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Inkbird ITC-608T Temperature Controller Setup for Greenhouse
Sir Graftalot:
Hi Everyone,
I recently purchased the Inkbird ITC-608T Temperature Controller to maintain temperature in my KingBird greenhouse for the incoming winter. The instructions that came with the manual is appalling. I don't want to risk setting things up incorrectly and end up freezing all of my plants.
Has anyone of you used this device and know how to properly set it up? Please provide step-by-step input instructions if you could for the following desired temperature: I would like to have my milkhouse heater turn on automatically when temp dips below 42F. Once temp reaches 45F, the heater should turn off. On the cooling side, I also have a Hurricane fan plugged into the temperature controller. When temp reaches 105F, the fan should turn on and turn back off when it drops back down to 100F.
Thanks so much for any advice given!
Tropicaltoba:
Have you used the other inkbirds before? I haven’t used that one but I’ve used the 306 and 308 and they have all this goofy CE CF CA settings. If that’s what is confusing I can show my settings and what it does.
K-Rimes:
Ugh, yeah, I had trouble with this too. I had mine set for 88f as the set value. The fans would turn on a bit before that, due to the hysteresis value which I think I had set for 2f. What bothered me with the Inkbird setup was that I couldn't set a large "neutral" value in the middle where neither the fans, nor the lights would be on. I just accepted that the lights were on when the fan was off, and that was that. The issue is that the Inkbird is better suited for homebrewing or fermenting where the window is much tighter than what we want out of our greenhouse, and where the heating / cooling is more responsive. Probably someone on here has been better able to program it than I was and can help out further. What I eventually did was to focus my settings in one goal, which was almost always cooling (hence the high set temp).
Here's a helpful forum post about the Cooling Back Temperature and Hysteresis settings:
"The heating hysteresis and cooling back temps are basically the range outside the set temp to turn on either the heating or cooling device. So, for example, if your set value is 66F, and heating hysteresis is 2, then it will start heating when the temp drops to 64F. If your cooling back is also set to 2, then the cooling device will be turned on when it gets to 68."
To understand the hysteresis setting:
hys·ter·e·sis
/ˌhistəˈrēsəs/
nounPhysics
The phenomenon in which the value of a physical property lags behind changes in the effect causing it, as for instance when magnetic induction lags behind the magnetizing force.
Sir Graftalot:
--- Quote from: Tropicaltoba on November 13, 2024, 06:23:06 PM ---Have you used the other inkbirds before? I haven’t used that one but I’ve used the 306 and 308 and they have all this goofy CE CF CA settings. If that’s what is confusing I can show my settings and what it does.
--- End quote ---
Yeah, it's pretty much the same CE, CF, etc. but the 608T has two temperature sensors and can handle a higher wattage (1800) instead of 1200W for the 306/308 models I believe.
My goal is to have the Inkbird turn on the heater at temp <= 42F, turn on the fan at temp >= 102F, and do nothing in between. I have entered the following settings:
TS=72F
HD=30F == max HD value I can enter on device
CD=30F == max CD value I can enter on device
Not sure if these values will result in my desired conditions. I really appreciate it if you could share your setup.
Sir Graftalot:
--- Quote from: K-Rimes on November 13, 2024, 06:35:33 PM ---Ugh, yeah, I had trouble with this too. I had mine set for 88f as the set value. The fans would turn on a bit before that, due to the hysteresis value which I think I had set for 2f. What bothered me with the Inkbird setup was that I couldn't set a large "neutral" value in the middle where neither the fans, nor the lights would be on. I just accepted that the lights were on when the fan was off, and that was that. The issue is that the Inkbird is better suited for homebrewing or fermenting where the window is much tighter than what we want out of our greenhouse, and where the heating / cooling is more responsive. Probably someone on here has been better able to program it than I was and can help out further. What I eventually did was to focus my settings in one goal, which was almost always cooling (hence the high set temp).
Here's a helpful forum post about the Cooling Back Temperature and Hysteresis settings:
"The heating hysteresis and cooling back temps are basically the range outside the set temp to turn on either the heating or cooling device. So, for example, if your set value is 66F, and heating hysteresis is 2, then it will start heating when the temp drops to 64F. If your cooling back is also set to 2, then the cooling device will be turned on when it gets to 68."
To understand the hysteresis setting:
hys·ter·e·sis
/ˌhistəˈrēsəs/
nounPhysics
The phenomenon in which the value of a physical property lags behind changes in the effect causing it, as for instance when magnetic induction lags behind the magnetizing force.
--- End quote ---
Hi Kevin, exactly! I don't know how or if it's possible to have a large temperature gap between turning on/off the heating unit and on/off the cooling device. I would figure every greenhouse user would be looking for the same type of setup I'm trying to accomplish. Maybe this thing isn't designed for greenhouses like you said.
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