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Unfortunately it seems that since my address is not California they do not appear for me, I guess the providers do not ship there. Very sad.

Try to search 'bayberry' to see if it shows up.
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I read a few comments from '& Plant & Haven' seller on temu.  This one is a scammer.
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: How to root passionfruit vines?
« Last post by 70Malibu on Today at 01:21:58 AM »
nrh, thanks for this good article.

Rob, I think I will buy me a 26gal (tall) aquarium and use it for rooting my Dennis Big Yellow and Professor's Big Red in a few weeks.
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Growing Fruit Trees in Costa Rica
« Last post by ChiliChameleon on Today at 01:03:13 AM »
Thanks for the information Peter.

Curious how well things like achacha, cherimoya, and lychee might do at higher elevations. I hadn’t considered acidic soil being an issue. We have quite the opposite problem here in Florida with our limestone bedrock.

Jason
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: How to root passionfruit vines?
« Last post by nrh on Today at 12:45:36 AM »
From University of Florida extension


https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1491

Quote
Asexual Propagation
Cuttings
Propagating passion fruit plants through cuttings is an effective way to generate genetically identical offspring. This method requires less time than growing plants from seeds and generates plants with a shorter juvenile phase. Cuttings can grow into healthy plants in just a few months. Balancing humidity and air circulation is critical for successful propagation by cuttings. Such balance prevents pathogen growth and preserves substrate moisture to promote root development at the bases of cuttings.

For propagation by cuttings, a healthy, disease-free plant actively producing fruits should be selected as the source of plant material. Ideally, the plant should be assessed for viruses before propagation and discarded if infected. Taking cuttings from branches that are blooming or fruiting should be avoided. Cuttings with flower buds consume their energy in reproductive growth rather than in rooting. Selecting one-year-old wood cuttings with new growth is recommended, as these parts are more likely to root successfully.

Before obtaining cuttings, garden clippers should be sanitized in a 10% chlorine solution to prevent disease transmission. Proper cuttings for propagation are obtained by cutting a stem segment at a 45-degree angle just above the bottom node because this method increases the surface area for root development. To encourage root growth, the cuttings should have two to four nodes (Figure 6), tendrils removed, and leaves cut in half, except for the newest leaves. Dipping the cuttings into a fungicide solution before propagation prevents disease development. Additionally, applying rooting hormones (available in powder, liquid, or gel forms) evenly on each cutting’s end surface can significantly promote root development.

To plant the cuttings, fill a pot or propagation tray with a peat-moss-based potting mix containing perlite, which will provide ideal drainage and moisture levels (Figure 7). Each cutting should be planted in a hole with a depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm), with the angled cut end pointing down, gently packing the soil around it to eliminate air pockets. The substrate needs to stay moist but not oversaturated. The plants should be placed in a high relative humidity environment with temperatures around 85°F (29°C) and should receive indirect sunlight. Propagation boxes with clear covers are ideal for propagating passion fruit cuttings (Figure 7). To avoid disease incidence that may occur in humid conditions, spray the cuttings with fungicide every week. It is important to check the cuttings for new leaf growth and root development every two weeks. Removing flower buds during rooting is also recommended to redirect resources towards rooting. After two to three months and under proper conditions, the cuttings should have developed roots, making them ready for transplant. New leaf growth in the stem is a good indicator of successful root establishment. A noticeable resistance when gently pulling the cutting also means that roots are likely ready for transplant. After verifying those two indicators, the cuttings can be transferred to a new pot with fresh potting substrate. This propagation method offers a consistent and effective way to obtain healthy plant material, ensuring the plants have the desired traits observed in the parent plant while shortening the juvenile phase.




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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Breadfruit Advice Requested
« Last post by Lumi-Ukko on Today at 12:01:18 AM »
I have two breadfruit trees which I foolishly left in pots too small for them and they had rooted well into the ground. Recently I decided I was going to deal with them and up-pot them until they can go in the ground this summer at the new land. Both trees are about 3m tall with only one central leader.

Pulling them resulted in broken taproots and serious stress ultimately leading to all leaves and the new leaf buds dying off. I put them both in partial filtered light but it looked to me like they both might be goners. As it happened, one of them managed to put out a new leaf and is putting another one out and I think it may make it. However the other one has gotten into a weird state. Basically, it is putting out a ton of buds from the trunk up to half way up. Above that, a rot is setting in evidenced by wrinkling bark which can be smudged off the cambium, unlike further down.

Clearly, I need to do something about this rotting dying part, but worried that if I lop off the trunk above the last bud, I will just cause an area for the rot to set in at the cut part. Is there anything I can apply to the cut to "seal it" and prevent the infection spreading at the amputation? Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on how to deal with this and save the tree? They really are one of my favorite trees to look at so I would be sad to lose it.
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: The melon thread
« Last post by akimbo on March 16, 2026, 11:27:10 PM »
I just sprouted a bunch of yellow-flesh moon & stars watermelon seedlings.

I planted some kajari melon seeds which haven’t sprouted yet.

This is the earliest I started melons so I’m eager to see what luck I have!
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Causes for blandly flavored mangos
« Last post by Squam256 on March 16, 2026, 10:49:58 PM »
Good points already with respect to nutrition.

Protracted periods of rain and/or overcast weather are common contributors. These are usually temporary for most varieties, but a few seem to suffer for weeks after those kinds of conditions.

Another less talked about one is when trees load up heavily, there is some degree of tradeoff in quality where the brix is reduced by the heavy crop load , which is part of the reason why a cultivar like Duncan can start out subpar and get better as the season progresses.

Another is leaf-to-fruit ratio.



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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Myrciaria Madness and Eugenia Mania
« Last post by BloomAndSprout on March 16, 2026, 09:43:58 PM »
Eugenia dichroma






Does it sucker a lot?  My Eugenia sp. de Goiana does and looks similar to this one (I recall someone suggested this one earlier, maybe it was you--more evidence for the "Fanta" hypothesis) and it really likes to sucker, at least my particular tree does. I don't know why, no other Eugenia I have likes to sucker as much as this tree does in a pot.
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Puerto Rico residents or collectors
« Last post by Borifruit on March 16, 2026, 09:10:50 PM »
I always ponder getting some land out there and putting in some work. Have visited many times and love it.

Whenever you are ready to buy, let me know via PM.  I could try to set you up with a few farms on sale.
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