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Messages - bussone

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1
I came across this account in a book I'm reading. What do you think? For context, this was in Brazil.



Syntropic Agriculture According to Ernst Götsch, 1st edition in English, page 81

I think that's mostly woo. They are likely seeing a minor fertilizer effect from composting and the real advantage they are getting is using a taller canopy to break up exposed citrus area. We already know that canopy cover confuses psyllids and reduces their infestation level and the downstream greening infection. This is likely what the eucalyptus plantings are really doing. Thing is, this is amelioration, not prevention.

2
My Thomasville Citrangequat is absolutely loaded with fruit. They are still green, but the largest ones have a very faint sign of turning yellow. Next Monday the weather forecast says we may get down to 32 degrees then the lows are back on the low 40's and high 30's after that. Will this one night of possible 30 to 32 degrees ruin the fruit? What should I do.

If you are concerned, a frost net might keep your tree above 32 F.

3
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Tips for Germinating Poncirus Trifoliata seeds
« on: October 20, 2025, 06:07:57 PM »
Can anyone give me info on how to successfully germinate poncirus trifoliata seeds.?

I have twice now ordered seeds online and followed the directions precisely as printed without success.

1. Soaked for 24 hours in water.
2. Placed in fridge in most medium for 30 days to cold stratify
3. Planted at 1/2 inch depth in citrus/cactus potting mix in 1 quart pot
4. Kept soil moist and above 70 degrees F.

Twice now, nothing has happened. What am I doing wrong?

Any advice would be helpful as I really would like to germinate some trifoliate orange seeds.

I just tossed them in a finger-poked hole in potting soil in a ... 4" (maybe pint?) and left them in my semi-heated basement. (Around 60F)
More grew than did not grow.

post-script: most of mine were taken from refrigerated fruit, though.

4
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: October 14, 2025, 11:54:15 AM »
I've attached photos of another hardy selection: Conestoga 128. The fruit is tart but not bitter. The rind is not outstanding .

"Not outstanding" is high praise for a poncirus descendant. Poncirus's rind is typically described as "unspeakably foul" or "evidence for the existence of Satan."

Are all of these pubescent?

5
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: October 14, 2025, 11:52:04 AM »
Today's taste test of several selections, all of which survived -8°F during the past Winter.

Conestoga 006 is among the hardiest of the selections. It's also the earliest to ripen, as it's beginning to drop fruits.
The flavor is the least acceptable of the 5 fruits picked and tasted today. The bitterness isn't overwhelming, but there's an earthy component in the taste. Highly acidic, as are all of the fruits tested today. This selection is very productive

Conestoga 010
Another very productive selection, as hardy as any of the 5 types tasted today. This is the close second in the agreeable flavors. The seediness is practically equal among all 5 sampled. This one is second in ripening, the fruit tested wasn't quite fully ripe. The tree may be slightly more vigorous than 006.

Conestoga 026
Despite not being fully ripe, this was the best flavored of the 5 fruits,with a very light sweetness being discernable at this stage. It's flavor reminded me of a tart Grapefruit.

Do you think the earthiness might be an aspect of fully-ripening? Sort of like how limes are picked green because they develop off-flavors when fully ripe?

In short -- have you tested a not-fully-ripe Conestoga 6, or a fully-ripe 10 or 26?

6
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Magic cambium
« on: September 24, 2025, 11:26:24 AM »
I'm pulling out all the stops to go to war with the rats--traps, poison, deterrent sprays and paints, whatever it takes.  They dug up and ate the rhizomes as well as the plants themselves--everything from poinsettias to passion flowers.  They chewed through hardware cloth (metal wire) and plastic to get to some of them.  I'm still trying to figure out what to wrap the tree trunks with.  Many of them are grafted low and they gnawed on the branches, so it's not just a matter of a tube wrap.

Sometimes I paint the trunks to protect them from scald, and I thought I might do that and mix capsaicin and mint oil in.  Then wrap with burlap and use one of the many deterrent sprays on that.  I don't know what if any of it will work, though.  I think they're pretty desperate with hunger by the time they go to work on the bark.  So I'm hoping the traps and bait will get them.

I would really like to stop them before that point.  They were willing to eat the fruit before it was ripe, and I got none of it last year.  And there are more plants that really need to be in the greenhouse, but I don't want eaten.

Supposedly copper wire works better than steel wire.

Granted, copper wire might be harder on your plants, too.

8
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: My Prague Citsumas
« on: September 10, 2025, 04:31:29 PM »
It is just very slow to mature, you need to be patient.
When it reaches around 2 meters height, fruits are becoming more abundant and large.

It seems to grow in every direction *except* up!

9
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: very old trifoliate, maybe poncirus
« on: August 29, 2025, 03:16:30 PM »
How tall is it? My 18 year old Flying Dragon is about 10 feet tall. They grow faster as they get older too.

To a point. Flying Dragon is pretty runty even when full-grown, and even species poncirus is shortish.

Longwood Gardens has some poncirus specimens that they date to the early 1980s, so they are about 40-45 years old now. They are probably 12-15 ft tall.

Truck diameter might tell you more, but my tree in SE Pennsylvania has siblings in SW Michigan, and its trunk diameter is 2x those. Indy is both colder and warmer than SW Michigan (Lake Michigan moderates extremes in both directions), so it will probably grow a little faster in the higher summer temps of Indianapolis than it would in Michigan, but a bit less quickly than around Philly, because Philly has both warmer summers and winters.

10
FWIW:

Woodlanders and Madison Citrus sell US-942.

Not sure on seeds, but it can't hurt to ask.

11
Visited those trees this week. They are alive, although still really bitty in size. They survived a prolonged hard freeze without cover this winter, and they are planted in a shady area -- the combination of the two means they are all still runts, especially compared to their sibling seedling in the Philadelphia area. But they are also all alive -- even the one that got nibbled by a rabbit.

That's a heartening result. How old are those plants now?

This is their third year, I think.

I've noticed my poncirus here tends to put on growth flushes when its hot. I do wonder if poncirus needs a fair amount of summer heat, even though it's cold tolerant.

My hardy figs act like that, too.

12


Second year seedlings of Starburst and Cocktail taken from fruit. Both cultivars produce excellent juicy fruits. These trees need Winter protection in my area.

Now I understand the name.

13
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Poncirus Polyandra
« on: August 08, 2025, 03:33:44 PM »
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdfdirect/10.1111/tpj.14993
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0888754323000617#bb0025

Polyandra and trifoliata appear to be closely-related species with a recent population divergence.  (About two million years, which is recent for citrus) Genetic testing does not indicate if one is a mutation of the other, or whether they have an extinct common ancestor.

14
I see lots of posts about needing to shade citrus due to "excessive" heat.  How do they manage that in orchards in AZ and in STX where it often hits triple digits? Is it the pot vs inground that makes the difference?  Or is it acclimation of the plant? I assume adequate watering is occurring or that would be an additional stressor.

I think part of it is also selecting cultivars that can handle that kind of heat.

15
Honestly, for F1 hybrids I'm surprised at how different they all look with no plant exactly like another despite having two dozen of them.

Not that surprising. Many of the famous citranges were just different seedlings from the same two parent trees.

16
I've always found it strange that Morton and Citrangequat Thomasville both resist -15°C.
Not to sidetrack your conversation, but I'm skeptical that Thomasville Citrangequat can resist "-15 °C".

Thomasville is reputed to survive to 5 F, which is -15 C. If mature enough, it will take damage, but survive.

17
I've heard of it surviving 5b, but that was down by Chelsea, which is 6a now. Your hope with hybrids probably lies along the Lake Michigan coast line and only a few miles inland from there, which is 6b. I know poncirus does okay there, because the one I gave my mother is still alive.

Visited those trees this week. They are alive, although still really bitty in size. They survived a prolonged hard freeze without cover this winter, and they are planted in a shady area -- the combination of the two means they are all still runts, especially compared to their sibling seedling in the Philadelphia area. But they are also all alive -- even the one that got nibbled by a rabbit.

18

The real issue is that Poncirus tends to impart a horrible flavor, which is difficult to accurately describe.

Diesel, mixed with pine tar.

If it were only the pine tar, it would be usable. Retsinas are marketable despite the pine flavor.

19
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold Hardy Citrus Experiment Zone7A NJ
« on: June 25, 2025, 12:39:27 PM »
You protected it passively and it died? :O

I even had a 40w heat light in there and it died. I had the lamp high, and while the upper foliage did fine, the lower part of the grafted Thomasville must have froze. Rootstock survived, though. The rootstock was US-942.

So, to summarize:
Thomasville froze.
US-942 survived.
Madison's unlabeled citremon survived.
Prague survived.

Morton died, but I don't think it had anything to do w/ winter. It was dying in the autumn.

20
I just realized there are big differences between the tangerine orange (that's what it's called acidless here) and other oranges. Here we have three types of seeds: the Argentine acidless, the oak orange, and the cara cara orange. The odd thing is that the acidless is white, smooth, and rounded. Could the genetic difference be greater than just a mutation in acidity? Do you have any information on these varieties?

What is the oak orange?

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cold Tolerance after 2025 Freeze
« on: June 23, 2025, 04:46:56 PM »
It was a weird oitcome to say the least.  One of my fig trees was severely damaged but my two seed grown grapefruits were unfazed other than leaf damage at 10 degrees.  My owari satsuma which has been in the ground for nearly 10 years sustained way more damage than those 2 grapefruit trees.

How big was the fig?

22
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold Hardy Citrus Experiment Zone7A NJ
« on: June 23, 2025, 04:45:40 PM »
I'm not in New Jersey, but I am in 7A, just across the Delaware River in Pennsylvania.


Thomasville took some damage lower on the tree, because the heat lights were at the top of the cage.

Updating this.

The Thomasville ended up dying, but the rootstock is alive and well.

23
My neighbour wants coldhardy figs (south Germany). Anyone here sells cuttings/trees?
what zone are you in?

24
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: US 812
« on: June 02, 2025, 10:15:48 AM »
FWIW, my Thomasville from Madison last year was on US-942.

My replacement this year arrived on US-812.

25
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: US 812
« on: May 31, 2025, 08:37:23 PM »
I am trying US 812 in my yard. I planted it this year after buying it from Madison. I am hoping it is hardier than US 942 (another Sunki-trifoliate hybrid), as that had disappointing hardiness this past winter.

What is your experience with US-942 and it’s cold hardiness?

It survived 7F for me.

I had assumed the rootstock for my Thomasville (which didn’t make it) was poncirus, but after checking the tag it was US-942. The rootstock is alive and well.


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