The Tropical Fruit Forum

Our winter has been relatively mild to this point, with numerous lows at 15 to 17 degrees F. One of the segentranges has developed purplish leaf coloration. If I'm very lucky this may be inherited from the Ruby blood orange grandparent? A blood colored segentrange would be interesting, but certainly unproven at this point.
The coloration is clearly a response to cold temperatures, but there's no certainty that any fruit would develop similar coloration.

Although well drained soil is best, persimmons have considerable tolerance to clay soil. Wet soil is tolerated better in cold temperatures than hot weather, as the need for soil oxygen is lower in winter. Sandy soil is fine as long as the soil has adequate fertility and moisture.

Mikkel, when I initially saw the 95% zygotic embryos for US 1282 , I was a bit skeptical there might be an error. However, I've just received conformation that it's correct. So if it's possible to obtain a clone and produce one's own parent seed trees, there is the potential of producing large numbers of zygotic F2 seedlings. 

A good deal of information as it relates to South African Citrus Propagation and Cultivation practices. From a commercial production perspective. A lot of material to digest.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6OhcoGYXt2zyXSEa8EWquw

https://www.youtube.com/user/CitrusAcademy1/videos

By spring I should have some answers in regards to the cold hardiness of both 5* and TaiTri. Shorter winters would be desirable!

There is indeed callus formation. The graft isn't a failure until all buds are dead. Inactive buds can be stimulated to push if any are present. If this is the same graft with bud growth, it is a positive indication.

In reference to rooting cuttings, a common practice is to provide bottom heat while keeping the stem above the media cool. The idea is to promote callus formation in the lower part of the stem by elevating the temperature. The above ground parts of the stem are cooled by periodic evaporative mist or fog spray. The cooler top temperatures are intended to discourage top growth until roots have formed.

In regards to the early bud emergence on the scions, is there a chance the scions are at a warmer temperature than the roots?

In either case the energy available in the scion should not be expended by bud growth prior to healing of the graft union.

The more experimentation you are able to follow and evaluate what works, the more experience and knowledge you will be able to develop. Many persons budding and grafting develop personal favorite techniques based on what has worked for them in the past.

Is anyone familiar with both TiaTri citrandarin and 5* citrumelo in respect to their winter hardiness? The first indications I see are that TaiTri shows a bit of deciduousness while I see none in the 5* at this point.  Some of my segentrages show appreciable deciduous behavior, others don't. TaiTri also made less late growth. Which has shown better cold resistance?

It certainly appears that the true identity and description of Sacaton (and Yuma?) is not resolved, at least in the literature. A large scale cold hardy F2 seedling segregation test with 100% nucellar seeds would be disastrous! This reminds me a bit of the Carrizo/Troyer citrange question. Are the 2 the same clone, or 2 very similar cultivars?

Such a high percentage of monofoliates indeed suggests the pollen parent (s) was/were monofoliates. Best of luck with your hybrids.

 If alive, it's dormant and would need to be forced in order to grow. Pruning back top growth should do the trick.

1500 Watts is likely serious overkill for a small enclosure. The wattage should not be higher than the equivalent wattage of a correctly sized lightbulb.