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Messages - Plantinyum

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As u describe it, the problem may have been too much water. U say the soil felt like modeling clay which i think is not good.
Now as u have repotted it, keep it at a shady place up untill u see some new growth, then introduce it to more sun. Thats what i would do with any plant in this condition.
Also be carefull to not overwater, as this may have been the problem in the first place.

Coffee and carambolla are also shade lovers for me.

I would suggest monstera deliciosa, i havent tried the fruit but i havent read a bad reviel on it yet. The plant is shade loving and will climb trees and looks verry decorative also.
Another one could be salak as suggested above.
Not a fruit, but vanilla vines could also do well but you'll have a hard time harvesting the pods from the trees canopy .....

Not fammiliar with your climate ,desease pressure and so on, my votes would be cherimoya, dragonfruit, pomello, tamarillo, guava....  be sure to plant the better varieties of those. ..

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A watermellon question.....
« on: June 24, 2022, 02:05:09 AM »
Watermelon vines are highly prone to viruses, bacterial and fungal diseases. If youíve grown Tomatoes, papaya, cucumbers or other plants susceptible to fungal diseases, you probably have a high bioburden which can infect your melon vines.

Looking at your picture, I would say that when your plant was smaller, you may have overwatered your plant. It appears, from the above ground vines and leaf size, that the roots may be weak and have not filled your pot. This often happens when the root zone is over saturated with water causing anaerobic conditions which are not conducive to root growth. The anaerobic conditions creates a good growing environment for the bad organisms.

To remedy this, be sure to start with good clean soil and preferably a watermelon variety that is disease resistant. Watermelon vines hate having their roots disturbed and they hate being transplanted but Iíve found that itís best to start them off in smallish containers like a #1 container and let them completely fill the pot with roots before carefully transplanting them into their final container.

By doing it this way, you can control the soil moisture more easily and get your seedling in a strong healthy state before putting it into its final big pot. The roots should completely fill the #1 container before transplanting and this will ensure that it will have ample root mass to rapidly grow into the bigger container. Your plant should be given full sun and the shade from your nearby plants will slow down the growth of your vines. Once you transplant into the bigger container, water it thoroughly but let the soil dry out in between watering so the roots will spread out in search of water.

thanks for the detailed advice Simon, i'll remember those tips next year when i try yet again to mess with watermelon.
As for the present plants, i did just that, grew them for around 2 weeks, uppotting them 2 times in the time frame,  each time they had filled the pots with roots and were drying fast. When i planted them in the grow bags they had extensive root sistems and the pots were full with healthy roots.
Well yesterday i pulled them out since i had enough of their misery,  the roots were kinda dead, so u may be correct with the over watered theory, the soil was never watterlogged thought, at most it was just moist, and at times seemed to be dry on the surface.
Yes ive grown tomatoes ,canteloupe, papaya and other solanum and cucurbit familly plants, peppers also, so thats my logic of having a virulent desease that targeted them.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A watermellon question.....
« on: June 21, 2022, 01:47:56 AM »
Well i planted them a week ago, all of them are willting and dying , i quit watermellons for good !!!

It looks too shaded.

Heres a volunteer melon that came up in our front yard.  Its setting fruit now.

no i think its not the shade, shade doesnt make plants collapse in a few days, they just grow elongated and streched, there must be something else, they get 5-6 hours direct sun at this spot , right now all of them are willted i'll just pull them out in a few days and not bother with them here.
I may plant next summer, but at my other place where they will be directly on the ground in full sun all day, they wont be getting too much attention there though....
I think i have too much desease pressure going on here, i constantly reuse soil and had regularly planted the same or related species at the same places, so i just need a fresh start for the melons i,m sure.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A watermellon question.....
« on: June 20, 2022, 04:26:27 AM »
Well i planted them a week ago, all of them are willting and dying , i quit watermellons for good !!!

Frangula caroliniana or Frangula alnus?
To me it looks like the first one, the flowers on the plants i saw were the same, just not in such big clumps like in the net pics of caroliniana.
So it could be poisonous ?
I'll look out for the berries ,if it sets any and will update the post, but it sure looks like frangula caroliniana after i checked it, thanks !!

A neighbour had some Myrtus communis shrubs in the front yard. I'm guessing they were seedlings as the fruit on different plants were slightly variable to taste and colour.
Just slightly different flavours. I thought one was the best of the lot.
There are a bunch of wild Australian native Myrtus and relatives I have tried.
Here's one of them
If you are ok with wild fruit, I would rate Myrtus communist as quite pleasant, and very productive.
thanks, i may go for it and buy a plant.....

How's  that for a potted plant, a real heavy bloom

 First time seeing bees on the flowers...

Thanks for replying! So hopefully theyíll complain about the heat but not die, good to know. As for your issue with lack of flowers, I obviously have no experience with this species but Iíve heard some places that fertilizers with too much nitrogen can cause them to grow really well but not flower, so if you havenít looked into that already it might be a good lead, best of luck!
Yes i am also thinking of not ferilizing it at all since its such a fast grower, this may be the problem....good luck to u also with the species !

I am not sure

I guess you can rule some things out

Also it has a lot of poke a dots on tree bark or

lenticels on tree bark

Have you ever saw this site
it shows you to look at key features
Yes i also saw this feature on the bark, thats why i took a pic since i thought it will be of help for the id , i'll chek che site later....

Anyone recognize this species ?? The flowers are are grouped in the base of the leaves. Its growing now as a bush since it has been cut down in the past, so the true nature of it may be a little more tree like. 

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Almond bark desease ?
« on: June 14, 2022, 01:40:51 AM »
It looks like it, after some research ,the chances are not on my tree's side. I'll try to cut off the infected parts completely and use a copper fungicide, web sais it helps sometimes. I just have to wait a little since were in a non stop rain for a week....
Bad news is i see similar sap oozing directly on the graft parts of the varieties i top worked the tree with , a year ago. ..nasty stuff indeed...

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Almond bark desease ?
« on: June 13, 2022, 02:33:08 PM »

This has been going on for a few months, right under the bark there are liguid "baloons" forming, full with resin, when i burst them underneath the whole bark layer is dead. I made some severe cuts and removed most of the infected parts and sprayed with fungicide, but its persisting at the same places and i think is slightly expanding.
What could this be and how to treat it ?
Ive had a similar thing, prolly the same desease happen to my cherry a year ago, whatever it is, it seems to be targetting stonefruit species...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Myrtus communis fruit taste reviews?
« on: June 13, 2022, 12:35:38 PM »
Found this species available and i'm wondering if i should buy one plant. That will depend on the reviels of the fruit though, is it ok for fresh consumption, or is it just used as a spice ?
Taste ??
Thanks !

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Ants on lemon flowers
« on: June 13, 2022, 11:49:43 AM »
Ants are not pollinators (Except for a very few rare cases), and actually have compounds that will kill plant pollen. If the fruit are already set, I don't think there should be much issue though on their own (until the aphids come)
Thanks , i really hope they do not try to cultivate aphids. I think there is an established colony somewhere in the gh, i knew this would happen eventually....
The blooming is at its peak  right now, i'll monitor and if they start to damage something i'll have to spray the plant with something against them.. if there is such a thing.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Ants on lemon flowers
« on: June 13, 2022, 02:44:03 AM »
 I planted one of my lemons in my greenhouse two days ago. Today i saw that there are ants on the open flowers, are they a risk for the lemon embrios ,or are they just atracted to the nectar. No aphids on the plant, they were only on the open flowers... i am worried for them to not get mad or smt and start to nibble at the lemon's tiny fruit set.

I would just cover the barrels with nylon, make sure to have them filled up to the rim so when the nylon touches the later i doesnt leave a air pocket, no new ones will be able to lay eggs, and the ones that are awready inside, well lite a candle for them....

Heres what i did, pruned a little , left the two top leaves an the branches and removed 2-3 leaves, i will wait 3 days and will remove 2- 3 more on each branch. I left all of the leaves on all of the verry thin branches, so that i do not force the plants into some kind of shock, dunno.....
Here are both of them ...
The first one has some flower buds that are surely taking their time,  growing very slowly .
The fish tail leaf was present on this plant, a neat look...

Here is the second one

 Trunks are getting fatty on both of them ,as seen in the pic.
All of the prunings were fed back to the plants.

Thanks Oolie, i already removed the smallest of branches two days ago, the ones that were like a toothpick thick. I want to prune the remaining ones a little since they are kinda leggy now.
If you say there isn't a bennefit to the spaced out deffoliation i will not do it then. I will do what you said, to strip the top leaves first, and after several days /2 do the rest, following the logic of having male ones bloom further away on the branches.
The one plant that has buds on now , has them in a double manner mostly, one is bigger then the other...

So i want to try this and i'm still at the right time of the year to do it. My cherymoyas are growing mad and one of them has some flower buds growing atm also.
Found some relic treads on this in here ,but one thing i wonder is.....  after i trim a little the new growth , can i strip the lowest several leaves and not the top ones? I want to do this as a size measure, to have the new branches at the lowest possible point of the stems, but still have a top part with some leaves so i do not set back my plants as much ,by removing all of their leaves. Now i will pass the very first verry small leaves that all of the new growth has ,directly at the base.
Will the remaining leaves at the top section prevent the exposed lowet buds to grow properly ??
Also, do i need to do this in waves, i mean to do several branches today, some more two days later etc etc, becouse ive found that when flowers show up at the same time, they also bloom at the same time, making it hard to have both gender stage flowers pressent at a given time....??
Thanks for helping me !!!  ;) :D

Citrus General Discussion / Re: leaves cupping / curling
« on: June 09, 2022, 05:08:00 AM »
Its not an avocado, i bet my ass on that ! Def a citrus of some sort.

This time of the year we tend to have too much rain, when it comes to potted plants. My persimmons and lemons are eather having some kind of protection directly over the pot , or just drought under the roof of the yard's chill out place.

Anyone doing this to prevent the plants from getting boggy ? Soil type will also be a magor factor and my soil in those pots is not quite as fast draining or just holds a little too much moisture.
I'm starting to use sand in my potting mix, helps alot with drainage....

I guess u could say its an iffy plant hahah.... it does well for me here in a gh right in the ground, grows like a weed but has yet to flower, i butchered the hell out of it two days ago, so no flowers for me till i die probably . Seems to like a little bit of shade, but the leaves do get  kind of distorted in summer, i have always wondered for the couse of it and it again started to happen now that were having some hot temps. This may be a clue that it really doesnt like hot temperatures, infact ive read here and elsewhere that this is a fact. 
Mine has endured the lowest temp of 2 C , half of winter the night temps were from 5 to 10 C so i quess i would classify it as a subtropical plant , even thought its generally claimed to be a true tropical i think.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: June 08, 2022, 01:11:59 PM »
I know itís not our season over here in Oz, but itís been a while since I scrolled through all the posts. Had a solid season here in South east Queensland with great weather and plenty of rain. Unfortunately the rain kept coming and weíve had nearly 2 years worth of rain since Christmas.
Plenty of fruit as a result but the parrots have acquired a taste for them and as a result, we lost probably 95% of our crop, with the birds eating most fruits before they ripened.
We did have a couple of wins though with some very impressive hybrids.

Those really look supperior! I really like the vivid colours some/most dragon fruits have ...

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