One time use Chelated Iron EDDHA

[murahilin]

I only have one or two trees that have iron issues that I need to drench with EDDHA chelated iron, so it doesn't make sense for me to buy an entire container that I would have to store for months or years. I found a small package on ebay for about $5 that mixes into 5 liters of water. It's perfect for a few trees without ending up with another container of fertilizer in my garage.

Heres a link to what I bought: http://r.ebay.com/B5CMqV
Shipping from Spain only took a week.

I figured it may be useful to other members.

[raimeiken]

i got about 5lbs of this stuff. I don't know what the shelf life of it is but I use quite a bit of it each year because of our high alkaline conditions here, especially that I have trees that are quite prone to iron chlorisis.

[CTMIAMI]

That package only has less than 1/2 oz not enough for a big tree. I can get the 2lb packets on the same material for about $18.00  but you need to buy 10 packets would be ideal for a group of people to do a group purchase of this material. Is Excellent.

[murahilin]

I fully understand that its cheaper to buy larger quantities of iron. The purpose of this post was specifically for those who only need a very small amount and do not want to store extra.

[Cookie Monster]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

[BahamaDan]

Raimei what rate do you use this at, and how long does it take to be effective? I just bought some of this for my more chlorotic looking plants, sandy soil on limestone bedrock.

[Saltcayman]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches... 

[BahamaDan]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

[Saltcayman]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

Yes, I am on limestone, but with more of a red laterite dust mixed with sand. 8.2 ph. After laying down casaurina straw mulch and wood chips and spreading sulfur and dry humates over the past four years, I no longer see iron deficiency issues.

[JF]

I use Grow More 6546 EDDHA Iron Chelate it comes in 1lb it last me over a year. I tried sprint330 for a while but I went back to Grow More EDDHA Iron Chelate it does wonder for my high alkaline soil

http://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-6546-Chelate-1-Pound/dp/B00BWE2CUE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455602485&sr=8-1&keywords=eddha+iron+chelate

[bsbullie]

I use Grow More 6546 EDDHA Iron Chelate it comes in 1lb it last me over a year. I tried sprint330 for a while but I went back to Grow More EDDHA Iron Chelate it does wonder for my high alkaline soil

http://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-6546-Chelate-1-Pound/dp/B00BWE2CUE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455602485&sr=8-1&keywords=eddha+iron+chelate

If anyone in my area is interested,  I may be willing to place a group order.  Please PM me.

[EvilFruit]

I use Grow More 6546 EDDHA Iron Chelate it comes in 1lb it last me over a year. I tried sprint330 for a while but I went back to Grow More EDDHA Iron Chelate it does wonder for my high alkaline soil

http://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-6546-Chelate-1-Pound/dp/B00BWE2CUE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455602485&sr=8-1&keywords=eddha+iron+chelate

You certainly made the right choice. Fe Eddha is more effective than FeEdta or Dpta and can be easily absorbed  by the roots even in very high ph soil.

The ligands EDTA, DTPA, and EDDHA are often used in chelated fertilizers (Table 4). Their effectiveness differs significantly. Generally speaking, EDDHA chelated Fe is most stable at soil pH greater than 7 (Figure 4, A and B). Chelated fertilizer stability is desired because it means the chelated micronutrient will remain in a bioavailable form for a much longer time period, thus increasing micronutrient use efficiency in vegetable and fruit production. The stability of three typical chelated Fe fertilizers varies at different pH conditions (Figure 4, A). The Y-axis represents the ratio of chelated Fe to total chelate and ranges from 0 to 1.0. A value of 1.0 means the chelate is stable. The X-axis represents soil pH. At 6.0, the ratios for all of the three chelated Fe fertilizers are 1.0 (stable), but at pH 7.5, only the ratio of EDDTA chelated Fe is 1.0. That of DTPA chelated Fe is only 0.5, and that of EDTA chelated Fe is only 0.025. So, in practice, EDDTA chelated Fe fertilizer is most effective when pH is greater than 7 but most costly. Accordingly, crop yields of these three chelated fertilizers are in this order: FeEDDHA > FeDTPA > FeEDTA (Figure 4, B). See Micronutrient Deficiencies in Citrus: Iron, Zinc, and Manganese (http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ss423) for effective pH ranges of iron chelates. Table 3 shows the relationship between soil pH and chelated fertilizer requirement.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1208

[BahamaDan]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

Yes, I am on limestone, but with more of a red laterite dust mixed with sand. 8.2 ph. After laying down casaurina straw mulch and wood chips and spreading sulfur and dry humates over the past four years, I no longer see iron deficiency issues.

I'm really glad to hear that, if we have lots of anything it's casuarinas LOL. I've seen some Tiger 90 bags of sulfur at one of the hardware stores too so might incorporate that, how heavy/how far out do you apply the c. straw mulch?

[BahamaDan]

I use Grow More 6546 EDDHA Iron Chelate it comes in 1lb it last me over a year. I tried sprint330 for a while but I went back to Grow More EDDHA Iron Chelate it does wonder for my high alkaline soil

http://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-6546-Chelate-1-Pound/dp/B00BWE2CUE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455602485&sr=8-1&keywords=eddha+iron+chelate

I just bought this, how do you apply it and at what rate?

[Saltcayman]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

Yes, I am on limestone, but with more of a red laterite dust mixed with sand. 8.2 ph. After laying down casaurina straw mulch and wood chips and spreading sulfur and dry humates over the past four years, I no longer see iron deficiency issues.

I'm really glad to hear that, if we have lots of anything it's casuarinas LOL. I've seen some Tiger 90 bags of sulfur at one of the hardware stores too so might incorporate that, how heavy/how far out do you apply the c. straw mulch?

You can add the straw mulch up to a foot thick. Certainly beyond the dripline of each tree but I just cover large areas of the yard where I have plantings.  Good luck!! It will break down pretty quickly and the fines will really improve the soil and water holding capacity.  Then keep adding as needed.  Yes, that Tiger 90 is what I use. Scatter on top of the mulch.

[BahamaDan]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

Yes, I am on limestone, but with more of a red laterite dust mixed with sand. 8.2 ph. After laying down casaurina straw mulch and wood chips and spreading sulfur and dry humates over the past four years, I no longer see iron deficiency issues.

I'm really glad to hear that, if we have lots of anything it's casuarinas LOL. I've seen some Tiger 90 bags of sulfur at one of the hardware stores too so might incorporate that, how heavy/how far out do you apply the c. straw mulch?

You can add the straw mulch up to a foot thick. Certainly beyond the dripline of each tree but I just cover large areas of the yard where I have plantings.  Good luck!! It will break down pretty quickly and the fines will really improve the soil and water holding capacity.  Then keep adding as needed.  Yes, that Tiger 90 is what I use. Scatter on top of the mulch.

Ok thanks, I have some (copious amount) newspaper on hand too so I was thinking I could lay a couple sheets of it down for weeds then the c. straw over it, sounds good? Also if I want to put some, say, manure as part of the mulch, should it be over or under the c. straw? And how much Tiger 90 sulfur to apply? Thanks again.

[Saltcayman]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

Yes, I am on limestone, but with more of a red laterite dust mixed with sand. 8.2 ph. After laying down casaurina straw mulch and wood chips and spreading sulfur and dry humates over the past four years, I no longer see iron deficiency issues.

I'm really glad to hear that, if we have lots of anything it's casuarinas LOL. I've seen some Tiger 90 bags of sulfur at one of the hardware stores too so might incorporate that, how heavy/how far out do you apply the c. straw mulch?

You can add the straw mulch up to a foot thick. Certainly beyond the dripline of each tree but I just cover large areas of the yard where I have plantings.  Good luck!! It will break down pretty quickly and the fines will really improve the soil and water holding capacity.  Then keep adding as needed.  Yes, that Tiger 90 is what I use. Scatter on top of the mulch.

Ok thanks, I have some (copious amount) newspaper on hand too so I was thinking I could lay a couple sheets of it down for weeds then the c. straw over it, sounds good? Also if I want to put some, say, manure as part of the mulch, should it be over or under the c. straw? And how much Tiger 90 sulfur to apply? Thanks again.

I would layer manure, newspaper, straw then sulfur applied at 100 lbs per acre  I reapplied the sulfur every six months for three years

[Cookie Monster]

Yah, you can lay the mulch down really thick. I use tree trimmer mulch at a thickness of about a foot. It lasts roughly a 18 months.

You can actually go really heavy with the tiger 90 for "most" plants. Annonas seem to be very sensitive to it, so be extra careful around them. I applied about 1 ton (2,000 pounds) of tiger 90 to a 1/4 acre as an experiment about a year ago. Out of about 3 dozen trees, the only ones that were adversely affected were a handful of annonas and a guava tree.

While you can't feasibly modify the PH of soil that is > 1% calcium carbonate, it's generally possible to acidify the top few inches of soil above the hardpan.

Organic matter (eg, compost) will actually begin to buffer the PH in both directions -- meaning it's really hard to move it away from a 7.0 (once fully degraded). Just a handful of tiger 90 will effect a dramatic change in pH on sand (which has a very low pH buffer capacity), but it's fairly ineffective on soil with a lot of organic material, as the organic material buffers the pH.

[Saltcayman]

Yah, you can lay the mulch down really thick. I use tree trimmer mulch at a thickness of about a foot. It lasts roughly a 18 months.

You can actually go really heavy with the tiger 90 for "most" plants. Annonas seem to be very sensitive to it, so be extra careful around them. I applied about 1 ton (2,000 pounds) of tiger 90 to a 1/4 acre as an experiment about a year ago. Out of about 3 dozen trees, the only ones that were adversely affected were a handful of annonas and a guava tree.

While you can't feasibly modify the PH of soil that is > 1% calcium carbonate, it's generally possible to acidify the top few inches of soil above the hardpan.

Organic matter (eg, compost) will actually begin to buffer the PH in both directions -- meaning it's really hard to move it away from a 7.0 (once fully degraded). Just a handful of tiger 90 will effect a dramatic change in pH on sand (which has a very low pH buffer capacity), but it's fairly ineffective on soil with a lot of organic material, as the organic material buffers the pH.

Wow! 2000 lbs of sulfur.  That is hard Corp. what  has your ph change been?

[Cookie Monster]

HAHAHA Yah, I overdid it. It went from a ph of about 7.5 down to ~2.0 :-). In my case, the soil (which I imported from palm beach county) was loamy sand with little to no organic material and very little calcium. In retrospect, this type of soil has a very low buffer capacity, so I probably could have used a LOT less. It was a fun experiment though.

On my other lot, where the soil is mostly organic material from years of heavy mulching, sulfur does little good. That rate might give me a drop from 7.2 to 6.5.

[Saltcayman]

7.5 to 2  lol.

[BahamaDan]

7.5 to 2  lol.

I don't think I'm aiming for quite that low lol, but I collected a couple trashbags worth of casuarina needles the other day to try laying down around some of my fruit trees so hopefully it works well. Most of them have grass right up to the trunk so I'll probably have to put down something to smother them under the needles.

[BahamaDan]

I'm still not sure how much of the Iron EDDHA to apply? I diluted some in water and watered a couple plants with no response after a couple weeks, but I probably didn't get the concentration right.

[Mark in Texas]

I fully understand that its cheaper to buy larger quantities of iron. The purpose of this post was specifically for those who only need a very small amount and do not want to store extra.

Are you sure you have an iron deficiency?  Treating with iron is the first knee jerk reaction gottafixit after witnessing leaf chlorosis when the problem can be one or more micro deficiencies, especially zinc, even manganese.

Keyplex stuff is about as good as it gets for me.

[Mark in Texas]

Use of high P foods will induce a micro deficiency.   

I always start with a soil analysis to see what I've got.

[Doglips]

I fully understand that its cheaper to buy larger quantities of iron. The purpose of this post was specifically for those who only need a very small amount and do not want to store extra.

Are you sure you have an iron deficiency?  Treating with iron is the first knee jerk reaction gottafixit after witnessing leaf chlorosis when the problem can be one or more micro deficiencies, especially zinc, even manganese.

Keyplex stuff is about as good as it gets for me.

The good thing about iron is that it is really tough to overdo it.  Of all of the major, minor and micros, it is the only one that I know of that you really can't overdose on.  May not solve your problem, but won't make it worse either.  I'm a fan of foliage pro, looks deficient, hit it with foliage pro.

[Mark in Texas]

The good thing about iron is that it is really tough to overdo it.  Of all of the major, minor and micros, it is the only one that I know of that you really can't overdose on.  May not solve your problem, but won't make it worse either.  I'm a fan of foliage pro, looks deficient, hit it with foliage pro.

Good points.  Been using Foliage Pro for years.  Used it as a foliar spray on my vineyard last year.  Not that the FP was to blame but out of 195 vines I allowed to yield got a record 3,050 lbs. of premium quality.

[BahamaDan]

The good thing about iron is that it is really tough to overdo it.  Of all of the major, minor and micros, it is the only one that I know of that you really can't overdose on.  May not solve your problem, but won't make it worse either.  I'm a fan of foliage pro, looks deficient, hit it with foliage pro.

Good points.  Been using Foliage Pro for years.  Used it as a foliar spray on my vineyard last year.  Not that the FP was to blame but out of 195 vines I allowed to yield got a record 3.050 lbs. of premium quality.

Was that meant to be a comma after the 3? I feel bad for you if you only got 3.1 pounds from 195 vines

[Mark in Texas]

The good thing about iron is that it is really tough to overdo it.  Of all of the major, minor and micros, it is the only one that I know of that you really can't overdose on.  May not solve your problem, but won't make it worse either.  I'm a fan of foliage pro, looks deficient, hit it with foliage pro.

Good points.  Been using Foliage Pro for years.  Used it as a foliar spray on my vineyard last year.  Not that the FP was to blame but out of 195 vines I allowed to yield got a record 3.050 lbs. of premium quality.

Was that meant to be a comma after the 3? I feel bad for you if you only got 3.1 pounds from 195 vines

Edited, as in 1.5 tons.  Got European for a moment. 

[dm]

I also do not know what the application rate would be for young (3-15 gal size) trees, mango and others.
What are you EDDHA users doing?

Thanks

[brian]

I use about a teaspoon of EDDHA in a 5gal bucket when I apply it. 

Enough to make my the blue fertilizer turn bright green.

[1rainman]

You might want to try sulfur. Given your location, Sheehan, you should be able to easily acidify your soil to the point where good old granular fertilizer supplies sufficient iron. The soil I had imported from delray beach responds very favorably to sulfur application. All of my ph sensitive trees that are in that soil are doing phenomenally.

Yes, Sulfur and copious amounts of organic mulch can really help eliminate the need for chelated iron drenches...

Even when growing upon limestone/in sandy alkaline soil? My interest is certainly piqued.

Yes, I am on limestone, but with more of a red laterite dust mixed with sand. 8.2 ph. After laying down casaurina straw mulch and wood chips and spreading sulfur and dry humates over the past four years, I no longer see iron deficiency issues.

We have limestone and sand in Florida. Usually if a plant has yellow leaves it's a nitrogen deficiency though iron is a factor. The sand just doesn't hold nutrients. Simple solution dig a hole fill it with compost and maybe perlite or add a little clay even. Or just fertilize all the time but then most of it goes into the water supply causing algae blooms.

[zands]

You can buy iron sulfate at ebay/amazon. I have some. Mix it in water with wettable sulfur to make a chealte for alkaline soils/ ________ If your trees are well mulched with wood chips. Sprinkle this iron on top of the mulch. It should chelate into the mulch. Unless heavy rains wash it down. Or make a compost of this iron with wood chips.

Try using this the same way  https://southernag.com/product/essential-minor-elements-granular-formulation/     ----- and-----
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224072918812?epid=1203684361&hash=item342bc9671c:g:2MAAAOSwMVdYGktI&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAJzh3pYozS%2B%2Bd3%2F1v2JpUo0V7UH4q%2FaAIwva1Tf3RMsPUFSXEKdH6YvPfPrNHfSREccn6%2Bu6MAUXppQeGZMDxZgls1i8qgzzVkh23Swj%2Bkk75iW7DneTdrBDs9KhBhPrkK1HHPR%2Fol%2BXiajJNrccFTHeoQtjhKRSEjbj8%2BZki58E0sCAYqmxliiX5EBWnUnYPyc8eVNmH7Z1Z9%2BlZDSRhdD9EqntsIYUbg9c1%2BPHRYLEpg2OKJKmdZF5GiN8HOS2qYZwh6QMuRORu%2Fb8T7jgsuHu1g5UYFsC8wfJUOiwVkUgRxEDtDhGv4vCqDJt6B7pKryNIXyUcqf4z6whke5oJG8%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5LWsdziYQ