Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Zafra

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: when to pick Oro Negro avocado
« on: December 28, 2021, 09:34:10 AM »
Actually mine got blacker and blacker but the shine came off and they got duller & less shiny. Most avocado do that, is my experience.
Yes that's what people say here (about green types) when they lose their shine they're ready to pick.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: when to pick Oro Negro avocado
« on: December 26, 2021, 12:23:21 PM »
Exactly the info I was looking for thanks to both! :)

Tropical Fruit Discussion / when to pick Oro Negro avocado
« on: December 26, 2021, 10:49:34 AM »
Did a forum search but couldn't find this info - if I missed it please pass me the link. I have my first and only Oro Negro fruit turning black now. Any tips on how to know when to pick? With our Pollock's we mostly just wait for drops but I don't know if that's the way to go with this variety. Thanks in advance!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cecilove or Pickering?
« on: August 21, 2021, 07:20:32 PM »
 I'm leaning towards the Cecilove. I always enjoy these threads where people chime in on varieties. Thanks for the input everyone!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cecilove or Pickering?
« on: August 21, 2021, 01:08:04 PM »
I actually have Venus, M4, Haden, Phoenix, Maha, Kesar and Honey Kiss.  None are fruiting yet though I have high hopes for M4, Venus and Haden next year.
And you say you're getting Sugarloaf/E-4 for sure, then how about adding Cecilove and Orange Sherbet?  I think that would really round out your collection.
I forgot to mention I also have Cac.
E4 is definite. I was thinking Orange Essence instead of Sherbet though. I feel like I've seen more jelly seed complaints about OS, but maybe that was my imagination?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cecilove or Pickering?
« on: August 20, 2021, 07:31:53 AM »
I actually have Venus, M4, Haden, Phoenix, Maha, Kesar and Honey Kiss.  None are fruiting yet though I have high hopes for M4, Venus and Haden next year.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cecilove or Pickering?
« on: August 19, 2021, 05:51:02 PM »
That's great info thanks. Unfortunately it still leaves me undecided lol. I'm getting 3, E4 is for sure, I thought Orange Essence, and the third was to be Cecilove or Pickering. According to Alex they have a lot in common if you don't count flavor, including compact tree size, disease resistance, productivity and precociousness, so I guess that leaves flavor as the deciding factor.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cecilove or Pickering?
« on: August 19, 2021, 11:22:45 AM »
Based on flavor only or including other criteria?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Cecilove or Pickering?
« on: August 19, 2021, 10:53:10 AM »
Which would you choose of the 2?

Perfect thanks so much!

Looking at Presco tapes - what mil thickness is best? I want to be able to wrap good and tight. Thanks!

I wouldn't have access to potassium nitrate, unfortunately.
You might be surprised. The commercial name in English for it is Saltpetre. It is one of the components of gunpowder so making it has long been a thing, also used in meat preservation, and chemical stump removers.
Using urine and wood ash you can make it, there are other methods.
You're right I am surprised! Urine and wood ash I can get. Here's hoping that such measures won't be necessary though!

I wouldn't have access to potassium nitrate, unfortunately.

Thanks I have M4 so that gives me hope, and I'd like to get Cotton Candy so I'll keep it on the list. Mangos in general grow and produce in the tropics all over, some flower from drought stress during the dry season, some flower because they wanna flower :). But since these newer varieties were developed in Florida there's no way to know if they require cold stress to flower without trying them out. I'm just trying to find out if anyone here knows of any of these varieties producing (or not) in a tropical climate.

That's a good question and I don't know the answer! But here we never get below the low 60s, so that's what I'm thinking about.

Hi all,
Does anyone know of any of the "new" (as in from the last 10 years) and/or Zill varieties being grown in places with no cold stress to induce flowering? Are there any that are known to or not to flower under such conditions?

Thank you very helpful!

Hmm no one? Ok, when does jackfruit flower in Florida?

Hi there, does anyone know what month one might expect flowers from a jackfruit in northern South America? No one I know here has one or knows about it. Thanks!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / grafting experts, a question:
« on: October 03, 2020, 07:14:34 PM »
I know that for best results you want an active rootstock and a scion with swelling buds which means it's full of energy. But who's ultimately in control of whether a graft takes? Does the rootstock grab hold of the scion or does the scion latch on to the rootstock?
This is a hard question to word well but I'll leave it like that for now and clarify further if necessary. Thanks everyone!

Why not leave a flap when you peel back the bark on your rootstock? A flap would also imply a beveled cut on the scionwood.

Also I like to cut across the node on my scionwood. The cambium layer is thicker there. I always make sure I cut across a node when I cleft graft, that way I'm sure that since the scion is wider at the node, no matter if it matches the size of the rootstock, both cambium layers will cross at that point.

I agree this is good advice. Leaving a flap will help hold the bottom of the scion and provide additional points of cambial contact.

I also like cutting through a node because of the additional cambial contact. The nodes are primed for growth.


Can anyone explain (or even better show with a picture) what cutting across or through a node on a Scion looks like? I can't visualize it. Thanks!

To prep a scion you remove its leaves and leave it on the tree until its buds start to swell, so you know it's full of energy and ready to push. My scion was from a HUGE seedling sap with spectacular fruit we want to propagate. Especially because the tree is so large, it took several weeks for even the slightest movement of the buds. I cut it as soon as the tip bud started to green up a little.
I'm NOT an expert grafter. I had a miserable take rate of about 50% with avocado and citrus (the easiest to graft) and 0% with mango. I got my 50% with clefts and modified clefts - I don't think I ever did a successful veneer graft. My luck changed when I started doing a version of the "gravedigger" graft (search the forum for gravedigger and you'll find the thread), which I would say is a modified bark graft. Suddenly my citrus and avocado percentage shot up to over 90% and I have similar results with mango. I cut off the branch where I want to graft, peel down the bark as for the gravedigger method (usually I leave a flap but it's not necessary) and cut the scion with a long cut on one side and a short wedge cut to a point on the other. I don't have buddytape or parafilm so I use regular plastic wrap which I like because I can pull it very tight for good contact, but I have to be careful to remove it after the graft takes or it will girdle. I'm mostly topworking established trees/seedlings and this method has been virtually fail-proof doing that. Rootstocks in bags are harder to graft because they just don't have the vigor of planted out trees with good root systems, so my luck with those has been considerably less but still better than I had with other techniques. The only caveat with this method is the rootstock needs to be bigger than the scion so the flat cut of the scion has a flat surface to adhere to, otherwise you can only get contact on one edge and it's much less likely to take. If you're topworking or working on established seedlings it's easy to have rootstocks thick enough for most scions, but that can be a problem for rootstocks in bags. If you can, I recommend planting out rootstocks and letting them settle in for a year before grafting. Grafts are more likely to be successful and they take off like rockets on established trees.
As for the latex, I pretty much just ignored it but I do think the first attempt might have failed because I went too slow and maybe the latex started to dry up a bit. The second time I worked more quickly. I also did one with a non-prepped scion that looked it had a swelling tip and it hasn't started to push yet but it's still green. Like I said, you're going to wait either way.
Hope that was somehow helpful! :)

For anyone interested I got my second sapodilla graft (first failed) to push in under 2 weeks having prepped the scion. Of course, I had to wait quite a while for the scion to be ready, so yes you're going to wait one way or the other, either before or after grafting. I prefer to do the waiting before the graft, though, so I can know fairly quickly if it takes or not.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk