The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: spaugh on December 01, 2016, 05:24:45 PM
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Picked up these 2 herimoya trees at Lowes today. 35$ each. One is labeled "vietnamese" and the other is a "honeyheart". Question: is it ok to go ahead and top them now? I probably wont plant them for a few months. They are just one stick now. They look like they need to be topped. What do you guys say?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5474/30992632290_9c9ccdf7e2_b.jpg)
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Dang that's a nice view (the mountains, not the moyas :-).
The one on the left is saying "water me, please."
I would personally probably wait until spring to top them.
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Spaugh,
Typical cherimoya pruning time in Southern California is in April.
Sometimes people prune a second time in July/August.
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Jeff makes a good point. It's probably not going to grow much in this cool weather, so let it get stronger with those extra leaves. Once the temperature rises, top it so it'll grow side branches.
Keep in mind that the buds are right under the leaf petioles. So you'll have to pull out some leaves for the new shoots to grow when you want them to.
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"Honeyhart" in deference to Orton Englehart who registered the tree. It's a shame certain nurseries name trees incorrectly and refuse to fix their error.
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Ithanks for the advice. I will check the label again, it may be labeled honeyhart.
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As you guys can see, my yard is quite exposed on top of a hill and not many barriers around. My avocado trees are taking the wind and brutal heat ok but I am trying to figure out if the cherimoyas can take the elements as well or do they need to be babies a bit more. I have some land down lower on the hill but it requires clearing out the native vegetation to use. So it's a lot of work to try and shelter my trees.
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"Honeyhart" in deference to Orton Englehart who registered the tree. It's a shame certain nurseries name trees incorrectly and refuse to fix their error.
Remember the Engleharts? I bought fruit from them back in the 70's. Always super-sweet. The fruit, that is! They were a little eccentric, and silent Orton was always running around in the background while Ann dealt with customers. What a huge variety of fruit they grew!
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"Honeyhart" in deference to Orton Englehart who registered the tree. It's a shame certain nurseries name trees incorrectly and refuse to fix their error.
Yep, its labeled "honey heart" :( oh well...
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It's a shame Orton cherimoya is not propagated. it's consider by many as the best cherimoya. Ott is another underrated cultivar that's been lost in the annals of time but it's appreciated by anyone who tries it
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Besides Honeyhart, Orton, there is Oxhart cherimoya. He also registered Creamhart avocado. It's worth a look at Google search for the name Orton Englehart to see his contributions. Sadly, some nurseries just won't use the correct name. Oh well.
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Besides Honeyhart, Orton, there is Oxhart cherimoya. He also registered Creamhart avocado. It's worth a look at Google search for the name Orton Englehart to see his contributions. Sadly, some nurseries just won't use the correct name. Oh well.
Oxhart is a mediocre fruit but there are a lot of great cherimoyas that the nurseries overlook. Here is one that's the father of Lisa atemoya and one of the sweetest I've had: Libby. It's very early, late October, super producer and as sweet as Pierce or Sabor
Libby brix 28
(https://s15.postimg.cc/tx5aygolj/IMG_2562.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tx5aygolj/)
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Oxhart didn't taste superior to me either from what I remember. The protrusions are second to El Bumpo. The skin is more prone to darkening.
It's good that you guys bring up these history.
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For starts, they're rootbound. I'd plant them in the spring or until danger of frost is over. If that's now, then plant. Wait until they're established to top. This thread might help.
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=21887.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=21887.0)
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For starts, they're rootbound. I'd plant them in the spring or until danger of frost is over. If that's now, then plant. Wait until they're established to top. This thread might help.
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=21887.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=21887.0)
Ideally you want to plant them in early fall so they establish roots ithru the winter but I've planted cherimoyas, mangos , avocados jackfruit other stuff in December and January. As Mark said wait until the arctic blast pass on Tuesday.
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JF's spot on especially for us folks who have hot summers. Best time to plant a deciduous tree like a peach or pecan is in the fall. Best time to plant an evergreen is fall thru spring IMO. I like planting dormant bare root trees in Sept. - November. Bare root insures a good inspection (and treatment) of the root system and dormancy insures there's no shock.
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I need to make more room to plant these trees. I have endless space here but it needs a deer fence. Here is a photo of my avocado area. Im going to fence in an are about 3 times this size and connect it to my 2 existing fenced areas.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5667/31299829611_878d7e6bd9_b.jpg)
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I need to make more room to plant these trees. I have endless space here but it needs a deer fence. Here is a photo of my avocado area. Im going to fence in an are about 3 times this size and connect it to my 2 existing fenced areas.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5667/31299829611_878d7e6bd9_b.jpg)
Wow, what a challenge. I have deer fence and recommend high tensile 8' although you may need taller. Would think that a deer under pressure might be able to jump from the top down and over. Do you have plenty of cheap water?
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My fence is tenax 7' and it seems to keep them out fine. They wont jump it on a slope. Everything here is on a slope pretty much. The deer arent that big I think also. I never get a good look though they usually come after dark. I have a 150gpm well that costs 20$ a month to run during summer. I will try and get some better photos of the property when more fences start going up.
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Wow, nice lot's of space for sure and slope which is nice for drainage of cold air, thanks for posting spaugh, you've got a challenge ahead of you for sure but looks like your off to a good start! Do you have any white sapote yet? if not you need some!
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no sopote yet. need a fence then I can start planting like crazy soon. i actually tried sopote from the farmers market and it had a bad taste. but it may have been over ripe.
here is a photo of a horse pen that Ive converted to a garden. And a photo of the top 3rd of the property. the plan is to connect the 2 fenced areas in the photo and start using the cleared area for growing. That will give me another half an acre to grow on the hill where its cleared. If that gets full, Ive got 7 more acres around the water tabk and down the hill where you cant see. The natural vegetation has to be cleared and fencing put up and 2" pvc feeder pipe run down there. Its a lot of work to put in more stuff here.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5712/31415640975_2051595979_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5777/30608647573_29f5cabeaa_b.jpg)
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spaugh,
Where are you located in San Diego County? North of Escondido?
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Southeast of escondido 20 minutes
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By the way is that arctic blast a joke? Its like 75 degrees out. Been waiting all year for this weather. Should still be around 70 here for Tuesdays arctic blast!
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I have a 150gpm well that costs 20$ a month to run during summer.
Huh? I thought there was little to no underground water left in SoCal? I mean if the alphabet 6:00 news spins it as such it must be right, verdad? ;)
What a piece of paradise you have or rather made for yourself.
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Underground water shortage issues are the largest in the Central Valley.
Southern California is low, but still okay since water can still be brought in from up north and the eastern Sierra and the Colorado river.... The northern CA part had decent rainfall last year and a good start this year.
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I have a 150gpm well that costs 20$ a month to run during summer.
Huh? I thought there was little to no underground water left in SoCal? I mean if the alphabet 6:00 news spins it as such it must be right, verdad? ;)
What a piece of paradise you have or rather made for yourself.
they don't understand where water comes from. The talking heads and politicians are completely clueless. Have a look at primary water institute or "bill cox primary water wells". There are lots of wells making 1000gpm around here. No tritium, never seen the hydrologic cycle yet.
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The central valley doesnt have the geology to tap into water that is coming up from hundreds of miles deep. They are sitting on a secondary water aquifer (flood plain) that has a finite supply of water without rainfall.
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Well all 6 cherimoya trees I planted over fall and winter made it. Every single one of them was NOT rootbound at all. They all pretty much fell apart when taken out of the nursery pots and I was concerned I damaged roots etc transplanting them. But they have all started to push new branches and leaves out. They all got beaten and battered in the rain/wind/cold and had dropped all leaves. I thought they might have died. But it looks like they are all alive and well. Temperatures here the last 6 days: 90, 92, 95, 92, 90, 88. The heat is making everything grow. I planted 6 mangos over winter also and all are growing and budding now too.
So the question is, is now a good time to go ahead and trim them down and start shaping them?
Varieties of cherimoyas planted:
2 honeyhart
1 vietnamese
1 Dr White
1 Fino De Jete
1 Booth
If these do well as my avocados I will probably put in 10 or 20 more of them.
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Cherimoyas grow very vertically so cut them down low now before we get extreme heat which will burn your plants. I recommend heading back the main trunk to about 2 feet to promote low scaffold branches for easier pollination and harvesting. Just make sure you Don't cut below the graft line. If you cut now, it should allow your trees to grow leaves before burning temperatures hit.
If you are going to multigraft, I highly recommend you graft very low. What I do for my friends is top to about 18-24 inches and wait for new growth below the cut. You will get many new branches arising from below the cut. I select about 3-5 branches that are evenly spaced to be used as future scaffold branches. I would graft these new branches(future scaffold branches) so that they are low.
Simon
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I cut the head main trunk off at 12 to 18 inches, let it put no more than 3 branches, then each branch allowed to grow no more than 18-24". cap everything at about 6 feet by heavy pruning. every year trees get to 9 feet, get chopped back to 6 feet.
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Something feels really wrong about stumping the trees. You guys are certain more branches will form even if there are currently no bud sites that low?
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By the way, I am not really planning to do multi grafting. Or any grafting. With grafted trees costing 25$ at the nursery and acres of land there isnt much point for me to bother I think. I already have more projects than I want here.
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Yup, as long as your tree is healthy, even if there are no visible buds, there is an excellent probability that the tree will sprout multiple lower growth from below the cut.
Even if you don't plan on grafting, you should head back the trees. Trust us on this! You don't know how many trees I've had to correct. The owners usually don't want to bring it as low as I suggest so they top off at 4 feet instead of 2 or less and then within a year, the tree is about 10 feet tall or taller.
There is actually a pretty big group of OG rare fruit growers that recently volunteered at a cherimoya orchard to bring down the height of several monstrous trees. The trees became too large at this orchard and the trees became very unproductive. Most the vigor went into vegetative growth and the owner never re invigorated the trees with annual pruning because they were too tall by that point.
Please visit Exotica Nursery or the huge cherimoya tree in front of the Whaley House to see how large these trees can become. Think huge Avocado or mango tree grown in Florida or India.
Simon
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Cherimoyas grow very vertically so cut them down low now before we get extreme heat which will burn your plants. I recommend heading back the main trunk to about 2 feet to promote low scaffold branches for easier pollination and harvesting. Just make sure you Don't cut below the graft line. If you cut now, it should allow your trees to grow leaves before burning temperatures hit.
If you are going to multigraft, I highly recommend you graft very low. What I do for my friends is top to about 18-24 inches and wait for new growth below the cut. You will get many new branches arising from below the cut. I select about 3-5 branches that are evenly spaced to be used as future scaffold branches. I would graft these new branches(future scaffold branches) so that they are low.
Simon
Simon,
how long do you let the new growth grow out before grafting if we want to multi graft?
and how long do you let that grow out before pruning and how far back do you prune? a
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Ok I lopped them all off at 24in or lower. Do my mangos need the same treatment? A few of them are 4 or 5ft tall before any branching.
Exotica is a jungle, been there seen that.
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Cherimoyas grow very vertically so cut them down low now before we get extreme heat which will burn your plants. I recommend heading back the main trunk to about 2 feet to promote low scaffold branches for easier pollination and harvesting. Just make sure you Don't cut below the graft line. If you cut now, it should allow your trees to grow leaves before burning temperatures hit.
If you are going to multigraft, I highly recommend you graft very low. What I do for my friends is top to about 18-24 inches and wait for new growth below the cut. You will get many new branches arising from below the cut. I select about 3-5 branches that are evenly spaced to be used as future scaffold branches. I would graft these new branches(future scaffold branches) so that they are low.
Simon
Simon,
how long do you let the new growth grow out before grafting if we want to multi graft?
and how long do you let that grow out before pruning and how far back do you prune? a
After I thin the new growth to just what I want to keep, I let them grow until the diameter of the future scaffold branches are the approximate width of my scion material. I usually leave 1 or 2 more branches than I need in case of failed grafts. If I want 3 varieties, I'll leave about 5 branches and graft doubles of the varieties I really want.
I usually let the branches grow about 18-28 inches and prune. Prune away crossing and thin branches because these thin branches produce inferior fruit. If your tree is newly and appears weak, you may opt to let it grow naturally and establish before starting with o shape the tree. I usually shape immediately because I choose healthy stock to start with.
Simon
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6 out of 6 of my cherimoya trees got lopped off and all are now shotting out new growth. Several already have little flowers. They have only been in the ground a few months. Will post photos in a month after they have grown a foot or 2.
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The Vietnamese could actually be Dr White but I'm not positive, just something I heard through the grapevine. I would recommend El Bumpo, Orton and Pierce if you don't already have those.
Simon
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The Vietnamese could actually be Dr White but I'm not positive, just something I heard through the grapevine. I would recommend El Bumpo, Orton and Pierce if you don't already have those.
Simon
I dont have those types. Going to give them a year and see how they take the summer heat here and then plant more next year of they are good. I will get those types then if all is well. So far they are looking happy. Avocados are doing well. Mangos are still dormant mostly. Waiting for them to start flushing.
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My El Bumpo survived the winter outdoors in 9b, we'd have temperatures drop down to 26-28ºF this year it was crazy.
I forgot that I left it outside the greenhouse for a few days and surprisingly it made it.
The leaves did all freeze up and dropped, today everything is sprouting and flowering.
They do grow much faster when kept inside a controlled greenhouse.
In fact, they love it.
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Something feels really wrong about stumping the trees. You guys are certain more branches will form even if there are currently no bud sites that low?
Absolutely. Simon is spot on whether it be cherimoya, mango, or avocado. I/we have cleft of veneer grafted to the watershoots that arise often. I stubbed a Waldin rootstock, waited and selected 6 good watershoots and grafted a cocktail tree last year. All 6 scions took, 4 varieties and are fruiting like crazy. Just gave away 15, 3/8" thick sticks of Ardith for this Saturday's scion exchange in Austin as an example of the vigor.
Here's Sir Prize setting a lot of fruit. Took the shot yesterday. (No, I won't let the trees hold a bunch of fruit if any).
(https://s23.postimg.cc/85di8pywn/Sir_Prize_April.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/85di8pywn/)
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They do grow much faster when kept inside a controlled greenhouse.
In fact, they love it.
I hope so. We have Pierce, El Bumpo, Selma, Fino De Jete and a few others that have been recently grafted from JF's offers.
I let my greenhouse drop to 34F every winter which should be good for cherimoyas, right? I'm just worried about our summer heat which lasts about 4-5 months out of the year.
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This little guy was 5 or 6 ft tall. It was pictured in the 1st post of this thread many months ago. Lopped it off a month or so ago when we talked about it and it is growing nicely.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2910/33992595626_e4e710f2ff_b.jpg)
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I'm in a similar climate and have been growing Cherimoya for several years. The 1-2 year old seedlings like overhead winter protection but when I put them in the greenhouse it is too humid in the cold of winter and they die from wet humid soil conditions. Temperature drops to 26 to 28 degrees is quite typical in different parts of the Bay Area.
Cherimoya leaves molt overly April so perhaps your leaves did not freeze but are molting for the season.
My cherimoya tree's much prefer the great outdoors.
My El Bumpo survived the winter outdoors in 9b, we'd have temperatures drop down to 26-28ºF this year it was crazy.
I forgot that I left it outside the greenhouse for a few days and surprisingly it made it.
The leaves did all freeze up and dropped, today everything is sprouting and flowering.
They do grow much faster when kept inside a controlled greenhouse.
In fact, they love it.
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This little guy was 5 or 6 ft tall. It was pictured in the 1st post of this thread many months ago. Lopped it off a month or so ago when we talked about it and it is growing nicely.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2910/33992595626_e4e710f2ff_b.jpg)
If you want good shape, dont let low branches get longer than 12 inches. normally I let it grow 18 inches, then I cut at 12-14 inches, and remove leaf exposing node on either side for it to start branching out.
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If you want good shape, dont let low branches get longer than 12 inches. normally I let it grow 18 inches, then I cut at 12-14 inches, and remove leaf exposing node on either side for it to start branching out.
Sounds good.
So you strip leaves on these even after the spring to encourage more growth?
I started a new garden this year and have 5 cherimoyas that I grafted various varieties onto. Trying to do it correctly from the start using the current best practice. They're all 2-3 ft tall right now.
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If you want good shape, dont let low branches get longer than 12 inches. normally I let it grow 18 inches, then I cut at 12-14 inches, and remove leaf exposing node on either side for it to start branching out.
Sounds good.
So you strip leaves on these even after the spring to encourage more growth?
I started a new garden this year and have 5 cherimoyas that I grafted various varieties onto. Trying to do it correctly from the start using the current best practice. They're all 2-3 ft tall right now.
I just wait for the tree to tell me. Once I see it discoloring the leaves, I let about half turn yellow so it pulls good energy and then strip them all off. New growth will be there in no time.
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Pierce is still king with 30brix
(https://s30.postimg.cc/iihri8mt9/IMG_4150.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iihri8mt9/)
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Pierce is still king with 30brix
(https://s30.postimg.cc/iihri8mt9/IMG_4150.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iihri8mt9/)
That's a huge one JF. A friend did get a big 6lb AP like that at the first Irvine cherimoya tasting years ago. 2011 maybe. Those were the good years.
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If you want good shape, dont let low branches get longer than 12 inches. normally I let it grow 18 inches, then I cut at 12-14 inches, and remove leaf exposing node on either side for it to start branching out.
Sounds good.
So you strip leaves on these even after the spring to encourage more growth?
I started a new garden this year and have 5 cherimoyas that I grafted various varieties onto. Trying to do it correctly from the start using the current best practice. They're all 2-3 ft tall right now.
I just wait for the tree to tell me. Once I see it discoloring the leaves, I let about half turn yellow so it pulls good energy and then strip them all off. New growth will be there in no time.
If there is no discoloration you also strip off the leaves after pruning the scaffold branches? if so, does it comme off easily without injuring the petiole spot? i have a cherimoya tree at the same stage of spaugh's tree and i am also interested by the detailed technique to shape it correctly.
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Regarding dont let them get more than 12" before retrimming I figured I would maybe hit them again in a few months then again at the end of summer. If these trees grow like my avocados they will be 10ft in 6 months. Plants seem to grow like crazy here. Full sun on top of a south facing hill in well draining DG and nice clean groundwater is the recipe for happy plants it seems.
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By the way what type of fertilizer do cherimoyas need? High nitrogen citrus/avocado blend ok? Any special micronutrients they need like zinc?
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Pierce is still king with 30brix
(https://s30.postimg.cc/iihri8mt9/IMG_4150.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iihri8mt9/)
Damn, that thing is dangerous!!!!!!!! Does it have good acid to offset the high brix?
Again, how does cherimoya do in high heat, like 95 - 102 F for short periods?
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I thought they don't like high heat at all, that they prefer cool coastal climates (of Southern California, or high tropical mountain valleys in South America)?
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Mark & John
They do very well in 100F temps. We have them fruiting 60-75 miles inland.
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I thought they don't like high heat at all, that they prefer cool coastal climates (of Southern California, or high tropical mountain valleys in South America)?
True, but I'm asking SoCal growers how their's fared coming out of the recent heat spells. It's my understanding you west coast guys had some really warm and hot days the last few years even when it should have been cool/cold.
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Mark & John
They do very well in 100F temps. We have them fruiting 60-75 miles inland.
Alright!!! Plan to install flash nozzle cooling system, just haven't got around to it.
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Mark & John
They do very well in 100F temps. We have them fruiting 60-75 miles inland.
That's great. I wasn't sure.
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If you want good shape, dont let low branches get longer than 12 inches. normally I let it grow 18 inches, then I cut at 12-14 inches, and remove leaf exposing node on either side for it to start branching out.
Sounds good.
So you strip leaves on these even after the spring to encourage more growth?
I started a new garden this year and have 5 cherimoyas that I grafted various varieties onto. Trying to do it correctly from the start using the current best practice. They're all 2-3 ft tall right now.
I just wait for the tree to tell me. Once I see it discoloring the leaves, I let about half turn yellow so it pulls good energy and then strip them all off. New growth will be there in no time.
If there is no discoloration you also strip off the leaves after pruning the scaffold branches? if so, does it comme off easily without injuring the petiole spot? i have a cherimoya tree at the same stage of spaugh's tree and i am also interested by the detailed technique to shape it correctly.
Mine discolors every year, but if it didn't, the leaves pinch easily and you can prune them off too if you're uncomfortable with peeling them back. I find once they're expiring, they come off easily.
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Spaugh, why plant some Eucalyptus on your borders for wind protection? Most of the Avocado groves east of Irvine have old gum trees planted for just that. It may help to create your own microclimate. Chris
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I could certainly put in eucalyptus for some wind shelter. I have the cherimoyas and avocados tucked down in a little somewhat sheltered area though. Id probably have to put in a ton of trees to make a wind break. And Im in an extreme wildfire alley so eucalyptus isnt the best trees to have in a fire storm. The sap turns into napalm. I will try and post more photos of my grow area soon. Ive got almost an acre deer fenced now. And half of that is unplanted. At this point, Im pretty much done planting. If the cherimoyas do well then maybe I can plant half an acre or so of them for profit.
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Someone was asking for photos of the topped cherimoyas. Here are 4 of my trees all planted over winter and topped a month or 2 ago. They should pick up the pace when it heats up and they get some fertilizer. They looked like little dead twigs after takig a harsh winter.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4186/34322817190_412a721381_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4191/34666862546_ceedacfc13_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4189/34576388211_bcbb2e3ff4_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4157/34576384741_34ba5aa22e_b.jpg)
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Get ready to tip those new growths! Keep your canopy low as the fruiting wood quickly creeps up. Smaller bushy trees are much easier to hand pollinate and harvest.
Simon
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Get ready to tip those new growths! Keep your canopy low as the fruiting wood quickly creeps up. Smaller bushy trees are much easier to hand pollinate and harvest.
Simon
How long do you recommend tipping them at these days? I have 5 small plants like this planted in a tight zigzag row that I'm hoping to keep small.
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Thanks spaugh for the pics. Mine is also at exactly the same stage after pugging it 45 days ago, so we are on the good pace as a i see.
I am interested also to know the detailed next step. Could we just cut the branches without stripping those healthy green leaves or is it necessary to remove them for letting new branches grow?
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Get ready to tip those new growths! Keep your canopy low as the fruiting wood quickly creeps up. Smaller bushy trees are much easier to hand pollinate and harvest.
Simon
How long do you recommend tipping them at these days? I have 5 small plants like this planted in a tight zigzag row that I'm hoping to keep small.
I'd probably go about 18-24 inches but it depends on the vigor of the tree and grafted variety. If the tree is vigorous like a Dr White or even a Pierce, I would keep it smaller. The branch highest up and most vertical will usually take over as the central leader so once it shows itself, keep it under control.
Some instances where a dominant branch may not take over is when you severely top an established tree or if the rootstock is less vigorous. When you severely top an established tree, you will get many new water shoots directly beneath the cut and because there are so many and they are so close together, I've noticed that they generally grow at about the same rate. I'm definitely not an Annona expert but I've grown enough monstrous trees to know what one should not do.
Simon
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Thanks spaugh for the pics. Mine is also at exactly the same stage after pugging it 45 days ago, so we are on the good pace as a i see.
I am interested also to know the detailed next step. Could we just cut the branches without stripping those healthy green leaves or is it necessary to remove them for letting new branches grow?
I think I will just top them again in a month or 2. Not planning on stripping any leaves off.
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I noticed that some of the trees throw out 2 new shoots at each node and others send only one. The 2nd photo above is a good example. Does anyone know whats going on with that? Ahould I thin to one shoot per branch site?
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I noticed that some of the trees throw out 2 new shoots at each node and others send only one. The 2nd photo above is a good example. Does anyone know whats going on with that? Ahould I thin to one shoot per branch site?
That's natural. Some growers use that like grapevines to generate renewal branches for fruiting. Have one year old shoot fruit while letting a new one grow to fruit next year. Cut the current fruiting shoot off next year or after 2 years. It keeps the permanent tree small. It's just another idea you could try if you want. Or remove one if it's growing in the wrong direction.
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Thanks spaugh for the pics. Mine is also at exactly the same stage after pugging it 45 days ago, so we are on the good pace as a i see.
I am interested also to know the detailed next step. Could we just cut the branches without stripping those healthy green leaves or is it necessary to remove them for letting new branches grow?
I think I will just top them again in a month or 2. Not planning on stripping any leaves off.
Hi spaugh, just to let you know, i tipped one of my cherimoyas yesterday (similar to yours) and i did strip off 3 leaves below each cut to test the result before doing it to my other cherimoya. The leaves went without any resistance, even though they were perfectly green, i mean no sign of any discolration or aging of the leaves. There is no fiber that can peal off the stem while taking the leave off. So if you were worried about harming the stem (that was my case) when stripping the leaves i can assure you that they just clipp off like a lego piece lol. I hope new branches will grow rapidly from these cuts.
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Cool 8)
Mine all look great and starting to really stretch. They probably need to be pruned again too.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4272/35195225551_528fca02ea_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4230/34514753443_3a56b2d33a_b.jpg)
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Updated photo of the cherimoya trees. They hae taken the recent heat wave well. For those not growing them, the tips always look droopy. They have plenty of water and look happy in the heat. It was over 108 all afternoon yesterday and 105 today. Trees don't seem to care.
To behlgarden thanks for saying to remove the leaves on nodes after topping. I tried some branches with and some without doing this and the difference is huge. The branches with leaves removed start regrowing in just a week or 2. The others just sit and dont grow.
I planted a few more trees over spring and summer and am up to 9 trees.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4409/36532543940_5e6b691d94_b.jpg)
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Your trees look great! You'll be holding cherimoya tastings soon:)
Simon
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Nice update Spaugh, your tree looks great, the leaves look like they are bigger than your dog's head!! but i think it is an optical illusion.
Me too i took some pics this morning of my cherimoya that was suffering for its second flush to update my own thread, i will post it later. For my case i think it didn't handle heat as well as your trees, because since i put a shading structure around it, the new leaves started to push greener and bigger.
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The leaf size surprized me too, they get really big. I was also surprised they take the heat so well also. Was worried it would be too hot here but seems ok so far. Not sure if the fruit is more sensitive to it than the foliage.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4420/36768763202_e8ce0b3ca4_b.jpg)
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Heres a recent photo. Trees did pretty good for their first summer. I have been pruning constantly every few weeks. Any long branches I tip and strip. Hopefully Im not going overboard with the tipping.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4481/37963300136_f5e65097e0_b.jpg)
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Beauty!
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Compact, bushy and healthy looking cherimoya tree;
Wished I read this thread before I planted mine;
Good job, Spaugh! :)
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Hey its never to late to pug it and start over. I know at some point it becomes too painful to do that.
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Spaugh is absolutely correct. You can chop it down to knee level around April/May and it will sprout many new branches as long as the tree is healthy.
Simon
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Cherimoya Killer
Anona Rosada
It taste like it’s whipped and airiness of strawberry shortcake with tones of raspberries, amazing !
(https://s1.postimg.cc/1cnrg6dw97/1610_BD2_E-8032-46_DF-915_B-_BECD7_CD50_BCF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/1cnrg6dw97/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/1udt4rlpbf/E40795_F6-1_EBC-4669-8_E34-_C837_CEA5_B95_A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/1udt4rlpbf/)
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Hey its never to late to pug it and start over. I know at some point it becomes too painful to do that.
Spaugh is absolutely correct. You can chop it down to knee level around April/May and it will sprout many new branches as long as the tree is healthy.
Simon
Hey, since I got 5 grown up cherimoya trees now, I might just do that on 1 or 2!
Got to preserve (transplant) a couple of the favorite scions ahead of time, though...
Never thought of being able to "redesign" a tree before! ;D
Thanks to a lot of you in this forum...
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Hey its never to late to pug it and start over. I know at some point it becomes too painful to do that.
Spaugh is absolutely correct. You can chop it down to knee level around April/May and it will sprout many new branches as long as the tree is healthy.
Simon
Hey, since I got 5 grown up cherimoya trees now, I might just do that on 1 or 2!
Got to preserve (transplant) a couple of the favorite scions ahead of time, though...
Never thought of being able to "redesign" a tree before! ;D
Thanks to a lot of you in this forum...
Ah yeah thats an issue if you have multigrafted trees. Makes it even harder to lop it off.
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Cherimoya Killer
Anona Rosada
It taste like it’s whipped and airiness of strawberry shortcake with tones of raspberries, amazing !
(https://s1.postimg.cc/1cnrg6dw97/1610_BD2_E-8032-46_DF-915_B-_BECD7_CD50_BCF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/1cnrg6dw97/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/1udt4rlpbf/E40795_F6-1_EBC-4669-8_E34-_C837_CEA5_B95_A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/1udt4rlpbf/)
Mindblown
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When it comes to fruit, it seems everything is better in California. That used to be true regarding quality of life also--nowadays not so true. (But I still love my home state.)
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Nice evolution Spaugh, you tree outgrew mine even if they started at slightly comparable size. How tall is it now?
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Maybe 4ft or about 130cm ? Pugging and top pruning definitely has kept the trees short and bushy.
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Hard to believe this is the same piece of dirt 3 years later.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5667/31299829611_878d7e6bd9_b.jpg)
The cherimoyas are in the bottom left area. Same trees that were little twigs in the photos earlier in this thread. They are really tall now, try need constant trimming.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48920677787_0a0f2fe8b4_b.jpg)
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This is the first year I pollinated (what a pain!). We did get some good fruit set. Interestingly some of the fruit on the same trees look completely different from being pollinated with differwent pollen.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035304836_f6dcf68fda_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035304506_82372dea62_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035526982_c73b22190a_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035526957_80886c5932_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035526687_20a3335cd8_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035303791_fb39717fa4_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035526387_980057dd54_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035525532_1623b180d4_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49035302806_40f7ac3548_c.jpg)
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Nice evolution of your orchard Spaugh. It is clear that you are providing your trees with good care.
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Amazing fruits from your labors of love.
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Congratulations my friend! Very nice evolution! ;D
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Heres a recent photo. Trees did pretty good for their first summer. I have been pruning constantly every few weeks. Any long branches I tip and strip. Hopefully Im not going overboard with the tipping.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4481/37963300136_f5e65097e0_b.jpg)
Damn, I've got some work to do. Whackamole come soon.
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To behlgarden thanks for saying to remove the leaves on nodes after topping. I tried some branches with and some without doing this and the difference is huge. The branches with leaves removed start regrowing in just a week or 2. The others just sit and dont grow.
I refloat this thread to ask Spaugh, Behl or Simon a question: Should I remove all the leaves in each topped branch or just the last ones and in that case how many? My guess from reading this thread is that every removed leave should produce a new branch, right? My tree is speeding up this year and I'd like to keep it in control.
Thanks!
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You can cut the branch back then remove 2 or 3 leaves. Thats what I do at least. Just remove the leaves that point in the direction you want that new branch to go.
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Super helpful post thanks guys.
Brad it was nice seeing some of your old photos!
My cherimoyas from seeds you sent me a while back are getting lengthy and burning in this stupid heat but they're looking good.
Should I top mine once it cools off a bit more or just wait for spring? I'm in no rush with these trees.
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You can cut the branch back then remove 2 or 3 leaves. Thats what I do at least. Just remove the leaves that point in the direction you want that new branch to go.
Thank you Brad, got it!
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Kris, move the trees in the shade if they are in pots and its too hot. My young cherimoyas seem to take the heat slightly better than avocado. I sprayed a lot of newly planted trees with surround. It doesnt stick that well on cherimoya fuzzy leaves so I just did a few and lwft the rest unprotected. For sure it works well on avocados though. As fo pruning, I would do it now and not wait for next year.
I just snapped this pic today so you could see how the trees filled in. This year they are pretty much mature size and have a heavy crop it looks like.
(https://i.postimg.cc/K1xh67CF/20200716-105150.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1xh67CF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yJ5Jcf6/20200716-105150.jpg)
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Definitely doing better than my avocados. I put 6 tree in two holes as an experiment. About to pot up some seedlings I've been too lazy to do anything with so I'm not worried if the experiment fails... It's been 110 here and I don't even want to go outside.
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Wow, everything looks amazing Brad.
My annonas are really getting large and leggy. Will prune today.
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Brad, beautiful amazing transformation of bairn land into a fruit forest excellent job congrats on your hard work ;) 8)
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I love seeing the transformation!
Aliens are going to abduct you (again) and put you on their intergalactic terraforming fruit freak team.