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Have 100s of cherimoya seeds sprouting mostly pierce, booth and dr.white
Let me know if anyone needs them…
Curious as to what method are you using to sprout them?
Thanks
I wish I was local to you. I need to plant some seeds for rootstock.
Anyone else battling slugs this spring in Socal? They've totally infested my container seedlings. They're on a table and the legs have tanglefoot. I've got a few slugs with beer traps. But, I'm losing the battle. They're eating all the new spring young leaves. Any ideas?
Adam
It may have dropped leaves for spring dormancy. Are buds swelling? Full sun is usually not a problem if you acclimate the plant.most of them had 2-3 leaves and fell down after 2-3 days on direct sun for 4+ hrs, it looks like now new buds are emerging, (but the tip bent downwards, I believe it's normal for cherimoyas)
How long does it take to grow cherimoya from seed to fruit? Did anyone try it and how's its fruit quality?
Any suggestions for good variety to grow from seeds?
Under good conditions, I've had them flower at 3-4 years. I've heard a few folks speculate that seedlings' fruit improve as the tree matures, and not to give up on them if they're a little bland the first few years it fruits.
In regards to the original question, Pierce cherimoya has been my favorite so far (California, 9b). It has a great, sweet, complex pineapple flavor. Honeyhart grown at a friend's place (also 9b) has also been very good. Cherimoyas multigraft easily, so getting started with a seedling or grafted plant, then multigrafting when it's about 3-4' tall is an easy way to taste a bunch of varieties and choose you own favorite.
A couple things about doing it that way. The cherimoya tree gets pretty large before fruiting. Like 10ftx10ft with a 6in+ trunk. And at this point they are a lot more difficult to top work than say an avocado. They dont like to be stumped when they are this large size. They can but it seems to generate new suckers from the ground and the old stump can die off. Just something to keep in mind. The variety change over on these trees is sort of a pain. I have several i need to do and theres not a great way to do it.
on pretty much everything about Fruit trees! 
I think the one with little bumps could be Dr white although I have seen them with bigger bumps. The smooth fruit could be booth variety or they could be seedlings too.Yes! it's Booth and Dr. White. I checked with the person today....
In my observation, SoCal 10a, no-way comparable to SoFlo. 10a.....My zone is now 10B but I will continue to grow like 10a. No soursop, sugar apple and star apple for me.This is what makes me think there is more to plant cold hardiness than temperature, I went 10a to 10b, but have never lost a soursop, sugar apple and star apple to cold.
The new map gave me a downgrade, pushing the 9a-9b border farther up the hill from my shivering avocados and white sapotes.I believe for Mango tree once the base of the trunk is 2+ inches thick, I can take high 20s overnight. I don't think, young plants survive low 30s. In general they can easily manage 100s.
It doesn't quite make sense. In 6 years (short, I realize), it has never dropped below 27.5 here, and usually the lowest low is about 29. I have closely studied the new map and compared it to topographic details of my area, where 9a and 9b interweave like the edges of puzzle pieces. There are frosty valley bottoms that got 9b status with the new map and hillsides above that for some reason are in 9a. There is also a known frost pocket, in the Salmon Creek watershed, that is the coldest non-mountain spot in Sonoma County, with temps every year dropping below 20 degrees -- and it's designated 10a.
Funny what you say about mangoes disliking temps in the low 30s. Some people say they are much hardier, able to tolerate mid-to-high 20s on occasion. That's the narrative people like me must believe, but it seems like a stretch.
The map for Southern California is interesting since the update. There is actually pockets of zone 11a in Coronado, around the San Diego airport, and Point Loma areas. Also, LA has a pocket in southwest area and Catalina island as well. While it may technically be true, I feel like they are still 10B because of wind chill and rain we get during the winter time.Also, interesting to see 1990 map had 11a from Santa Monica to tip of Malibu (much wider than 2012) The same area back into 11a again in 2023.
Love_Tropic,
The base of the trunk appears to have been weed-whacked months ago.
The roots then starved, and they are now being eaten by fungus.
Throw out. Try again.
Peat moss is good, but straight peat moss does not have enough drainage. We always included pine bark fines. They are also acid but help promote better drainage.Thank you! unfortunately could not find any pine bark fines at local stores in OC area, soCal. Planning to add pumice for good Drainage and may be adding sulfur to potting mix and watering with little vinegar may help...
