The Tropical Fruit Forum

I use citrus type fertilizer. I found that when they are young they don't hold much fruit but once they get bigger almost all the fruit will set so you probably just need more time. I have a yellow and a red and the red one is like 20 times bigger than the yellow and they are just over a year old. Lots of fruit setting now, probably a couple hundred.

I have had some success in rooting the little suckers that popup around the base of the plant. Root them like any cutting, but takes longer.

Ya I agree, it looks like something ate it while it was small, fruit healed itself, couldn't grow new skin so left with a growing hole with scar tissue. My stone fruit all look like that when that happens down to the cracked appearance in those photos.

I just got in some more Buddy tape..

Same specs as before, price slightly less.

$28US each and flat rate shipping for any quantity is $10 flat via UPS ground (3-5 days typical delivery time)

The nodes between the petiole and the main stem are where new branches come out from. If you remove the leaf/petiole by snapping it off, most likely the nub will start growing into a new branch

On some of my seedlings, I noticed that there are large "new growth" looking nubs that grow between the main stem and leaf stem of the leaves. Some more prominent than others, they pretty much shrink/ dry up as the leaves mature downwards.  What does this mean?


also these are very young seedlings, definitely not flowers

I think you got a bad one. I have a grafted Makok in a container, bought it last year only a couple feet tall and its put on probably 100+ leaves since then and has flowers/fruits and thats inside a greenhouse too.

It's a Makok. I heard about Silas Woods being slow but I never heard the same about Makok. It's not rootbound and gets full sun. I just keep telling myself that it is adjusting or that "by the 3rd year they leap" saying. The seedlings I started last year are starting to catch up. I'm half tempted to graft it on to one of them for the vigor. Maybe the nursery just had crappy rootstock.
Trees are so expensive now I really don't want to try to buy another.

I have some available.. They are off my main Acerola plant, I don't think it is a dwarf but not sure if it is Florida Sweet

Speaking from colder climate areas only.. But I find the larger guavas that ripen during the winter months aren't very flavourful/sweet compared to the ones in the summer/fall even though they might look the same. so I'm sure you will be even more pleased when you harvest them again later in the year.

The smaller ones though I find don't change much in taste.

So yesterday i ate the last fruit of the sumo type guava plant, it was a late to set fruit that was prolly half the size of the big ones. Yet it was the best one from all the fruit i ate from this particular plant, was sweeter, juicier and softer in general ,even thought it looked greener than the past ones.
I feel that the huge ones had some kind of a defect , or maybe the huge size didnt let them build up their flavour pottential, i hope this year to have a more abundant crop, so i can get sick of them and let some fruit hang on the plants till fully mature, i cant control myself to not pick them prematurely when there are just a few ...

Yes kind of in the transition from green to bark. I found that if you stick a whole bunch of small cuttings in (Leave maybe 4-5 half cut leaves on the branch) with rooting hormone, bag them for humidity, after a few days the leaves will drop off half the cuttings and you can toss those ones, the rest will probably root in a couple weeks

Quote from: MisterPlantee on March 16, 2022, 08:53:13 AM

Cuttings work for me too. I've used small 4-5" long semi-mature branches with rooting hormone, about half take

does semi mature branch mean an old growth that is still green, but withoud shedding bark ?

I think you should be good planting it outside and leaving it in the ground since they are said to be good down to -12C. Probably covering them up during the extra cold days is all you need and then soon you will be rewarded with a giant Feijoa tree. Do you grow Olives as well in your climate outside? I think they have similar temperature tolerance, maybe a little lower too

Quote from: MisterPlantee on March 11, 2022, 11:43:51 AM

Can you just grow in a pot and move outside to a garage in the spring or just leave outside when it is within the survival temperature range? Feijoas do well in pots.

If your greenhouse goes to 4C at the worst it might not be enough. Chilling hours don't count unless it is continuously below the temperature, a few hours a night doesn't count

Quote from: Plantinyum on March 10, 2022, 01:33:46 AM

Quote from: MisterPlantee on March 09, 2022, 10:06:03 AM

Yes pretty sure your outside ones will start leafing out once spring comes. I did notice that it took quite a while for the buds to come out on the one that lost off its leaves, slow but then by start of summer it was all leafed out and flowering.

I haven't had problems just yanking my Feijoa from the comforts of the greenhouse and directly into below freezing weather outside (About 20F is when I would bring into the garage for the night). The worst I've seen is the newest leaves at the tips might fall off.. That way I am sure to get all the cold chill hours.

Quote from: vnomonee on March 08, 2022, 02:11:31 PM

Quote from: MisterPlantee on March 07, 2022, 01:33:41 PM

Slightly different, but I brought my Feijoa out too fast in the spring last year and all the leaves burned brown to a crisp. I let the leaves fall off naturally and it came back bushier and bigger than ever

Good to hear that it can recover from losing all of the leaves. I am slowly acclimating my 2 potted feijoas. I have them under shade when they are outside I only bring them in if there is a freeze. Hoping to get enough chill hours to flower since my indoor temps never go below 60

 Inside right now because the wind is pretty bad

What is the needed chill hour requirement and at what temperature ? I was thinking to plant one in my gh where this year it went to 4 C at the worst (heated). There are tropicals inside so i should keep it warm and prolly not much colder than that.

Mister Plantee, well i am growing 3 plants in pots, i wanted to unleash one of them in the gh to have a big fruiting plant, but will continue to grow them in pots then, prolly will plant one in the garden if i find a suitable  spot.
The gh will prolly get warmer for next winter since i will be setting a radiator heating system there this summer, will skip the feijoa and fix on the tropicals instead for the gh.

There has been a bunch of recent research and trials on using "ol" oils extracted from common herbs as they exhibit powerful nematicidal activity. In particular Carvacrol from Oregano and Geraniol from Geranium (and other plants). If you do some searching on the internet, you can see the scientific research and results on it.. I will link one article. They basically inhibit hatching of the eggs and also kill the nematode itself. Up to 90% effective depending on the oil.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8309233/

There are some commercially available nematicides based on these and other "ol" type oils but I find it is a lot cheaper to just buy the actual essential oils from a reputable fragrance/flavor store online, mix with an emulsifier and just soak.

My wife grows lots of succulents and we use it on them to get control. I've also used on my plants with no ill effects other than the greenhouse smelling like a herb shop for a day.

I take it they found root knot nematodes in the roots?