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Messages - Plantinyum

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Some cherimoya are biannual meaning every odd years it will produce massive flowers.  If you are feeding with a bloom fertilizer and your wood is 1 year old or greater, it will produce an abundance of flowers.  My trees is a heavy producer every odd year.

Thanks! Ive read that they can be alternate bearing patterns with cherimoya, i see it as a reason for one of the plants, the one that had 50 fruit last year, really had a bumper first crop.
The other one though,  it had 2 fruits last year, this year set only 3 from an odd flowering that was in late winter ,as far as i remember. The main bloom ,which i tried to trigger was very weak and scattered, coudnt pare the flowers and didnt had fresh pollen most of the time. The plant did manage to set a few fruit, but there was a day with with very hot temps in the greenhouse and it aborted all but 2 of them.
Interesting enough,  i found the reason why i get black necrotic spots on the leaves from time to time, it was from the heat, the day after it i saw alot of fried looking spots on the leaves, which turned bark brown and didnt grew in size. They dont like temperatures above 30C .

I will feed them in advance with a bloom fertilizer, before i try to trigger a bloom , i have fed them a few times with such ferts this year, but didnt see a difference, they were with their leaves on ,so this should be preventing the buds from waking up, as usually.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 15, 2023, 03:03:12 AM »
Sorry for the late reply, here they are!
The soil looks very moist, becouse they are freshly watered.
You can see the soursops also, doing well i think.
Checked them for spider mites, did not see any with the magnifier.

Nice looking plant, congrats!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 11, 2023, 05:07:15 AM »
I have several very sad looking seedlings, that look like they might die any moment now. They are around a year old and are just about 5 -10 cm high. Leaves are light yelowwish green, they do not grow at all anymore, planted in well drained turf.
Can someone give me a hint as to what to do to make them grow? They were in the greenhouse all summer, in dapled shade, now they are inside the house ,on a south facing window.  I have 2 soursops that i started along with the uvaria's, and those although still not doing wonderfull, are growing much better that the uvaria, if that is of any value showing what the conditionds are like.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hand Pollination - passiflora decaisneana
« on: November 11, 2023, 02:00:26 AM »
Is the rind thick and edible on this species? My plant had just a few flowers, nothing set, i failed to grow caerulea and alata to flower,  to cross pollinate. Alot of flower buds aborted, plant is growing as normal.

The full tree leaf strip should come right before the tree wakes up from winter.  Around February or March here. 

But you can continue to do it through summer to get more flowers.  But this time dont strip the whole tree.  Just strip back some leaves towards the inside of the tree on big branches where a good fruit will form.

Ive never done a full leaf strip to them, i tend to remove some of the big leaves on the strong outerfacing branches, and leave the weak interior ones have their leaves on, so the plant doesnt get as shocked. I dont know if thats the right thing to do, i may do a more severe leaf strip next year.

I dont know if the biological spring for the plant is in line with our actual spring, since they are mostly consistently growing. One of them now is making a few flower buds and trying to push growth from the bases of apical leaves, without them being removed, the other tree is also growing but not as strong right now.
They do tend to get a discoloration on the leaves towards spring, but ive never had them shed their leaves alone, ive awlays had to interfere and force it, they are evergreen for me .

This article was in my files and it might interest you.

Downloaded and saved! Thank you! Judjing by the pruning done here and on other places ive seen, i am not pruning enough. I will have to do a major prune next year, the canopies are getting too bushy, i just havent had the heart to prune mine like that, seems quite severe but being greenhouse grown in a limited space, will have to do it.

Does someone else do leaf strip to cherimoya, and at which time of the season do you do it? I did once a strip in june, thats our spring here , had a strong bloom after that.

My cherimoya never sees below 53F (12C) or so and flowers like crazy
More good news! I was thinking that they need more cold to triger blooming, since thats what some articles claim.
The low percent of blooms must have been a result of the vety late leaf strip, i remember we had the strongest heat waves in this period also, so this may also have coused it.

Here in the Azores i rarely have hours below 10c and I get very good flowering on the cherimoyas.

Thank you for the feedback! The weak flowering may be due to the time i tried to promote it, i felt it was a bit late at the time. I will do the procedure around may or june next year! Will try to keep the greenhouse a bit cooler for a bit more, but not as cool as i anticipated. 

I usually do not repot any plant, guava also, until the whole root ball is filled nicely with roots. Plants when repoted, first send strong roots that try to go as deep as they can, leading to roots showing tru the drainage holes shortly after repotting. That doesnt mean that the whole soil area has been occupied,  and doesnt mean there is a need for a repot. I always take out of the pot and inspect how tight the roots have grown, if they are pretty netted i repot. Another clue that there is a need for a repot should be the soil drying too fast. The soil check obviously can be harder to do ,if your pot i very big awready.

My cherimoya trees did not flower as profusely as last year, i did a defoliation and a slight prune kinda late, at the end of july, one of them did not produce a single flower, 5h3 other one had around 20. They are big plants and did had a very strong flower flush last year, when one of them set 50 fruit, the other one had 3.
The only thing i can think of ,that was different pas winter, was that i did the heating system in the greenhouse, which ended up very eficient at keeping the lowest temp in there at around 10-15 C ,most of the time, whereas for the winter of 2021-22, i had a sloppy heating system that kept the lowest temps anywhere around 5-10C, sometimes colder. The summer after this first cold winter for the plants in the greenhouse, that is when they had the strong bloom, after a defoliation and pruning in june.

Now i do have alot of controw over the temperature in the greenhouse right now, curntly i havent yet  turned on the heating system, because of the cherymoyas, in hopes of letting them accumulate a bit of chill hours. I dont know how long should i maintain low temperatures in there, today i had 6.2C inside, i do have other more tender things in there ,thats why i wonder if the weak bloom was because i kept it too warm for them over winter, or maybe it was due to the late prune and defoliation that i did?
Anyone growing cherimoya in a tropical place, where you dont get temperatures  below 10C and are still able to fruit cherimoya?

Jaboticaba45, at least all things survived! Shows how even if you have everithyng automated, still have to keep an eye on things awlays! My fear is waking up to a crashed heating system in the gh, everithing can go away so fast, takes only 1 mistake or malfunction, at the wrong time...

Tropicaltoba, i do not aim towards spider mite resistance or enithing, i just hope i dont get them. The radiators do make microclimates close to them i suppose, but last year i did not had problems with plants suffering from the warmth from them, or had spider mite infestation. This year the canopy is dencer, so i may be more prone to an infestation, compared to last year.

Some pictures, quite bisy inside. Tropicaltoba, the radiators are on several pictures, they are on one side of the paths, a nuisance for plant management, but i'll deal with it for several months only per year. The pots are not quite visible, but around 1/3 of the plants inside are there, gust for winter.
The plastic barrew is filled with water, for watering. Its very close to the radiator, so when i turn on the heating, the water gets heated and i have warm water to water my plants with.

It's great that you want to connect it to your house's water heating system for efficiency. Bathroom radiators with tube-like designs could be a practical choice given your limited space. Although they may have a smaller water capacity, you can compensate for that by using several of them to achieve the desired heat output.
I already connected standart type radiators, the worked very well last winter. I am glad i didnt went the electricity path, the current way of heating will be far cheaper , it was a huge pain to do it, but totally worth it.

Plantinyum, are your radiators on the ground? Do you have space for a ceiling mounted heater? I’ve got infrared heaters mounted on the North wall that work very well for my greenhouse design.  They can be a bit pricey to buy/run.

, yes ,they are on the ground, i remove them in summer. Will post pictures one of theese days. I probably have the space for a ceiling heater, depending on the size of it. But i dont really need one anymore ,the current heating system is working wonderfull, with the expens only being the wood each year, but its a connection to the existing heating system of the house, so they are both fueld from one burning pit. I dont see electricity as a good option anymore, now that i have this setup.

I also have a carambola and it was sprayed several times with neem, hasnt blinked once, the 5 ml per liter dose doesnt affect it. Ive had a bad burn on my cherimoyas from neem, that was last year, i dont remember what dose i have used , but back then it burned them. This year though, i spayed them once, they havent had any sort of reaction to it, it was probably too strong back then, idk.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What is your favourite tropical fruit?
« on: October 31, 2023, 06:23:19 AM »
As of now i would have to pick cherimoya! I am a succer for tropical fruits, also love passion fruit, salak, mango, mamey etc.
Its a pitty that my cherimoyas had a shy blooming cycle this year, i only have 5 fruit. Its good that my purple edumis had like 200+ fruits to compensate for the lazy cherimoya year.

In my greenhouse i have mostly scale problems, but this year i have also mealybugs. Neem oil seems to help with scale a lot, but you need to spray probably a few times in a short timeframe, my spraying regimen has been eratic so they go away for a while, returning afterwards.  Recently sprayed with a systemic pesticide inside, cant really dettect a difference os of now.
Cold pressed neem oil at 5 ml neem + 5ml dishwashing soap, per litter of water, seems to help with aphids and scale.

I am in zone 7, alot cooler than zone 10 , but the problem is the same. I generally open manually the greenhouse, in spring and in fall, when the day temps are warm but nights are chilly.
The big con to this is that there has to be someone, to open the greenhouse at the wright time. Recently , while i was at work , my mom forgot to open the greenhouse on a sunny day, outside temp was like 25C or more, imagine what was inside! I come back from work and opened the door and nearly got skin burns from the hot temperature, lol ,just kidding ! 😅 it was still very hot inside, with a ground level temp of around 30C . Several plants were left with scorched leaves, after this day, my cherimoya shed her fruitlets a few days after.
After that i bought one of those oil or whatever filled window openers, i mounted it and i should say i am pleased with how it works, having it working for severaw days now. I ordered another one.

Now, for a zone 10, i would assume, depending on what is growing inside, that your greenhouse may have to stay at least partially open most of the time, with full closing only on cold events.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: how to grow a mangotree from a mango
« on: October 31, 2023, 05:28:22 AM »
I am losing a shit ton of brain cells while watching theese, a few more and i will start believing!

Seem like here in BG we have an overly extended summer this year. Havent really monitored with acuracy the temperatures all that much, but we havent had a day that wasnt at least 20C as of this date, alot of 25C days this october. Nights are just now getting chillier at about 5 C , the lowest i had at my place was 2C, with a light frost, only on the tops of cars. Very dry october also, havent had a single proper rainy day, only 2-3 drizzle like events.
Anyway i moved in all that had to be moved, bot in the house and in the greenhouse. Now i am wondering if i should have left my potted cherimoya plants out a bit more, to get their chill requirements met, i may take them out for a bit more cold.
The greenhouse hasnt ever been so cramped up, i hate having to move it there, radiators that are on the paths are also a big pain in the ass, no way around all this, i decided to cramp the plants in the sunnier greenhouse, as oppose to having them in the dark house.
I will post pics when i can.

I have 2 unknown varieties , still small plants but both had fruit this year. They are both small fruit varieties, one had just a few fruit this year, the other one had a ton of fruit. The productive one is more sour in taste, whille firm, get to be like a slightly fermented apple taste as it dehidrates, overall not a very good taste but i still ate them all.
The shy bearer had just a few, but they were wonderfull! Albeit small, they were juicier, with a easier crunch and much sweeter , compared to the other one.
I did graft both plants with Li variety scions, but after i tasted both and evaluated them this year  i plan on letting the graft on the bad tasting one to overtake it. The good tasting one also has 3 succesfull Li grafts on it, but i will definitely let one main branch grow true to tipe, the fruit was quite good on this plant, it very spiny thought! 

Sweet! In every cluster of flowers, there are a few bigger ones which i suppose are female.
The second plant, right next to this one is also starting to make flower buds, but it does not have this cluster tipe inflorecence from the start, only 2-3 buds are visible, i think it will be a female.

I sacrificed the biggest bud on the plant, it would have bloomed really soon but i wanted to does appear to have an ovary inside, what do you think?  Does look like a hermaphrodite flower, judjing by pic references i find online.

Net says that sometimes males are triggered by low temps ,to produce flowers with ovaries, but the temp in the greenhouse hasnt even dipped below 10C as of now, night temps between 11- 17C. The species should also be the mauntain papaya, with the angular smaller fruits, which should teoretically be more cold hardy and should not be triggered by those temps?

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