The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: rliou on September 12, 2015, 10:09:01 AM
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I have an alampur baneshan mango in so cal in a pot. For some reason it kept continuous flowering and have been doing so since november of last year. It finally set a fruitlet last month and i thought the flowering would be over. I just found it flowering again today. Is this normal behavior for alampur or is this a potential variety for mango to give more than one seasonal crop in so cal?
(http://s24.postimg.cc/ch3qsno35/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ch3qsno35/)
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That is typical behavior of many grafted mango varieties originating from Florida. I believe it is our climate combined with the Florida rootstock that causes an almost perpetual bloom. I also see that your potted tree is starting to show the typical droopy growth habit of Florida rootstock trees.
For growing Mangos is SoCal, I highly recommend planting a Lavern Manilla Mango, from Home Depot or your local nursery and then grafting your AB Mango onto it. You can also plant store bought mango seeds into the ground and then graft you scion onto the seedling when the seedling is large enough.
Better yet, since grafting can be difficult for some, I highly recommend simply purchasing a grafted or multigrafted tree from JF or Behlgarden. They graft their own trees on rootstock that grows wonderfully here in SoCal. Trust me, you will save yourself a lot of time and heartache by growing a tree on the proper rootstock.
I really appreciate the Florida Nurseries offering us all these wonderful varieties of Mangos but the trees they sell are on rootstock selected for growing in Florida. You may want to prune your tree to an outward facing leaf axial that is not droopy and tip new growth to about 3-5 leaf axial to minimize the droopy effect.
If you want a large, high yielding Mango tree with non droopy upright growth that is less prone to nutrient deficiencies, you should definitely think hard about the rootstock your tree is on.
Simon
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Yeah, while I cant confirm or deny what Simon said about rootstock (if it is still potted I am not sure I agree with rootstock being the issue), that tree does not look healthy at all. I would start by removing all fruit. The tree is too small and not in a condition i would want to see it try to hold to maturity plus if it somehow ripened, it eill not be a quality or representative of the variety.
If you want to try and save the tree, either pot it into a bigger oit with a high quality pitting mix that contsins no added fertilizer (dont use a brand such as miracle grow, vigoro, etc.). It should not be a heavy/dense mix and the mix should be well draining. Oh, and no Black Kow or manure. Prune the tree back, somewhst heavily, and then leti it flush back out and tip prune to shape whrre needed. Make sure it get a good vonsistent watering (if you use the right mix it we ill dry out quite rapjdly) and fertilize lightly but on a regular basis. Make sure it has a nitrogen component for good fegetative growth (agan, I f growing in a pit, use a quality palm fertilizer).
If the tree is in the ground, follow the above leaving out the staps relating to growing in a pot.
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That is typical behavior of many grafted mango varieties originating from Florida. I believe it is our climate combined with the Florida rootstock that causes an almost perpetual bloom. I also see that your potted tree is starting to show the typical droopy growth habit of Florida rootstock trees.
For growing Mangos is SoCal, I highly recommend planting a Lavern Manilla Mango, from Home Depot or your local nursery and then grafting your AB Mango onto it. You can also plant store bought mango seeds into the ground and then graft you scion onto the seedling when the seedling is large enough.
Better yet, since grafting can be difficult for some, I highly recommend simply purchasing a grafted or multigrafted tree from JF or Behlgarden. They graft their own trees on rootstock that grows wonderfully here in SoCal. Trust me, you will save yourself a lot of time and heartache by growing a tree on the proper rootstock.
I really appreciate the Florida Nurseries offering us all these wonderful varieties of Mangos but the trees they sell are on rootstock selected for growing in Florida. You may want to prune your tree to an outward facing leaf axial that is not droopy and tip new growth to about 3-5 leaf axial to minimize the droopy effect.
If you want a large, high yielding Mango tree with non droopy upright growth that is less prone to nutrient deficiencies, you should definitely think hard about the rootstock your tree is on.
Simon
What rootstock are JF and Behl using, and what is their seed source?
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That is typical behavior of many grafted mango varieties originating from Florida. I believe it is our climate combined with the Florida rootstock that causes an almost perpetual bloom. I also see that your potted tree is starting to show the typical droopy growth habit of Florida rootstock trees.
For growing Mangos is SoCal, I highly recommend planting a Lavern Manilla Mango, from Home Depot or your local nursery and then grafting your AB Mango onto it. You can also plant store bought mango seeds into the ground and then graft you scion onto the seedling when the seedling is large enough.
Better yet, since grafting can be difficult for some, I highly recommend simply purchasing a grafted or multigrafted tree from JF or Behlgarden. They graft their own trees on rootstock that grows wonderfully here in SoCal. Trust me, you will save yourself a lot of time and heartache by growing a tree on the proper rootstock.
I really appreciate the Florida Nurseries offering us all these wonderful varieties of Mangos but the trees they sell are on rootstock selected for growing in Florida. You may want to prune your tree to an outward facing leaf axial that is not droopy and tip new growth to about 3-5 leaf axial to minimize the droopy effect.
If you want a large, high yielding Mango tree with non droopy upright growth that is less prone to nutrient deficiencies, you should definitely think hard about the rootstock your tree is on.
Simon
What rootstock are JF and Behl using, and what is their seed source?
We are using la Verne seedling and ataulfo
Both accomplishing amazing results.
Indisputable Results
one year or less grafts on La verne's seedlings
Sweet Tart on La Verne in the background 2 year graft on Ataulfo cocktail
(http://s21.postimg.cc/8rqfr65f7/IMG_4735.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/8rqfr65f7/)
6' LZ on La Verne seedling
(http://s21.postimg.cc/xsnmobzeb/IMG_4736.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/xsnmobzeb/)
ZINC planted April on La Verne
(http://s21.postimg.cc/hvourm703/IMG_4738.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hvourm703/)
Sindhiri & Fernandin planted April on La Verne
(http://s21.postimg.cc/q3qsclywj/IMG_4739.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/q3qsclywj/)
Juicy Peach FL rootstock 2 year graft
(http://s22.postimg.cc/4lv85ngi5/IMG_4742.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4lv85ngi5/)
Sunrise Fl rootstock 2 or 3 ye
(http://s29.postimg.cc/f3mvxgmr7/IMG_4737.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f3mvxgmr7/)
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Sounds great, thanks!
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I am actually in the process of multigrafting all my varieties to manilla atualfo rootstocks. The two exceptions are lemon zest and alphonso. These two varieties are vigorous enough that their branch hardens before droopy behavior sets in. In addition, it seems to provide a more dwarfish appearance
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Oh -- I should have clarified -- are you planting seeds from your La Verne "Manila" tree and using those seedlings as rootstock, or are you buying wholesale La Verne trees and then grafting them?
I ask because I have a 2 year-old La Verne tree, and I'm debating whether to put it in the greenhouse to push its growth to start getting fruit from it to use as rootstock.
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I do both (seeds from store bought) and laverne nursery trees. Using seeds will give u a tap root to work with. The laverne trees seems to lack them.
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I do both (seeds from store bought) and laverne nursery trees. Using seeds will give u a tap root to work with. The laverne trees seems to lack them.
If you plant the seed directly into the ground, you will get a tap root. If you start the seed in a 1 or 3 gal, you will not get a true tap root.