus as Citrumelo x Yuzu, Chimera Prag, Bloomsweet Pomelo, 5* Citrumelo and Morton Citrange are still missing.
Morton ( on Poncirus) and Chimera Prag ( survived in my region -16 °C with fleece protection (Morton on FA 5 with 30% twig damage). The others -13 ° C also as a 1 year old graft of Clem yuz 2-2 on Poncirus.

4
After 2 and 3 years in ground most of my hardy citrus gets flowers here

HRS899a


Yuzu x Citrumelo


Chimera Prag



5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: cracks in rootstock after freeze
« on: May 13, 2023, 04:29:42 AM »
I know this problem also, citrus are in good shape when remooving protection fleece end of february or march and then deeper nightfrosts and daysun and higher day temperatures then lead to bark cracks. Some of them heal, some lead to infected and dying twigs or
plant. This means to protect against daysun while nigt freezes below -3 or -4 ° C arises and to kerp the plant protected and dormant.

6
Which zygotic  seedlings do you still raise in your pot ?

7
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Tavares Limequat
« on: May 07, 2023, 04:28:00 PM »
this year it took in pot -8 °C and looked very good begin march, but got stressed by following nightfrosts with daysun in april.
But still no fruits yet, a graft oft it has flowers but they are still closed, so hope to get fruits end of summer - I' m also curious  ;)

8
I had some Ichangstar60 seedlings, most of them died but about 3 or 4 are coming back from the roots after 4 days below freezing and a low of 9F.

That sounds good, frost hardiness also should get a little better with age and size.
I have a 2 year grafted ichangstar 60 on PT which gets in ground the bext days. Im very excited how hardy it will be compared to my other in ground citrus hybrids.

9
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: To protect or not to protect
« on: May 07, 2023, 12:58:30 AM »
I tested grafting already with a few month old seedlings and you have to take care due to the size, but it works well, only the scions also have been seedlings.
But with normal scions not so big you already could graft on one or two year old seedlings.

10
Did all the seedlings survive or did some freeze to death?

From 3 Ichangstar 60 seedlings did 2 survive. But lowest temperature was only -8. But I think more severe have been several late frosts with daysun

11
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Flavor in cooler climates
« on: May 06, 2023, 01:45:49 AM »
I think flavour is relativ, everyone interprets good flavour different, but with my flavour in my conditions south Germany, zone 7, my citrus in summer on a south to south east veranda and winter in greenhouse down to 1°C I can report from my experience that I have since some years very delicious satsumas, pomelo valentine and cocktailpomelo, Kumquat fukushu and meiwa and lemon.
I also like my Navel oranges which are more sour than sweet but delicious.

12
These are seedlings. The grafted ones are still in pot.

13
Final results after this winter

 From 3 now 2 year old N1 tri Voss seedlings finaly this one survived (in March it still seemed to have at least two survivors), they took passiv fleece protected -11 °C


from other 2 year old seedlings one Meyer lemon, star ruby Grapefruit and one Ichangstar 60 died, they took as lowest -8 ° C in their passive fleece protected area.
Survivors two Ichangstar 60, two star rubys and a young graft I x S on flying dragon


My I x S, now 3 winter protected and heating under -7 ° C, looks very bad with a lot of bark cracks from several night frosts with day sun and to early opening of fleece. But I think I will replant this plant or replant it to waste  >:(.




The last problem plant is my Ivia - without protection in winter it showed good shape in march and now it seems to have a trunk disease. I already took a graft, because I don' t know if it will survive ?





Other Plants in ground have done very well, also new ones as Clemyuz22, from planting last summer.


14
This year some of my inground citrus shows small progresses but at least for me a great pleasure  ;).


after 3 years in ground Sanford Curafora shows first flower buds



last years graft of Nippon Orangequat on Sanford Curafora   survived just over graft unit 



Also one year old Keraji graft on Sanford Curafora with nearly no problems



Citsuma Prag also starts to build flower buds the second year, though the plant is still small and slow growing after 3 years in ground  ::)



Citrumelo x Yuzu for the first time with flower buds, seems to be very cold hardy up to now





15
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Prague Citsuma
« on: April 19, 2023, 11:38:17 AM »
early sunlight is only a problem in combination with nightfrosts. If you don' t have night frost in spring it s no problem. If you have night frosts later sun is better,  when the air is warm and small twigs not frozen anymore. Or as I do, giving shade to the plant until the nightfrezees are over in later spring.

16
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Prague Citsuma
« on: April 17, 2023, 01:20:31 PM »
My Prag on oncirus is three years in ground in z7 and got passiv fleece protection. I can confirm very high hardiness against very low temperatures but in spring sun protection for days with daysun and nightfrost is necessary. The first two years I took the shading fleece already end of february away and lost some upper smal twigs with bark cracks.
This year I shaded longer and had no damage

17
thanks Kumin  :)

18
I received fruits and tasted them. My grafted plants haven't fruited yet, but should within a year or two.


Bishop has indeed survived.

Is anything known about the parents of this cross anf if it is also spread in Europe - would be worthfull here too  ;)

19
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: best material for tree protection
« on: April 16, 2023, 02:31:07 AM »
The brick is a quick and easy way for posting the bamboo sticks and perhaps he also brings a little bit of protection to the lower part of the plant.

20
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: best material for tree protection
« on: April 15, 2023, 06:17:28 PM »
I don' t know what the best material is, but I can show, how I protect my frosthardier citrus.



For younger plants, or plants with new grafts, I take
a double layer protection with inner layer oc cocos mat and
a second layer with frost protection fleece.
For good wrapping and space around the plants, that not so much leafes touch the protection layer, I put some bricks around the plant and put sticks of bambus in the holes of the bricks. Around bricks and sticks I wrap the layers and fix them with clamps. In the inner I still lay some water bottles.



For the Prag chimera, which grows slow and is hardy but still small, I used only one layer of frost protection fleece.


21
Cold Hardiness results, low of 9F. -13C:
Dead
Bloomsweet  High grafted and some poncirus growth allowed below.
Juanita
Brown Select
US 119

A lot of damage
Keraji, one larger tree dead.  Another will recover
Curafora
10 Degree 3-3

In better shape, minimal or no damage
10 Degree 2-2
CiClem 10
Ventura Lemondarin
Morton
Swingle
Bishop 852

Very interesting your experience this winter.
Have your trees been protected ?
Also interesting, because most results are according to my experience, only Keraji and Bloomsweet differ.
We also had a low of 9° F, -13° C, but my Keraji and Bloomsweet graft survived without damage. But perhaps you had more consecutive frost day and no frost cloth.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I always find this helpful for relative frost hardiness comparison.

22

 Bishop Citrandarin, possible progeny of 852 Citrandarin. This tree is grafted onto Poncirus and has only been field planted since last Summer. The tree was exposed to prolonged to 2°F temperatures accompanied by high winds. The tree exhibits obvious damage, but appears to be recovering. The original tree was planted and fruited by Hardy Vermont.

That sounds very hardy, even for the not so big plant. Did you already taste the fruits ?

23
Well My zone 7 experiment failed. Arctic Frost, Orange Frost, and Bumper all succumbed to this years winter. I thought they could male it unprotected but alas they are dead to the roots.

Oh  that s a pity, but I wouldn' t say failed, the first try failed  ;), there are still a lot of varieties worth for a try in zone 7, though not all have very good fruits. But I think Prag Citsuma, and Carolina lime from Stan Mc Kenzie nurseries should be very frosthardy  and have good fruits.
My Prag Citsuma survived very good 3 winters down to -16 ° C. The only protection was a frost cloth, espeacially for night frosts with day sun in spring.
Have good luck.


24
Interesting difference in hardiness between Ichangensis x Sinensis ( I x S), due to rootstock and sun exposition


Small I x S  graft on PT, which saw  - 8 ° C under passive protection and from March on without protection nightfreezes with daysun. Absolut no damage  8).
The plants beside are star ruby seedlings, more frost hardy tjan I thought.


I x S, on unknown rootstock, with passive protection until March and heater when temps. fallen under -7 ° C.
In March nearly no damage, after no protection in March with night freezes and daysun got a lot of damage at small twigs with deadly bark cracks.
Difference to small I x S, no Poncirus rootstock and morning sun about 1 h earlier and longer sun in the afternoon.


25
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Morton graft on taitri in zone 7a
« on: April 09, 2023, 12:25:05 AM »
Congratulation, shows again, how important winter dormancy is for cold hardiness

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk