Mango Pests, Diseases, and Nutritional Problems

[pineflatwoods]

I'm seeing a bunch of leafhoppers this year- is it worth using horticultural oil? I have many trees

[Swampsquash]

I've been fighting this fight for a while.  Any ideas?  I've sprayed fungicides (copper and sulfer when cooler), pesticide (neem, soap, azadachtrin, Spinosad).  Can't seem to find a solution.  Any ideas?

I had the local state nursery inspector come out and do some samples to send to Gainesville for analysis.

Turns out I'm getting hammered by citrus root wevils. 

[hewholooks]

Wow! I never would have seen that coming.

I've been fighting this fight for a while.  Any ideas?  I've sprayed fungicides (copper and sulfer when cooler), pesticide (neem, soap, azadachtrin, Spinosad).  Can't seem to find a solution.  Any ideas?

I had the local state nursery inspector come out and do some samples to send to Gainesville for analysis.

Turns out I'm getting hammered by citrus root wevils.

[Swampsquash]

Yah neither did I lol.  Also with some anthracnose sprinkled on top lol

[hewholooks]

Well, it's just your lucky day.  But seriously, what are you gonna do now?

Yah neither did I lol.  Also with some anthracnose sprinkled on top lol

[Swampsquash]

Duplicate

[Swampsquash]

Well, I've done alot of reading and there aren't great solutions.

Basically they(UF) recommend you spray the plant with something like sevin (carbaryl) twice, two week apart.  Then do a soil drench with an Imidacloprid or Bifenthrin. 

And then I guess a bunch of copper spray to rein in the anthracnose.

So I don't know yet, I really don't want to spray all that stuff, but I also don't want to lose all my mango trees.

I will start to prune them all and then decide.  I haven't seen any of the root weevils on the trees at all.

I have some abandoned citrus groves nearby, I wonder if thats why they showed up

[Calusa]

Basically they(UF) recommend you spray the plant with something like sevin (carbaryl) twice, two week apart.  Then do a soil drench with an Imidacloprid or Bifenthrin. 

If it ever gets to the point that I have to apply systemic insecticide to control insects on any of my fruit trees I'll chop them down and focus on another one of my hobbies. My .02

[Swampsquash]

Basically they(UF) recommend you spray the plant with something like sevin (carbaryl) twice, two week apart.  Then do a soil drench with an Imidacloprid or Bifenthrin. 

If it ever gets to the point that I have to apply systemic insecticide to control insects on any of my fruit trees I'll chop them down and focus on another one of my hobbies. My .02

Well it's def not something I want to do but I also have quite the investment in my trees (time and money). So that makes it a bit tricky for me at least.

[Cookie Monster]

Isn't imidacloprid just synthetic nicotine? There is / was a commercial avocado grower on the forum who sent his fruit off to a lab to look for presence of systemic pesticides and none was found. He theorized that the peduncle filtered out the pesticide if memory serves.

Basically they(UF) recommend you spray the plant with something like sevin (carbaryl) twice, two week apart.  Then do a soil drench with an Imidacloprid or Bifenthrin. 

If it ever gets to the point that I have to apply systemic insecticide to control insects on any of my fruit trees I'll chop them down and focus on another one of my hobbies. My .02

[EddieF]

i'd try weak 1/4 or 1/2oz gallon bifenthrin drench.  spray too.  i have sri lanka weavils to deal with soon.
if you don't eat fruit for 1yr i say ok.  rain here certainly rinses away everythng we use over time.
3yrs without synthetic ferts i believe is certified organic.
imagine whats used on what people eat every day imported.
just my opinion.

[Calusa]

Isn't imidacloprid just synthetic nicotine? There is / was a commercial avocado grower on the forum who sent his fruit off to a lab to look for presence of systemic pesticides and none was found. He theorized that the peduncle filtered out the pesticide if memory serves.

Basically they(UF) recommend you spray the plant with something like sevin (carbaryl) twice, two week apart.  Then do a soil drench with an Imidacloprid or Bifenthrin. 

If it ever gets to the point that I have to apply systemic insecticide to control insects on any of my fruit trees I'll chop them down and focus on another one of my hobbies. My .02

I found that thread but the poster CTMIAMI (Carlos) tested Tilt (prociconazole).
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=2219.0

Another thread on imidacloprid.
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3067.0

Thankfully my fruit trees have been mostly insect-free. Just a little scale on one of my mango trees, and my citrus trees are covered in psyllid screen tents, so they are pretty much safe from insects.

[Galatians522]

Beneficial nematodes might be an option for dealing with root weevils. Heterorhabditis or Steinernema spp. are the ones recommended by UCANR. The nematodes attack the weevils and eat them. I am amazed that the extension agent didn't mention this. I have a friend who was selling them to local citrus grove owners, but his packs were designed for 10 acre blocks. He showed me some citrus stumps that had been dug up showing where the damage had started to heal after application of the nematodes. I would try an internet search for one or both of the nematode species above and see if there is a homeowner level supplier.

[Cookie Monster]

Thank you for digging that up.

I found that thread but the poster CTMIAMI (Carlos) tested Tilt (prociconazole).
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=2219.0

Another thread on imidacloprid.
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3067.0

Thankfully my fruit trees have been mostly insect-free. Just a little scale on one of my mango trees, and my citrus trees are covered in psyllid screen tents, so they are pretty much safe from insects.

[Amel]

I got this Mango seedling from someone about 6 months ago in a 10 gallon pot, which I then planted in my backyard.

After a couple of months it started getting these spots on leaves...a month ago I put it back into a pot but it has not stopped, the browning continues

Nobody replied back but I want to give an update...a month ago I moved it for the third time out of the pot and into the ground. Didn't add any additional soil, just used what was already at the location and within 2 weeks and a lot of rain it flushed and is looking really good.

[hipasfolk]

So this mun kun si was looking pretty awful in the pot to begin with. I was hoping it'd bounce back after going in ground but yesterday it dropped almost all leaves at once but also seems to be trying to Flower Anything I can do to help it?

I took everyone's advice and held off kelp foliar. Gave it a little slow release fertilizer from the Manatee Rare Fruit Council back in May and kept it watered as best as I could through the drought and here she is today.

[Calusa]

You did well! Looks very healthy.

[Orkine]

Mango from one particular tree in my yard have a problem with the fruit.  When cut open, there are inclusions in the flesh that are discolored and look bad.  They occur from near the skin to about midway to the seed.
There are no blemish on the skin suggesting an insect bite or some kind of rot.
I have no idea what this is.  My best guess is insect bite, possibly early in the fruits development or by an insect that can reach a centimeter or so deep into the fruit.  I looked it up online but found nothing that is a match though there were posts about seed or pulp weevils. They did not describe my scenario. It could also be nutritional since I find it only on this one tree.  Initially past years) I found this in only one variety on a multi-graft tree, now (this year and last) it has spread to other fruits on the tree.

Has anyone observed this and what could be the cause?

[Greater Good]

Mango from one particular tree in my yard have a problem with the fruit.  When cut open, there are inclusions in the flesh that are discolored and look bad.  They occur from near the skin to about midway to the seed.
There are no blemish on the skin suggesting an insect bite or some kind of rot.
I have no idea what this is.  My best guess is insect bite, possibly early in the fruits development or by an insect that can reach a centimeter or so deep into the fruit.  I looked it up online but found nothing that is a match though there were posts about seed or pulp weevils. They did not describe my scenario. It could also be nutritional since I find it only on this one tree.  Initially past years) I found this in only one variety on a multi-graft tree, now (this year and last) it has spread to other fruits on the tree.

Has anyone observed this and what could be the cause?

Have you ruled out Calcium deficiency? Lots up sandy soil up your way.

[Orkine]

No I have not, perhaps I am due for a soil test.

I do apply gypsum (both drywall and granular) but not based on the result of a soil test.

[mbmango]

This Kent seedling has very swollen nodes.  A graft of Cac is at the top, right at the top swollen node, but itself doesn't exhibit any swollen nodes in its growth above this point.  However, the graft has been a very slow grower compared to any comparable age graft.  Was going to try regrafting scions to other trees, since this is my only surviving Cac, but wasn't sure if the tree might have something transmissible since it's been so stunted.

[FloTheSto]

Hey all,

Having this problem on a couple new flushes from my VP in the ground… had a couple ideas of what it could be (I’ve seen no thripes/aphids) and was wondering what my issue was as well as what a solution may be.











I am guessing it could be fert burn, but also with the bowing of the leaves I feel like it could be micronutrient deficiency, thoughts?

[DAC]

Does anyone have experience with using coco coir? I think I made a mistake I’m hoping I can still correct. I decided to start using some coco coir in my raised beds and most all of my potted plants. I was hoping to retain a little moisture and help with the water bill. With all of the reading I did before using the coir I failed to come across the fact that you need to buffer it. Now I am seeing nutrient deficiencies all over the place that I haven’t seen in my previously planted mangos. Currently in the coir mixed soil I have: M4 in a raised bed, M4 in a pot, Neelam in a pot, honey kiss in a raised bed and I also repotted my lime tree in a sand/coir mixture. I do have a couple of avocados in a similar mix that don’t seem to mind it - they look healthy. None of the coco coir was buffered and I think that is the cause of my newly emerging nutrient issues. Does anyone know if there’s a way to correct this without bare rooting and replanting/ repotting everything? May be worth mentioning that my raised bed trees are planted on top of native soil (Florida Keys) with the raised bed up about 12 inches or so. Hoping I can add calcium and magnesium and correct?? Any help greatly appreciated.

[Galatians522]

You could apply chelated micronutrients as a foliar spray. The liquid calcium my dad used to use did wonders for tomatoes. I don't know a particular brand, but you should be able to find something online.

[Rain]

Hello, I have a few questions. I planted this rootstock from the mango I ate. It grew tall but it doesn't look so healthy. I'm wondering what can I do it nurse it back.  Would it turn the future graft into a disease tree? Should I get rid of it and try again with new seeds?