The Tropical Fruit Forum

There seems to be a few " Red Limes". 
Some of the Rangpur types are called Red Limes, but they seem to be pretty much Rangpur with orange or darker orange skin.
https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus-varieties/category-or-type/rangpur-limes
None of there are particularly red.
A lot of these are very similar, possibly some have been lost and mixed up over the years ?
Excalibur Red Lime is on this list, not strictly a Rangpur, but not red pulped either.

There are also Red Limes that have red skin and red pulp, a little more mandarin like with sour juice.
Anybody growing any of these ?
Some on the Citrusgrowersforum posted pics years ago.

Horticultural wetting agents when applied at correct rates should wet up pot mix, and as a surfactant, increase drainage
Something similar to a clean windscreen or kitchen sink. The water flows away after soap is applied.
Too much wetting agent can cause big problems with excess water holding.

Copper sulfate is used as an algicide and root killer. When using it as a fungicide, it is important to neutralize its acidity (3 to 4) with lime or other plant friendly pH raising agent to a pH of 7. Low pH increases absorption by plants to possibly toxic levels. I believe copper sulfate has been replaced with other copper molecules because it is inefficient and leads to excessive copper accumulation in soil, which at high toxic levels is harmful to roots, blocks iron absorption and disrupts photosynthesis. Copper soaps (Cueva) and copper oxide (Nordox) work similarly as a fungicide with less copper and less worries about pH and toxicity.

Thanks, you raise important points.
Copper Oxychloride is used heavily on grapevines around here, the Cu issues are a concern after decades of use.
As Copper Oxychloride washes off with rain, several sprays are required per season. Overhead irrigation will be the same.
If Bordeaux spray persists better, less sprays may be required per season.
That may or may not be less actual Cu Copper applied over time, depending on the chemical formulation and spray formulation.
The same for the other copper products.
I have used Copper Oxide, seemed similar holding to Oxychloride, but that is just a just an observation.
The Bourdeaux mix proportions of Copper and Lime will affect activity of the Copper, probably the persistence on the leaves and ease of spraying through nozzles.
Highly efficient low volume spray nozzles will allow good leaf coverage without using too much spray mix. ( for all  Copper sprays ).
To dilute the amount of Copper applied and increase the stick, I used Copper Oxychloride and powdered milk as a painted paste on trunks and wounds.
Somewhere between 30% Copper & 70% milk powder to 50/50 each.
As for Copper toxicity issues, those with a few trees sprayed can collect the fallen leaves and dispose or burn/ compost and spread more widely around than just under the same tree.

The advantage of Bordeaux over copper spray is that it sticks better, and doesn't wash off as quickly in rain.
That should mean less copper applied.
I would still recommend PPE, mask and gloves, eye protection,  when mixing and spraying.
Certainly have used copper and a version of Bordeaux on grapes and Citrus.
Mostly used as an early season preventative spray than are cure spray.

I know of Buddha's hand.
Not heard about Curly leaf citron (C. medica crispifolia) and bread citron?
Can you fill the gaps, sound interesting.

I don't think the Chinese mowers, brush cutters, pumps and pole saws are made to fall apart.
They are made to a price point.
Also they are made for single or few uses, some possibly not heavy long term use.
A $200 gasoline pump ( Honda copy ) is great for a one off job to drain your pool, fill a tank etc.
Cheaper than buying or hiring a pump or contractor.
Same for a long reach pole saw. The chain is fine, the motor will trim up a tree once or a few times.
Again cheaper than buying a pro brand, hiring it or getting a contractor.
If you have used other such equipment, you need to assess what you are buying.
If you have mechanical knowledge to maintain and repair them, you will get more out of them.

The Nansho Dai Dai fruit I have tried are very sour, much more so than Rough Seville Sour Orange. Possibly Gou Tou comes close, but not quite.
As for the foliage there are other "Willow Leaf" Sour Oranges and also Sweet Oranges with long narrow foliage.
Willow leaf variants could be possible ?
The type in Australia probably came from UC Riverside collection.
Citrus miaray, from the Phillipines is pretty close to Citrus Taiwanica.
https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/crc3574

Not sure if the original question is any more clear now, possibly info about the fruit flavours of the variant types, and in Taiwan would help.

The Taiwanica type here is a very attractive tree, with its narrow foliage and the way the fruit hangs in it around the outside.

Take a minute for us in Australia.

I have Fruit Fly in my Loquat fruit.
Lorikeets eating my Loquat Fruit.
Locusts under my Loquat tree.

Is that a Haiku ?
Or a Limerick ?

All this due to changed weather patterns.
Not getting the cold winters so much any more, so fruit fly can overwinter.
Not sure where the Lorikeets came from, only turned up in the last ten years.
Not really complaining about them, beautiful birds, but they can mow thru a fruit tree.
The Locusts, didn't see so many this year, but there was an nymph alert from the Plague Locusts Commission ( a dedicated area of Govt here).
There was a Locust plague some years back, filling the sky. This year it was Dragonflies like never before.

I had one Loquat seedling come up in a shade house, it fruited and missed the fruit fly that got the outdoor trees.

ls there any reason to think that the Taiwanica from Adavo and Lenzi are really Taiwanica, and not just something they grew from seed and marketed ?
They have a multitude of interesting Citrus on their websites, but some clearly don't match original descriptions from elsewhere.
I grew Taiwanica from seed, seedlings seemed highly identical with narrow leaves etc.
One occasionally fruits, but the fruit is closer to a mandarin than the original Taiwanica fruit.
The seed came from a collection, and the next door plant was a mandarin.

Another good point about Calamondin is that it is reasonably fast to fruit from seed, maybe 5 years, certainly not 15.
The plant is on the smaller side, so possibly the node count for flowering is lower ?
It doesn't take too many growth seasons to get to full size
Either way you won't be waiting those long years for the hybrid to flower, depending on the other parent.

I remember reading about another Phillipines variety Calamandarin.
I think both it and Calamondin were also used as rootstocks over there.
Interesting that other Calamondin hybrids are not well known or heard of, even though Calamondin / Kalamansi is cemented in Philippines culture.

The success rate of hybrids is an interesting question.
If the rate is low, you have a few much wanted plants to deal with and a bigger bunch of unwanted plants to deal with.
You may be able to use these as rootstocks for the hybrids ?
I have found it nearly essential to graft from hybrids to ensure survival long term.
(Some of my most interesting unusual off type seedlings now only survive on rootstocks, the originals often died.)
Also you can easily then multiply a few hybrid seedlings to many seperate plants on rootstock.
Grafting to other more established rootstock will also push the hybrid to flowering faster by growth alone.
After that you can either repeat the hybridisation cross, or just grow the next generation seedlings of the first hybrid to get more variable " hybrid " types.
That might be more interesting if they are zygotic, as you are reshuffling the original hybrid cross for new versions.

If the hybrid success rate is high, you have a lot of plants to deal with, pot up, possibly graft, and assess long term for worthwhile characters.
I am pretty sure professional breeders throw out a lot of interesting stuff that doesn't meet the original reason for the  hybridisation cross often based on arbitrary reasons.

I am going to fudge the answer.
I think I am allowed to as you said " when you're hungry and you don't want processed food "  ( ie Fudge )
Coconut, so versatile many stages and uses.
Pistachio and Cashew.
Green Flageolet Beans, Black Turtle Beans,
Lime, Durian,
Chempadek, Marang, Pedali.
It may shock some on the forum, but the roasted seed of these Artocarpus are very nice too, crab like flavour.

The way of grafting Citrus in Japan, and the tools used are different to the West. ( Kogatana knife ?). Also different tape ?

I always thought that pure glauca is 100% zygotic.
Are these plant some sort of  hybrids? They look amazingly uniform in appearance.

With other species, ie Eucalypt, Acacia, Syzygium, etc grown for environmental replanting, the bulk seedlings are highly uniform, more so from one seed tree.
Between seed trees there can be visible differences in the seedlings.
For forestry, some selected seed trees give highly uniform seedlings and reliable final tall straight timber trees.
I would guess most of the above would be zygotic.