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Messages - K-Rimes

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1526
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Planting bags
« on: May 23, 2021, 04:40:42 PM »
Fabric ones are ok. I used them a lot a year ago. They're better for plants that you're gonna throw out annually like tomatoes or whatever. They are not a great solution for long term use and will fall apart in the sun pretty quickly (if you move them anyways). I have some big jabos and stuff in them and wish they were in plastic now.

1527
The gopher has filled the tunnel and pushed dirt into the trap twice now, without getting caught.  >:( >:( >:(


At least I know he's there. I just reset it for the 3rd time.

Use at least two traps. Use something pointy and small like a plant take around the hole and find where the tunnel goes, then dig about a foot between the fresh hole and the tunnel - put a trap on either side of the hole facing out and really get it in there, I try to get it at least 6" into the holes, then stuff the hole with fresh grass or foliage of whatever is around.

You'll get more that way.

I did get one this year with a gopher hawk trap but I think it wast just chance it walked down the tunnel the hawk was set in. I have more luck with the regular traps by far.

1528
They root pretty easily. I think it'll come back.

I've resorted to basketing everything and trapping the gophers after some losses like this (I'm at #5 this year and the in ground stuff is doing great).

1529
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hunt for the best Surinam Cherry
« on: May 23, 2021, 12:13:51 AM »
found a ripe big leaf today.  the fruitfool was here and we were looking around and spotted it and we both tried it.  was really good.



Wow, that's awesome size.

1530
My Pakistani easily got up to 80ft.... cut it back by 2/3 this winter... trying for a more manageable size...

Kevin

I think they make these things called chainsaws.

Sheeeesh though that's crazy. 80ft is too much! You must get fruit literally raining on you for weeks.

1531
I have greatly reduced aphid infestations by only applying high N fertilizer early in the season and most importantly stacking the yard with tons of wild flowers, especially milkweed. They absolutely destroy that stuff and leave all my fruit trees alone now. It also is great cause my gf can gather beautiful bouquets of wild flowers. Wins all around.

I think it's much easier to rely on nature to balance this stuff out rather than try to fight it systemically plant by plant.

1532
My thoughts are that the shorter the duration was from Ken's place to the pot they live in now, the higher likelihood they are to thrive. Simon also is evidently the SoCal king of roots / plants, so, there is also that. I have hopes mine will survive. I am at least fairly certain the rootstocks will all survive.

1533
Brad, if you have any photos from your Red Himalayan can you post one here, my grafts just aren't getting much normal size fruits yet.

Fygee, you will also want to add the Black Pakistan, very sweet. I have the Persian mulberry grafted now but will not have fruits until next year.

For sure. Question is, is it one where the tree gets huge or does it stay fairly compact with trimming? My space is starting to get limited.

Himalayan grows just as fast as Pakistani, imo. It looks basically identical foliage and all. I just put my Pakistani on "dwarf" rootstock in the ground. It was 6' last year and 10' this year so yeah, not really dwarf at all if you ask me.

1534
All of my trees are still showing green wood including my two dongkui but they look pretty much the same as i got them. Only one of my  An Hai is showing green buds. I just moved them to 75% shade from full shade and hoping to see a little spark.

Mine are all about the same, minus the chopping of dying scion back smaller and smaller. My AnHai is in the best shape so far. I moved Biqi and Dongkui indoors onto a heat mat and I think the Dongkui is finally about to pop out a bud. AnHai and black peak are still in the greenhouse in the shadiest area and not really doing anything. None of them are, but at least they aren't dead. I'm really tempted to give them a light liquid N and micronutrient fert... But will hold off some more.

1535
All my himalayan fruits came out super skinny on the grafts this year then dried up. I think mulberries hate being in pots so I slapped that sucker in a gopher basket and into the ground.

1536
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hunt for the best Surinam Cherry
« on: May 20, 2021, 05:49:53 PM »
Great thread!  I learned quite a bit reading it.

I'm new to the forum.  I got some Zill Dark Pitanga scions from a forum member here and I grafted them onto a seedling Surinam Cherry I got from Exotica Nursery in Vista.  It seems like the grafts have taken!  Anyone growing the Zill Dark here in SoCal?  I too am interested in the production, taste, etc.
Thanks

I have Zill's grafted onto Exotica seedlings as well. I'd been holding out hope that they will produce naturally but got impatient and put some of my vermillion on, and tacked a few Zill's on. I think they may fruit next year (Zill's).

1537
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hunt for the best Surinam Cherry
« on: May 20, 2021, 04:54:03 PM »


K-Rimes, thanks for the update. Are you sure you have Vermillion and not a Vermillion seedling? I’ve eaten a lot of Vermilion fruit from Leo Manuel’s in ground tree and his fruit are quite large and very delicious. Vermillion is so far the best tasting Red fruit I’ve had.

Simon
[/quote]

It has a pretty ugly graft union and was from Papaya Tree Nursery sold to me as grafted vermillion, so, one can assume? I think my nutrition was off last year and nonetheless it produced a lot of fruit, but lacked what it needed to get big. I also have found keeping the roots dry during flowering promotes fruit sets, but perhaps at the expense of overall fruit size.

I expected this to be true of all eugenia, but after experimenting this year is definitely not applicable to grumichama. The slightest bit of dry soil and the peduncle dries up. I am not getting fruit sets to hold on my pitangatuba wet or dry. CORG and calcycina seem to like the dry treatment.

1538
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hunt for the best Surinam Cherry
« on: May 20, 2021, 04:10:28 PM »
If anyone does do any air layering or roots cuttings, I'd like to try growing the high quality varieties here.

I have a friend with a big tree, but the quality of the fruit is lacking. Not sure what variety it is.

I'm experimenting with rooting jaboticaba and pitomba cuttings which should be more challenging than pitanga.

Also, of note, the native name in Tupi (the brazilian native language) is pitanga* and I much prefer referring to it that way. Does anyone know how it became known as Surinam? Seems disingenuous.

1539
Do they soften on the plant or how to know when to pick and eat?

I pick them when they're kinda yellowish. The outside shouldn't be super mushy, but if you push your thumb into it should kind of give way. You can leave them on the counter to ripen up for a little bit if picked green as well.

I've found they're pretty good either way. Over ripe is like an over ripe melon and can get kinda starchy but still palatable, under ripe is like a cucumber.

Before I didn't eat the skin but now I just chow it, don't even notice it.

1540
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hunt for the best Surinam Cherry
« on: May 20, 2021, 12:15:54 PM »
This year I really changed up my fertilization regimen on my surinams which didn't produce much (other than my grafted vermillion which was INCREDIBLE for production and quality) and what I am finding really interesting is that the leaf thickness is substantially improved by switching to high P fertilizers. Last year the leaves were very thin and delicate when using lots of N, but I also feel that's why they didn't produce - nutrients I used were all high N slow release.

My trees all fully defoliate in the winter so they are still building out a new coat of leaves, but are doing so rapidly now. Here in 9b they miss the first fruiting period (it flowers when there's still risk of frost and there are no leaves to protect the delicate flowers). I'm really wanting to extend my greenhouse and pack all of them inside it for the winter so this doesn't happen next year.

My grafted vermillion does not produce large fruit, but it makes a ton of them that are sweet but not overwhelmingly so. My black star produces noticeably larger and sweeter fruits, but hardly holds onto any of them or flowers much at all. I've been grafting a lot of the vermillion onto my other plants because it's so much better for production and also added several Zill's grafts this year but have not had any fruit from them. Of note, the Zill's leaves are super thick. My suspicion is that leaf thickness may have something to do with fruit quality and size?

This was an average day in late October. I was getting 10-20 fruit a day from just one 4' plant that's pretty scraggly. I look forward to this year when it builds a better canopy - I up potted from 15 gallon to 25 gallon.



1541
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Blueberry Pollinator
« on: May 19, 2021, 12:47:05 PM »
My plants are going into a raised planter filled with a mix of topsoil, soil acidifier and pine bark nuggets. Because I have "city punch" for water I add an ounce or two of white vinegar to every other watering from a 2 gallon can. So far the vinegar/water mix has kept the foliage green and growing pretty strong.

Can someone recommend a fertilizer brand that will help keep the PH low?

I found vinegar extremely weak and honestly a pain compared to a few ml in a pipette. I needed at least 3/4 cup to get 2 gallons down to appropriate levels!

1542
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Blueberry Pollinator
« on: May 19, 2021, 12:11:48 PM »
You also need to make sure you have the proper PH soil for Blueberries.  They like a lower PH (~4.5) than most soils so you'll likely need to add sulfur and use a fertilizer for acid-loving plants.  Because of this, I keep my Blueberries in containers where it's easier to control PH.

It took me a long time to dial in blueberries PH wise. I use 5ml of extremely strong phosphoric acid per 2.5 gallon watering can.
I wonder if I should buy this too, just found a supplier for it. It says its a 85% concentrate. Will pass it for now since I added sulfur two months ago....

Depends on your water PH. Mine is extremely alkaline at 8.3ph so I use the phosphoric acid every time I water AND top dress with sulfur. It's really hard to get blueberries right when your water is like mine.

1543
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Blueberry Pollinator
« on: May 19, 2021, 11:13:47 AM »
You also need to make sure you have the proper PH soil for Blueberries.  They like a lower PH (~4.5) than most soils so you'll likely need to add sulfur and use a fertilizer for acid-loving plants.  Because of this, I keep my Blueberries in containers where it's easier to control PH.

It took me a long time to dial in blueberries PH wise. I use 5ml of extremely strong phosphoric acid per 2.5 gallon watering can.

1544
Its making fruit but none have ripened yet.  Should be soon, you can't really tell but its full of fruit inside.



They're awesome. You'll enjoy

1545
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: San Diego garden photos
« on: May 18, 2021, 04:13:00 PM »
Definitely time for some updates. Even a year or two ago when I rolled through the orchard was way more stuffed! Some side by side comparisons would be really cool. The cherimoya especially are mind blowingly bigger from 2018-2019 or 2020 whenever I came by last.

1546
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Blueberry Pollinator
« on: May 18, 2021, 04:10:28 PM »
Most blueberries need cross pollination. It doesn't need to be the same type. I see bees hitting mine hard usually and they fly from bush to bush. I have 7 plants and get awesome fruit set.

1547
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What % shade cloth is recommended ?
« on: May 18, 2021, 12:47:28 PM »
I put 50% white shade cloth over my greenhouse and it seems to be working well. The plants grow the same or better. I'm at 2200' elevation 9b, so basically inland style California temps and stuff definitely gets burnt on those 100f days.

I don't have issues with annona in blasting sun, so, I dunno what to say - but all my eugenias and jaboticabas seem to appreciate the shade quite a bit.

1548
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado starter fertilizer
« on: May 17, 2021, 01:44:01 PM »
Kevin, I got 30 chickens and use the litter in the coop for fertilizer too.  I'm trying to get away from paying for bagged products.  But I'm not there yet.  The grow power fertilizer I e been using has 40% humidity acid.  It seems like good stuff, its just a bit hot so I wait until the trees get going to use that.  And its expensive so I'm trying to phase it out and just use chicken poop and Mexican sunflower and mulch only but its still only a goal to reach that point.

Yeah, I feel you on that. I bought a truckload of redwood compost recently and that's been working pretty well as a top dress on the in ground stuff... Then I chipped 5000lb of oak and that's been a bitch to move around by wheelbarrow but it's slowly getting distributed. I liked what you had going with your thick mulch piles around the trees.

If I had chickens, that would be awesome for a source - but I know you have a ton of stuff out there in the orchard and 30 chickens still wouldn't make a dent.

I have been having some luck with vigoro avo citrus, 30lb bag for $10 at Home Depot ain't too bad and the pellets seem to fully dissolve.

1549
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado starter fertilizer
« on: May 17, 2021, 01:08:19 PM »
Also re: mycorrizhae I used to buy lots of the mykos brand stuff and I didn't really notice any improvement so I stopped buying it. When I make soil mixes I throw some ProMix BX in it which apparently has mycorrizhae and call it a day now.

1550
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado starter fertilizer
« on: May 17, 2021, 12:59:03 PM »
what about using a scoop of ash on each plant.  Is there any reason not to?  I have lots of ash piles from where I burned all the brush.  I know it is PH alkaline but a small amount top dressed maybe ok?

I tried ash on some plants to try to stimulate flowering, various amounts. They were all eugenias and jaboticabas and stuff which like acidic conditions. They all suffered immediately and I had to dig it out by hand. If you're using ash, use very little in my opinion. I dunno if it was cause it was oak ash (which is highly alkaline) or something? I won't do it again. It was also from my wood burning stove which incinerates more than it does leave "bio-char" with chunky bits of charcoal or something.

The best stuff I've used of late is the Down to Earth humic acids, langbenite, azomite etc. It makes an immediate noticeable improvement in any plant I put it on, the humic acid especially and it's really cheap at Greencoast Hydroponic stores ($9 for 5lb). There was a study I was reading about Humic acids where they increased the yield of peanuts by 87%. I bought a bunch after reading it and yeah, everything loves it. Blueberries - sapotes - jabos - eugenias - dragonfruit whatever. It apparently allows the plant to better absorb nutrients and I would say the proof is in the pudding for me.

I hear you on osmocote plastic bbs. I think they are bio-degradable like some airsoft bbs are but it will probably take a decade or something. It's kind of an eyesore.

The fertilizer I keep coming back to is regular old chicken manure from Home Depot (the yellow Lowe's bags are not as good as the Home Depot red bags) which have pine mulch mixed with chicken manure. It helps retain water as a mulch, it acidifies as it's pine, and it has good supply of N - then I top the manure with whatever fertilizer I have around and it seems to chelate or bond to the mulch and then slow dose. Hard to beat honestly.

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