The Tropical Fruit Forum

It's a mountain papaya, presumly the mist cold hardy. But to my experiments they are similar in cold hardiness to other specimens from Peru and Ecuador.
It was introduced to that region.

Leave the plant alone it will sort out how many fruits it will set. I read several studies made in China and most ruled out PT as a rootstock for Honey Pomelo.
There is only one way to find out if it's incompatible to FD.
In Southern Thailand they don't use any rootstock for pomelo. They use air-layering. It's vary easy to do it in summer. Then you will see which grows faster and fruits better. I put my bets on air-layered plant.

It's being raining here everyday heavily for the past two weeks. None of my citrus lost even a leaf. They are all doing great soaked in water. As long as the temperature is over 18 C they will do just fine.

Millet is right about the root problems, but I see them start with autumn cold rain, not now.

As far as the blooms go, only about 1 to 1.5 percent of them will produce fruit.  Most blooms will eventually die on their own, or will set fruitlets, which will mostly drop (called June drop).  Research by Perdue University shows that one fruit left of a very small tree will not hurt the tree.  As to the leaf fall, I would ask two questions:  (1) how long has the tree been growing in that container without being transplanted, and (2) what is the blend of the growing medium that the tree is planted in?  Among the primary  reasons for leaf fall is a lack of soil air, and or a high level of soil CO2, both caused by soil compaction

Millet, FD takes loamy soil and occasional floods very well, even with the lowest oxygen availability it can survive for a couple of weeks.
It's clear that the aerial parts don't get enough water and lose leaves.
Here I think it's a case of bad graft union. Also pomelo in general shows a lot of incombability with FD/PT

A second cause that I doubt would be a high chloride residue from water, but is this case other trees would suffer as well.

[/quote]

Do you happen to have V. weberbaueri?
[/quote]

All seeds from shops were collected in 2016, so germination is low.
I do have but not for sale for now.

Thanks for your appreciations.

Kevin: you can read this forum, it has a lot of valuable info, from soil mix, sprays, fertilization, grinding, and so on. Doing all of it, you will have healthy and blooming citrus trees.

This is my cross between Yuzu x Shiikuwasha, 3 months old seedling.
I am amazed how fast they grow compared to other seedlings, they just flush new growth continously.

I have seeds

It is much bigger than a small tree.

At 8a, do you keep it outside for winter?

The tree is 6ft tall in 14 gal container.
Winter gets down to 10F in my microclimate and 0F outside the city, so no I keep it in cold until freezing and then in basement for a couple of months.
They bloom in May and fruit is ready in November before frost. The summer is very hot so they have time to ripen.

Use garden sulphur to lower ph long term.  Espoma is the most common brand

In pot culture will not work, use phosphoric acid instead.

They require a cold period try to leave them outside in December until the hard freezing of January, a month is enough.
PS: pump some N

It all depends on the branch type to flower.
I grafted them on edulis seedling and they overwintered just fine at very lower temps. Mine in ground outside took small freezing very easily, until a hard froze came -7C and died. Normal -2C in the night and 8C in the day they do just fine.
Another problem in out climates is that is too hot to produce flower, they prefer cool weather. At 35C+ here during the summer they will not bloom.
Why you don't try to grow maypop I find them good tasting and easy to grow.

Quote from: mangoba on May 28, 2021, 03:21:23 PM

Quote from: John B on May 28, 2021, 12:40:28 PM

Thank you both for your insights. Yes, this is about adding a dedicated micronutrient regiment. I thought that chelated micronutrients were superior to regular micros due to the added protection in the soil. Of course, I could be completely wrong as well!

I think the pH of the water that gets added will make the difference.

How do you mean? Our water is pretty terrible. 7.4-7.8 PH. My soil PH is usually around 7.2-7.4

Use rain water or bring down the pH when formulating sprays