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Thanks y'all!This summer has been quite odd in Tennessee . . . very wet and not very hot. A couple of nights ago, the low was 55, today the high was 75.So my main concern from what puglvr1 mentioned is the fact that it's not likely to be very hot between now and winter. Still okay to pug now, do you think, or should we wait? We'll be bringing the tree indoors to overwinter, of course.
Quote from: Triloba Tracker on August 17, 2013, 07:11:36 PMThanks y'all!This summer has been quite odd in Tennessee . . . very wet and not very hot. A couple of nights ago, the low was 55, today the high was 75.So my main concern from what puglvr1 mentioned is the fact that it's not likely to be very hot between now and winter. Still okay to pug now, do you think, or should we wait? We'll be bringing the tree indoors to overwinter, of course.It's probably okay to pug it now...but its hard to guess how quickly the new growths will appear ? Especially if your temps have not been as warm...it might take a little longer (its even possible the tree won't flush till next spring unless you have a lot of direct sun and warm conditions...Just a guess?
I've mostly seen it done to mangoes. Basically just means pruning the tree closer to the base of the trunk than normal (though obviously not below the graft), maybe at about 2 feet or so, to encourage a lower/earlier branching habit. Can probably be done with 'most' other tropical fruit trees as well. Seems to be ideal for growing a tree in a pot but perhaps not necessary for an in ground tree; might actually be counterproductive in some instances as you might not want branches occurring that low to the ground. Named after the poster puglvr1, who practiced/s it plenty.
I'm sure there are fruit trees where pugging is not recommended...I've pugged my a couple of my Citrus trees (Kumquat, dwarf Meyer lemon, Calamondin) with no problems...but I would not pug a Lychee tree. I don't grow a lot of different varieties of fruits so I'll let the more knowledgeable members answer that question...
Last question: is it necessary to re-pot it after pugging it, or can it stay put? I guess inherent in this question is how to know when to re-pot. I had been waiting until I saw evidence of roots in the pot drainage holes, per the folks at Excalibur, but perhaps that's too late. ..
Please explain and describe "pugging." On which fruit trees is it practiced?
It comes from puglvr1 who likes to keep her plants low and bushy. It involves cutting a plant back to 18 inches or so to stimulate low branching.I pugged all my mangos at planting as insurance against possible frost or wind damage and also to keep them moderate sized.Pugging is only the first step in growth management and should be followed with pruning and shaping. Richard Campbell says "size control begins at planting" but he doesn't pug. He's a pruning fiend though.