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Messages - bussone

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1
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus Breeding
« on: April 16, 2024, 11:28:29 AM »

Buddhas hand has no seeds though right? I wonder if thats just what you get when you try to cross BH with about anything?

just thinking out loud here

I only know of 2 buddha hand hybrids for ornamental use.  and they have no fingers.  Buddha's hand does not produce seeds just because it does not form the internal part of the fruit, neither pulp nor seeds, but it has excellent pollen and we will see in a few years what results from my crosses 💪.  There are images of Chinotto crosses and Buddha's hand and he did not give fingers, look it up on Google.

There do exist fingered citrons which have some pulp and perhaps seeds.

2
Madison lists a Citrangequat 10-3-4:
https://madisoncitrusnursery.com/products/citrangequat-hybrid-10-3-4-tree-for-sale?_pos=1&_sid=ede917b52&_ss=r

Anyone know what this is or what it's hardiness is like?

3
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus Breeding
« on: April 12, 2024, 05:49:50 PM »
Im interested in breeding zone 7/8 worthy edible citrus varieties and have my eyes on a couple ideas. Would it be a good idea to use Keraji as the seed parent and maybe Kishu/Clem-Yuz/Thomasville as pollen donors?

I have no idea what I’m doing as far as breeding goes and will be researching a lot but have lurked on this website for quite some time.

Any advice welcome Thanks!

Being as you are in South Carolina, I would recommend you give Stan Mckenzie a call.
http://mckenzie-farms.com/

4
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Hardy citrus in PNW
« on: April 12, 2024, 05:47:28 PM »
   A pure Poncirus (rootstock from Stan Mckenzie)- not even any leaf drop

The varieties that received damage were:

   Thomasville seedling from eyeckr - twig dieback, but looks like it will make it, as some green on bottom part of it

Similar here. My Thomasville got whacked in late January and isn't looking great, although it's not all dead yet.
Species poncirus didn't even drop leaves.

5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Growing oranges in FL
« on: April 05, 2024, 03:21:47 PM »
I disagree. I have seen groves mixed in alternate rows with pine trees and the trees look far healthier than open sun and open air trees. My own experience so far mirrors this. They are an understory tree in nature and prefer dappled light. Every grove I see on the regular in full sun looks like hell. Could be they all have greening, but doesnt explain why the partially shaded ones look so much better. Partially shaded doesnt mean they arent getting 6-8 hours of sun, it just means they arent getting the sun full blast from 6am-830pm(during the summer)

It's conceivable that both are correct.

Mixed rows could yield citrus trees that are more productive in terms of product per tree, but less productive in terms of product per acre, because a non-mixed grove has twice the citrus density. Even if mixed rows yields citrus that are 50% more healthy/productive,  2x1 > 1x1.5.

6
I've used aged mulberry from an orchard nearby. It's fine.

What I used was debarked.

I've also used fig cuttings on occasion. Those are latex-y as well until they age.

7
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Figs vs kumquats
« on: April 04, 2024, 02:20:35 PM »
This seedling Meiwa tree is 4 times older than this new fig growth. Why am I bothering with Meiwa kumquats.


Maybe you don't like figs?

8
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: timing of fertlizer
« on: April 03, 2024, 11:53:22 AM »
Jacks is a excellent fertilize, particularly for container trees.  It is also an excellent fertilizer for in ground trees. In my mind, and the minds of many growers  Jacks 25-5-15 is the very best fertilizer for citrus.  This is because 25-5-15 is the ratio that citrus absorb nutrients. However, in Florida, and other large citrus growing states, the University only suggest fertilizers that are sold in bulk due to the large volume of fertilizers it takes to fertilize a commercial grove.  I use 25-5-i5 on all of my trees , inground and container.   Kulasa, thank you for your post to me, I should have advised Unicyclemike differently.

Any thoughts on Miracle-Gro 24-8-16?

I ask, as I can find that in 3-lb quantities, rather than the 25-lb quantity Jack's is in.

9
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus Pollen Collecting
« on: March 26, 2024, 01:54:18 PM »
Where do you buy the "silica gel stones" ?
Some medicines (tablets) are sold in convenient boxes with silica gel in the lid.

If you need an easier source:
https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Desiccant-Packets-Moisture-Electronics/dp/B08YJH2J6Q/?th=1

10
Hello Bussone and Nemaja.
@ Nemaja, thanks for the explanation.
@ Bussone, yes Slava micurina was reported to be cold tolerant more than
-10 degrees ° C , but as seen in my picture, at the same location im my gardean
nearby planted Bloomsweet and Duncan Grapefruit show no freeze
damage, while slava shows. So I guess slav is not much more hardy
than already pretty hardy Navel oranges.

Ilya reported it did okay -- better than Thomasville/worse than Morton -- a few years back.
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=27950.0

11
If Flying Dragon is too dwarfing a rootstock to use for in-ground Citrus in the PNW, I wonder what a good rootstock would be for us. I have Swingle citrumelo and C-35 available, as well as probably the standard species Poncirus trifoliata (not Flying Dragon). I have 852 citrandarin seedlings, too, but they're intended for fruiting, not rootstock.

For plants that I'm keeping containerized, I assume FD would be a good rootstock as we would want plants that remain of manageable size, since the containers need to be moved in and out of the greenhouse.

Species poncirus is less-dwarfing than Flying Dragon.

12
A few weeks of mild temperatures after the freezedays
 in January down to - 10 ° C most of the inground citrus
took the freeze very good. My worst/ weakest are:

Slave micurina in the back on the right side.

What is slave micurina?

13
What about Australian Sunrise? I don't have it but from what I read it has a peel like kumquat.

My recollection is that it was very kumquat-like, but more sour.

14
Hello David.
    That is an interesting article.   Thanks for finding that and linking it.   I have been trying to think through the process and didn't think that optimizing the light would have decreased the time to flower...     My thoughts went to trying to decrease the cycle time for a full day cycle (8 hours light, 8 hours of dark for a 16 hour "full cycle" of a "day" which would gain me 8 hours each day.    If that cycle could "trick" the plant/seedling into accepting that a whole day had gone by, then maybe it would accept 365 light/dark cycles as a YEAR, even though it would only have take 8 months of calendar time to reach that...      Thereby possibly "aging" 50% faster, and maybe flowering 50% faster than average.

   Granted, I have only had this thought for about a week, I am still fleshing it out, but so far, a technical hurdle I am having is that all the light timers I am finding are TIME BASED, which is then focused on ON times and OFF times, in a 12 hour or 24 hour cycle.   I have not yet found a timer that I can use for 110 volt lights that uses a pure ELAPSED TIME (for example, 8 hours on, 8 hours off, REPEAT FOREVER).

   Lazarus.

I believe this one can do what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G6O28NA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


15
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 Citrandarin (X-639) winter hardiness trial
« on: February 21, 2024, 06:16:34 PM »
A bit of advice from my project: avoid planting the seedlings so close together that they root-graft to one another. This should eliminate the issue of hardy roots allowing less hardy seedlings to survive. At this point I am still uncertain as to the status of several of my trees in regards to true hardiness.

Is that a viable method for zone pushing?

16
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Looking for Sichuan Pepper Plants
« on: February 12, 2024, 11:31:01 AM »
Hi, I'm looking for sichuan pepper plants, preferably Zanthoxylum bungeanum. For some reason I can't find any of these for sale here in the U.S. even though they seem to be one of the more common varieties in cultivation like Z. simulans.

https://www.bayflora.com/szpetr1.html (simulans)
https://onegreenworld.com/product/sechuan-pepper/ (simulans)
https://onegreenworld.com/product/sansho-japanese-pepper/ (piperitum)
https://wanderlustnursery.com/shop/products/p/sichuan-pepper?rq=sichuan (simulans, out of stock)
https://raintreenursery.com/products/sichuan-pepper-gal-pot-1 (simulans)

I got mine from One Green World.

For bungeanum, your choices appear to be seeds or private sellers.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1651718279/szechuan-pepper-peppercorn-sichuan (bungeanum)

FWIW, if you are looking for "sichuan pepper" rather than a specific species, any of simulans, piperitum, bungeanum, or schinifolium will probably get you what you want. They seem to be used interchangeably.

17
Couple comments.  1. Why does anyone bother with citrus like Citrondarin. 

Most sane people would wonder why we try to grow citrus outside the tropics at all.

18
I tasted the first fruit of the Citrondarin (VI 396 ) on my grafted branch, and I can tell you it does tastes terrible.
You really can't eat this fruit out of hand, worse tasting citrus I have eaten.

It looks promising, anyway. How does the flavor compare to a sour orange?

19
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Amoa 8 Blood Mandarin…woah!
« on: February 05, 2024, 11:11:49 AM »
https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/crc301



about hybrids with Ruby orange and poncirus I remember this part of the text, but no one has Rusk citrange that I know of, does anyone have it to confirm?

Stan McKenzie and Oscar Tintori carry it. I'm not sure that helps you in Argentina, though.

20
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Germinating hawthorn seeds
« on: January 31, 2024, 11:02:53 AM »
So I found commercially available sulphuric acid source, and am going to give acid scarification a go. I was a synthetic chemist in a former life so I know how to handle it. I’ll post updates.

Is there a reason to not use something like 10% vinegar? Not strong enough?

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Kumquat x Buddha's Hand
« on: January 30, 2024, 05:12:39 PM »
To be honest, I was a bit disappointed by Kumquat x Buddhas Hand. Not that the taste was bad. Not that the fruits are not usefull. Yes, you can enjoy them and do something with them. But I asked myself where the plus of the variety is. I would say a true lemon has a bit more complex taste. And a true lemon has usable peel. The peel of Kumquat x Buddhas Hand is too thin to be of real use and it does not taste better than lemon peel.

So my final assessment: Stay with lemons when you like sour fruits. When you want to breed something new you may use it in further crosses for it does have plenty of pollen. But it will be a kind of lottery what you will get because there is perhaps nobody who knows what its exact genetical constitution is. Can it pass off fingered fruits? Are fingered fruits a recessive trait still contained in Kumquat x Buddhas Hand or is it a dominant trait which then would be not present? In which crossing combination will the thick peel of Buddhas Hand citron show up again?

There may be value in something that's like a lemon, but where the kumquat genetics give you improved access to the Papuan citrus species that tend to be shy about outcrossing. This may cross in an interesting manner with citranges or poncirus, too.

22
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: January 29, 2024, 04:22:59 PM »
Kumin, Do you have deciduous forms whose winter hardiness is lower than that of Bishop or other evergreen forms?

FWIW, species poncirus has been evergreen for me so far this winter. Down to 11F. Only has a lateral burlap wrap around a plant cage for wind protection (open top).

23
Just a curiosity; does Glauca x Poncirus (or the reverse) exist?

Microcitrus/poncirus hybrids exist.
https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/crc3566

24
Glauca x Poncirus doesn't exist to my knowledge. Only hybrid I know that is like that is Citrangeremo (citrange and glauca cross).
Is the Citrangeremo available in US ?

Sometimes. I’ve seen it, but not often.

25
The deciduous characteristic isn't necessarily all or nothing. A few plants in a mixed population will lose their green color early and subsequently drop all their leaves. Another portion of the population will drop their oldest leaves early, later followed by the younger leaves. Other trees will retain their leaves until new growth begins in the Spring. The leaves will be heavily damaged by this point.

There's a tendency for trees to retain their leaves as juveniles, then drop them more reliably as the tree matures.
Deciduous trees should suffer less stress, especially in regards to Winter leaf dessication.
There are, however additional factors involved. An example is whether the overwintering buds are of the Poncirus type with well defined bud scales, or the less well developed Citrus type of bud.
One of my selections is quite stem hardy, but has less cold hardy buds. This leads to the first Spring flush of leaves being pale colored with distorted leaf form. Subsequent flushes are normally colored and shaped.

I’ve noticed zanthoxylum, which also has deciduous traits, varies by type in terms of when/how it drops leaves.

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