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I have an in-ground grimal jabo (I'm gonna say around 6 - 7 ft) that you can take a chance digging out. It's getting cleared out one way or the other to make room for something else. Fruited for the first time a few months ago.
Looks like some kind of burn, maybe from fertilizer. Have you been feeding it something when this happened?
Where do you get mangoes from? Who is this Alex guy lol
You are kidding? https://www.tropicalacresfarms.com/shop
Yep, great resource and a humble man. After losing 2 of 3 large branches of Orange Sherbet attached at the same point on the trunk of a cocktail tree Har pointed out that it's too much weight bearing for such a single point. Alternate branching is the only way to go on mango.
To be honest I haven't really tasted a bad mango coming out of Florida whether I grew it or ordered a box from Alex year after year. I also LOVE Glenn which bought from PIN. I have a graft/branch of Fruit Punch on it.
I know these are Har's faves but there's lots good ones like Sweet Tart and Pineapple Pleasure too.
My first Glenn. The super sweet almost nauseating tropical aroma that comes from this fruit is unreal. Had to move it away from my computer it's so strong. Great texture and taste.
Mark
Slow release fertilizers like osmocote plus would be easier to use & eliminate possible fertilizer burn etc. and probably worth it if trees are planted at a location that you do not monitor them almost daily.
A lot of variables already mentioned. Also hopefully you planted it in native soil without mixing in organic matter but rather putting the organic matter in the pictures only on top of the native sandy soil.
The more organic matter, the less watering needed. Too little or much of anything is bad.
I have dug holes as deep as two feet.
#1 remove the black top soil and put in a five gallon bucket or two. Set it aside.
#2 dig into that rocky subsoil with a pick axe and an iron digging bar. Remove and set aside. I am fairly sure your subsoil is no more rocky than mine. You can also breakup that soil with a hammer and hammering a tough flat blade screw driver into it
#3 Now you have a nice hole. I place more emphasis on digging downward than making a really wide hole
#4 remove the limestone rocks from you subsoil. Throw them in the garbage. If you have a sifter you siftt out the stones and rocks, you can save some for mixing with cement.
#5 look very carefully at the hole and estimate its volume
#6 take the topsoil you set aside and mix it with one bag topsoil from Home Depot or Lowes.....Guess the volume of what you have
#7 FIRST Toss enough rock-free subsoil into yer hole >>>> So that the hole will be filled to the top when you toss in your mix of HD topsoil and your own topsoil. Pat down your holes topsoil to remove the air that fluffs it up
#8 BEFORE you plant your tree get yer garden hose and water that hole heavily so that the new soil mix sinks down as much as it likes
#9 wait 24 hours ....The next day add more HD topsoil if the soil in your hole has sunk down too much
#10 plant your tree that day
#11 mulch around your newly planted tree
#12 Water new tree every second day
#13 wait a few weeks before starting to fertilize
Would growing sweet potatoes before I plant the trees help build up the soil? As well as adding other amendments such as worm castings, biochar, azemite, and mulch. Thanks!Sweet potatoes will grow on fairly poor soil and like sand but don't really build up soil, and removing the harvest removes nutrients from the soil. They do make a good ground cover but I had some potatoes form around the roots of newly planted fruit trees and had to dig deep into the root ball to get them out.
One easy thing you could plant under new trees are ordinary raw peanuts, not to eat because you have to dig them out but just as a ground cover they like sandy soil and they should generate some nitrogen. I've had some last a year plus. Plant a shelled peeanut every six inches and cover with some mulch they can push through very easily.
