Citrus > Cold Hardy Citrus
Grafting non-dormant citrus
toehead:
I've had very good luck grafting dormant scions onto rootstock. However, I've failed in every case I've tried to graft an active growing Scion to a rootstock.
Is there a particular trick to it? I've got a poncirus plus graft growing inside on my volkamer lemon, and I want to get it grafted onto my in ground poncirus.
Suggestions welcome
Galatians522:
When the trees are actively growing the commercial citrus nurseries use T-buding. They chip bud when the trees are dormant. T-buding is actually the preferred method. It should work fine for you. Keep in mind that the particular bud you select can't be growing, yet (eventhough the tree as a whole will be actively growing).
Mulberry0126:
--- Quote from: toehead on June 13, 2025, 09:29:42 PM ---I've had very good luck grafting dormant scions onto rootstock. However, I've failed in every case I've tried to graft an active growing Scion to a rootstock.
Is there a particular trick to it? I've got a poncirus plus graft growing inside on my volkamer lemon, and I want to get it grafted onto my in ground poncirus.
Suggestions welcome
--- End quote ---
I do a lot of grafts with dormant and non-dormant scions, and I think the most important thing is making sure the growth has hardened off (minimal flexibility/rubbery feeling) and it is well wrapped in para film to retain moisture. Ideally, none of the buds should be actively growing and leaves should be removed.
Other than that, make sure your rootstock is also actively growing and you should eventually have success with the right technique!
toehead:
Thank you!
I tried again tonight! (attempt #3)
Upon closer inspection of the failed graft, it looks like it did heal in and callous over: The scion is fused into the rootstock very firmly.
I think where i might have gone wrong is insufficient sun protection, as this scion is from an indoor tree and is not acclimated to sun. It looks scorched on the sunward side, and there is no node in the undamaged area. .
With the new graft, I did a similar technique but painted everything with white indoor latex to give a bit of titanium dioxide sun protection. This one is an apical bud. Fingers crossed. If this fails I'll let the rootstock sprout and try to bud it. I don't want to stress this thing out too much more than it already is.
Galatians522:
One of the things I have seen in the nursery trade is that they leave the foliage attached to the rootstock until the graft has healed. Then, they cut into the rootstock top just above the graft and bend the top to make the grafted portion the highest point on the plant (this forces the graft to grow). Once the scion has hardened it's flush, you can completely remove the rootstock foliage. Keeping the leaves feeds the graft and makes it heal faster and push stronger growth until the graft forms it's own leaves.
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