The Tropical Fruit Forum

I had one day ants on my kaki sharon and when they kept the louses the small fruits also got black ( i think fungus) and the fruits died even some smal twigs died. Now since I made a barrier for the ants my tree recovered and now 2 years later my tree is in good shape, has new fruits and they look well.
Not sure if this is your problem, but you could look for that.

I still tried some more graftings with young seedlings and have very low fail rates, so I believe due to the youth of the plants and the strong growing ability (Dunstan citrumelo) it' s very favorable for grafting and fast wound healing. Currently I tried a combination seedling (Dunstan citrumelo) with thin mature wood of cocktail pomelo ( there the result is still open).
But in the picture a new good growing graft of Star Ruby on Dunstan citrumelo, both 5 month old seedlings.

Regards Frank

SoCal,
my Yuzu froze down a few cm about earth (-16 degree celsius) this winter but no comes back.
And due to my experiences with this winter and small plants in ground, I still will keep them 1 or 2 winters in pot
before planting in ground.

I got this year a citradia and taiwanica and plan to plant them next spring in ground in zone 7, everyone out there who  cultivates them in ground and can tell me of his experience how frosthardy they are, which lowest temperature have they born good, which temperature survived with small damages?
Thanks for your help 

Thank you Zitrusgärtner, up to now I hadn' t the possibility to highcraft, but I agree that this is very helpful,
also the sun protection.
How is your HRS899 A did you have fruits last year ?
Regards Frank

So I' m glad if my post is useful.
Regards Frank

Now a final conclusion after the winter is possible.
From the 3 candidates with high mortal risk in the last report, the 5* and the HRS 899 finally died but I' m glad to report, that Ichangquat 245 survived. So from 10 frosthardy variants 7 could survive this for citrus very hard winter and spring.
Best regards Frank

Hi Brian, interesting, even didn' t know that these pots are exported to the US, yes we have these pots also here, but actually I referred to orange pots in plastic. Im using them for bigger plants due to weight 😅🙋‍♂️.
Regards Frank

Yes Pagnr, you are totally right, that it' s important to install it some time before leaving, due to a lot of possible misfunctions. Today I started it with a geeat part of my plants and I saw, that the irrigatin nozzles at each plant has carefully to be adapted and finetuned, to get a good water distribution in the pots.
And further I have the issue, some plants are growing heavily with a great water consumption and others have lower water consumption, even getting more different by different soil mixes. So I decided to irrigate every 2. day and ask my son to be a supervisor and eventually irrigate some plants which need water more often by hand.

thank you Millet very interesting info.

I have my greenhause since last autumn. And by reading your question and Ilyas answer, I also asked me what to do in summer. I have a heating system for winter which I could also use for ventilation in summer. But by thinking about I had the idea additional to the door and the window taking out a wall panel, perhaps then this is sufficient to limit the heat to under 40 degree Celsius. Perhaps this is also possible in your greenhouse ( if this works) ?

here is the final update of the survivors (new green buds and no dry back anymore) and the candidates with still mortal risk (dry back goes on or rootstock got cracks) and the Dunstan which is already died.
Due to our very cold April ( coldest since many years) the plants start very slow growing.
The Thomasville had new shot and this was eaten by an unknown insect, so because the plant is still small I put it in a net for protection for a few weeks.