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Looking for purple-red and yellow grumichama seeds or seedlings.
PM me if you are selling.
Thanks,
Al
I don't think you can get rid of them, rather use the Anti Bird Netting protect your Fruits. I love all the birds around my tree, they take care of the insects for me.
I bought a 5 gallon NDM from a local nursery. I am not sure of the root stock. It looked terrible after few weeks. I thought it is going to die. After much reading from this forum, I took the risk on the $85 NDM by removing all of the soil and rinse the root. I then re-potted with with 1/3 sand, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 perlite with some charcoal and organic fertilizer. For months, it does not do anything. I thought I am kissing my $$ goodbye. However, in the last two weeks, the NDM give 3 new growth with about 6" each.
I strongly believe the combined knowledge of the members on this forum is incredible. I will try to replace peat moss with pumice next repotting adventurer.
I live near mimosa and champa nursery and I am looking for a hybrid red jaboticaba or any jaboticaba that will start fruiting earlier. I do not want a sabara variety since I want one that will start fruiting earlier and I can keep a compact size and still give fruit. If I go to mimosa to pick out a tree how can I tell if its a hybrid red or a sabara variety? The people that work there are usually not very helpful.
Check with forum member Adam at Flying Fox Fruits. That's where I
bought mine.
Same here, they grow super slow so make sure you get decent size and as old as you can afford it to be.
Can anyone chime in if chunky perlite or stone will serve the same purpose as pumice? I can't seem to find a good source locally.
Benefit of using pumice is that it can hold moisture out of the three while providing other benefits. Perlite will provide aeration, will help to reduce compaction but it tends to float up due to its weight. I am guessing rocks will provide some aeration and will help to reduce compaction as well. Pumice will definitely help during our 100+F days by retaining moisture, but will never degrade or create anaerobic condition. I stocked up on pumice for $9/50 lb bag in the past from zenhydro.
Without a doubt, White Sapote and Loquat.
If you store the scion and root stock in the same room, you may return to find out you already have a take.
Hey, everyone. I was wondering if you had any thoughts on PlantOGram. I purchased 2 mango trees from them. It was shipped on Apr. 30 and arrived on May 7. Sadly the box arrived in poor condition with a large dent, and the trees came damaged with the trunks broken on both trees, and fallen leaves in the box. I took photos and emailed PlantOGram that same day to let them know. I sent a follow up email yesterday, but I haven't heard back in about a week. Any thoughts on what you would do? I'll try to baby these trees, but I'm afraid they may not make it. I checked out the roots, and there's a rotting smell coming from the soil. Should I change the soil? Pretty bummed, but I guess lesson learned.
I used a little trick Adam Shafran mentioned one time.
I planted the seeds from my "Black Star" mother plant... and then grafted fresh "Black Star" scions onto those seedlings.
I guess the idea is that they should have maximum compatibility for grafting.
I'm still creating more duds than takes... but at least some are working out OK.
Kevin Jones
I have a bunch of Agri-Fos/Garden-Fos - phosphorous acid used to treat phytopthera in citrus. What about this?
I did a similar thing with my "Black Star".
So far... I seem to be striking around a 30% success rate.
Kevin Jones
This is the property I live on, which is at 2200' in Santa Barbara, CA. It is almost always sunny, even during the June gloom, May grey, Fogust that SB gets, so the hours of sunlight my plants receive is pretty ludicrous. It was 80f in SB today, and cranked up to 93f today. We will see several 110+ days this year, so I would say this is indeed more central valley than it is SB Coast. In the winter, it went down to a recorded 26f. Luckily I have a nice micro climate inside the oaks, so when my neighbors are watching things die, my little slice is doing a bit better just a couple hundred feet away they'll be 10F lower!That climate does certainly sound more like the valley than it does the coast. I always got a bit depressed that sb was so gloomy throughout the year. It’s nice that you get that sweet sunshine but can easily head to town for some cool weather if need be.
This area is where I put all my most sensitive plants that can take the heat and sun. It is 10f hotter here, even in the winter. Mangoes, dragonfruits, sapotes, and eugenia area. Especially helpful for seedlings. I ran a frost cloth over top of all the dragonfruits and had string lights in it which kept everything toasty all winter long. No damage or deaths here.
This lower area is the next best for sun and heat, and I yank stuff over below the deck if it's looking really cold. Plums, cherimoyas, pluots, atemoya, guava, pitanga / strawberry combo pot, vanilla ice cream bean, black sapote, raspberry, caviar lime and panache fig
This is the area where I have more sensitive plants and those that don't need a lot of sun. I have a very large sabara jaboticaba that seems to be ready to fruit this year, two grumichamas, cherry of the rio grande, 7 blueberries, a lychee, gooseberries, and a whole lot of seedlings.
Everything is in pots mostly... Since the house isn't mine and I'm just a tenant. Luckily the well water is good stuff!
I was actually looking at some cheap property in the hills of Santa Barbara, something like 200-300k for a couple acres but it was teeming with red tape. There is some good spots up there.
