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Messages - Walt

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Citrus General Discussion / Re: When to repot
« on: August 12, 2018, 02:54:51 PM »
I am a novice compared to many here.  But a few years back I bought a 1 gallon pot with about 30 trifoliate orange seedling for root stocks.  They were about 6 months old.  When I transplanted them each to a 1 gallon pot, I didn't loose even one.  So it must not be too hard.

Very interesting.  Thanks for the link.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: August 04, 2018, 02:34:24 PM »
Are these crosses that exist, or crosses you plan?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Yuzu - Not branching
« on: July 26, 2018, 11:40:34 AM »
I've never done this with citrus, but it works on most woody plants.
Cutting off the dominant apical bud does indeed work.  But another way I prefer is to make a cut above the bud you want to become a branch.  This cuts off the IAA, etc. from the apical bud and the lateral bud below the notch starts to grow.
I learned this from North Merica Fruit Explorers.  It is too slow for commercial orchards, but hobbiest with few trees find it gives more control of branch spacing.
When I used this method, not on citrus, I found it was enough to just push a razor blade into the tree past the cambium, and pull the razor blade back out.  It left no scar, good for bonsai, and it was effective.
This method works on any branch or trunk that is immature enough you can still see buds.  I find that with my shaky hands, I can't use this method on really small new growth because I end up slicing off the twig.  In my younger days I was able to do it on really tiny twigs.  When I was doing bonsai, I could get every bud to branch.  It left me with lots of options.
Note:  Millet's metod has worked on citrus and all kinds of trees for centuries.  I don't know if my method works on citrus, but I'd bet it does.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Want To Avoid Macular Digeneration?
« on: July 26, 2018, 11:21:47 AM »
Too late.  Pepsi already did the.  I Pepsi didn't help my eyes.

I have some seedlings from the citrange 'Sanford'.  Sanford is supposed give zygotic seeds.
It will be years before they bloom. 
I haven't checked, but I'm sure none of them will be hardy for me in zone 6.

Ilya said he has little seedlings that are 3/4 Pt, 1/4 grapefruit or pommelo.  Also not bloomed yet.  Also unknown hardiness but no doubt hardier than the F1 was.

Anyone else?  This is an important question to me too.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Want To Avoid Macular Digeneration?
« on: July 13, 2018, 03:09:33 PM »
So I can deduct oranges from my taxes as a medical expense.  That is good to know.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: July 12, 2018, 02:39:58 PM »
Thank you for the information. 
Am I right in assuming that a scion from a plant that has bloomed, grafted onto a meter tall P.t. seedling, will bloom within a year or two? 

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: July 11, 2018, 02:46:15 PM »
How tall do P. trifoliata have to be to flower.  I'm asking about both precocious and regular.

I used to have  a greenhouse sunk about 1 1/2 M into the ground.  This was in cenrtral Kansas, USA, zone 6.  Tomatoes survived the winters in it without any extra heat.  Just sun and heat stored in the walls and floor.
Tomatoes didn't grow during December until late March.  But green fruit stayed good through that time and began growing again and  ripened when longer days arrived in late March.
My fig also did fine in that greenhouse.
I think many citrus would do fine in such a greenhouse. 
The greenhouse only had automatic vent openers.  No fans.  In fact no electricity or gas.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Buy, sell, or trade pollen here?
« on: May 26, 2018, 11:59:22 AM »
I'm not sure which species or variety you are referring to.  I know that some citrus are this quick.  Key lime is said to bloom in as little as one year from seed.  But do you mean in general?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Poncirus Seedlings
« on: May 20, 2018, 05:16:44 PM »
My guess is that inheritance of precociousness from a naturally precocious species will be due to several genes, and the F1 will be intermediate between the parents.  P. trifoliata precociousness is due to single recessive trait.  So I think you are on the right track.  The partial precocity of the hybrid will get you through the F1 generation sooner that less precocious citrus species crossed with precocious Pt.  Then in the F2 I expect the homozygous precocious from Pt will divide the F2 generation into 2 maturity groups, each showing variation in precocity due to the microcitris genes.
That's my guess.  I'm getting set up to do similar crosses, but you are way ahead of me.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Poncirus Seedlings
« on: May 19, 2018, 02:44:55 PM »
Wow.  Not encouraging.
My seed source, Hong's Landscaping in Wichita, Kansas has had regular fruiting for many years.  But Mr. Hong doesn't remember his sourse nor does he remember how long he has had them.  His 2 bushes, not really trees, are about 3 M tall and 5 m wide, with many trunks each.  They are by a fence where they get no attention.  They are of no importance to his landscape business, nor to his mostly beautifully landscaped grounds.
I have 5 year old seedlings from seeds from these to bushes.  Sounds like it will be a while before I'll be getting my own seed or pollen.  Well, I can drive 140 miles to get pollen if I have to.  But first my citrus will have to grow a while.
I have been promised a grafted precocious P.t later this summer, but it sounds like any resulting seedlings will take quite a while as the precocious is recessive.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Poncirus Seedlings
« on: May 18, 2018, 01:47:28 PM »
When growing Poncirus for fruit (seeds), what spacing do you use?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Poncirus Seedlings
« on: May 18, 2018, 01:44:23 PM »
How old are they?  Are they blooming size yet?

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Growing lemons from seed?
« on: May 12, 2018, 02:06:56 PM »
I used the search on this forum  and found very little on Meyer lemon seedlings.  This thread mentioned Meyer lemon seedlings so I'll post my question here.
I have started a rather large citrus breeding project.  It will be some years before I have a bunch of hand-pollinated citrus seeds, but I'm preparing for them.  In the meantime I will have lots of space and I  need to gain experience growing citrus seedlings.  So I planted a bunch of Meyer lemon seeds.
You don't need to tell me the seedlings won't be Meyer lemons.  If I wanted a bunch of Meyer lemons, I'd have bought Meyer lemon cutting grown or grafted plants.  I want to see a segregating population of some citrus seedlings. 
But not being the most patient person in the world, I'd like to hear results from anyone who has grown even one Meyer lemon to maturity.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Buy, sell, or trade pollen here?
« on: May 11, 2018, 01:30:54 PM »
No finger limes yet, but I've started shopping.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Buy, sell, or trade pollen here?
« on: May 09, 2018, 04:44:17 PM »
Something I think about often.
As I made plans for a 39 year breeding program, I realized that in that time, there could (will) be designer plants. 
The CRISPR process you mentioned could be applied to an F1 of P.t x citrus and delete the bad flavor genes of P.t, and delete the genes for cold damage from citrus.  I presume the deleted genes of P.t could be replaced with copies of the citrus genes.
But I decided to give the old way a try, as it is the method I know and am set up for.  I plan on wondering around on this Earth for several years yet, and I might as well do something interesting.

I'm told that citrus pollen properly dried and refridgerated will keep for a year.  I haven't tried, as I'm mostly waiting for flowers.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Buy, sell, or trade pollen here?
« on: May 07, 2018, 03:18:03 PM »
It is frustrating, though sometimes necessary, for breeders to grow breeding stock for years before actually making a cross.  So how about including pollen here?  I might start by suggesting that same rules should apply as for seeds, as I'm not absolutely sure that pollen can't spread virus.  I'm sure they don't spread insects, at least.
I can see that sometimes an inexperienced person might harvest unripe pollen, or not keep it dry enough.  And how to quantify the amount of pollen.

Thanks.  I seem to recall he had not been on the old group for some time, so I didn't think to see if he is here.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: April 25, 2018, 12:35:11 PM »
Last year I succeeded in getting citrumelo 5* x  Flying Dragon hybrid seedlings, but it was after several years of failures.

From reading your posts for several years, I'm sure you know what you are doing and how to do it.  So it sounds to me that maybe Ponciris-Citrus hybrids aren't very fertile.  Is that generally true?  Have people tried enough crosses using Ponciris-Citrus hybrids as parents to know how fertile they are?  I have read of the kumquat x citrange hybrids of course.  And Dr. Brown's hybrids.  Those made me think it was easy, but for all I know they resulted from thousands of attempts.

Well, the title says it all.  I'm looking for Laaz's precocious P. trifoliata to in hopes of speeding up my citrus breeding.  PM me with price etc.

I've rooted figs and tried to root citrus cuttings.
Figs are easy.  I've never lost a cutting from the edible fig.  Most other species I've tried, I've lost one here and there.  Some species of figs for roots in the air, on the tree.  Banyans are figs though not the edible kinds.
Citrus I have tried twice with no success.  I think Millet's suggestion of sterilizing the cuttings might have made a difference.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: April 13, 2018, 03:54:58 PM »
At the start of this thread, I said I was using mandarine, orange, and P. trifoliata. 
Mandarin because it is my favorite citrus, it is often zygotic, and it is moderately precocious.
Orange because I had access to OP Sanford seeds, and oranges are much like mandarins.
Trifoliate orange, obviously, because it is winter-hardy in zone 5.  It has no other excuse for being in my garden.

Now, in addition, I plan to start another group using finger lime and precocious P. trifoliata.  The F1 should be somewhat precocious because of the finger lime.  The precocious P. trifoliata is recessive by many reports.  The backcross of (fingerlime x P. trifoliata) to precocious P. trifoliata, I hope will segregate for precocity.  Also it will be segregating for winter-hardiness and traits that go together to give winter hardiness, i.e. dormancy that lasts all winter, low temperature tolerance.

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