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Messages - Plantinyum

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Thsnks ! ;)

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: container black sapote seedling is flowing
« on: February 05, 2024, 05:50:02 AM »
I have one seedling, about a meter in heigh, the species is easy to care for and the plant does wonderfull as of now. I hope it can also fruit on its own, when mature enough.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Can anyone recognize this plinia species?
« on: February 05, 2024, 05:40:56 AM »
Wonder what kind of plinia this is, its easy to tell it is not the regular sabata tipe jaboticaba, what could it be?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Papaya air layering
« on: February 02, 2024, 02:16:10 PM »
I already did them the air layer way, cuttings seems too risky for me, wouldn't want to risk the big tops of those plants.  Being herbaceous plants, they should root probably until spring, hopefully in May at the latest, then i can cut it off and lower a bit more the remaining part. They should sprout from the bases, the cut i made is less then halway tru the trunk so the remaining part should be sufficient to nourish both roots and top part. I hope the air layered parts stay more compact and taimed in their growth.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Papaya air layering
« on: February 01, 2024, 10:13:30 AM »
Thanks! I did them ,exactly as the videos show, from what i sal in them, roots form first at the part that has been cut, the plant will probably make roots on the other side, but after separation. What they dont show in the videos, is that most of the leaves should be removed, after you cut it out, which is my general practice with every air layer.
I will report a success or a failure in a few months.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Papaya air layering
« on: January 23, 2024, 11:05:18 AM »
Hello, as my mountain papaya plants have outgrown their place highwise, in the greenhouse, i want to air layer them so i lower the heigh and hopefully get a new plant for pot culture, which should be a more campact of a grower. I found several videos on youtube , of how people get papaya plants to root at various heights on the stem, so i will do this method .
Have all the materials and will set them airlayers today.
Has someone here on the forum tried this technique?
Here is a link to one of the videos.

I transplanted mine into pots as they were vary shaded in the ground in my gh. Placed them in full sun outside and they absolutely took off. They were kinda when so didnt have much root to them, but i am sure the species is quite resilient. Try to take them with as much durt and roots as possible, that way the shock will be minimal.

I went with zebdid and kensington, as thats what was available, after consulting with the nurseries ithat offered them. Zebdid is inground in the gh and is doing well, the kensington which i am sure is not the said variety, but rather a seedling, is also doing good in a small pot. They are wating for spring to start rolling i quess. I will take more plants and other varieties come spring, also some other exotics i have been eager to try for a lot of time.

Some cherimoya are biannual meaning every odd years it will produce massive flowers.  If you are feeding with a bloom fertilizer and your wood is 1 year old or greater, it will produce an abundance of flowers.  My trees is a heavy producer every odd year.

Thanks! Ive read that they can be alternate bearing patterns with cherimoya, i see it as a reason for one of the plants, the one that had 50 fruit last year, really had a bumper first crop.
The other one though,  it had 2 fruits last year, this year set only 3 from an odd flowering that was in late winter ,as far as i remember. The main bloom ,which i tried to trigger was very weak and scattered, coudnt pare the flowers and didnt had fresh pollen most of the time. The plant did manage to set a few fruit, but there was a day with with very hot temps in the greenhouse and it aborted all but 2 of them.
Interesting enough,  i found the reason why i get black necrotic spots on the leaves from time to time, it was from the heat, the day after it i saw alot of fried looking spots on the leaves, which turned bark brown and didnt grew in size. They dont like temperatures above 30C .

I will feed them in advance with a bloom fertilizer, before i try to trigger a bloom , i have fed them a few times with such ferts this year, but didnt see a difference, they were with their leaves on ,so this should be preventing the buds from waking up, as usually.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 15, 2023, 03:03:12 AM »
Sorry for the late reply, here they are!
The soil looks very moist, becouse they are freshly watered.
You can see the soursops also, doing well i think.
Checked them for spider mites, did not see any with the magnifier.

Nice looking plant, congrats!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 11, 2023, 05:07:15 AM »
I have several very sad looking seedlings, that look like they might die any moment now. They are around a year old and are just about 5 -10 cm high. Leaves are light yelowwish green, they do not grow at all anymore, planted in well drained turf.
Can someone give me a hint as to what to do to make them grow? They were in the greenhouse all summer, in dapled shade, now they are inside the house ,on a south facing window.  I have 2 soursops that i started along with the uvaria's, and those although still not doing wonderfull, are growing much better that the uvaria, if that is of any value showing what the conditionds are like.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hand Pollination - passiflora decaisneana
« on: November 11, 2023, 02:00:26 AM »
Is the rind thick and edible on this species? My plant had just a few flowers, nothing set, i failed to grow caerulea and alata to flower,  to cross pollinate. Alot of flower buds aborted, plant is growing as normal.

The full tree leaf strip should come right before the tree wakes up from winter.  Around February or March here. 

But you can continue to do it through summer to get more flowers.  But this time dont strip the whole tree.  Just strip back some leaves towards the inside of the tree on big branches where a good fruit will form.

Ive never done a full leaf strip to them, i tend to remove some of the big leaves on the strong outerfacing branches, and leave the weak interior ones have their leaves on, so the plant doesnt get as shocked. I dont know if thats the right thing to do, i may do a more severe leaf strip next year.

I dont know if the biological spring for the plant is in line with our actual spring, since they are mostly consistently growing. One of them now is making a few flower buds and trying to push growth from the bases of apical leaves, without them being removed, the other tree is also growing but not as strong right now.
They do tend to get a discoloration on the leaves towards spring, but ive never had them shed their leaves alone, ive awlays had to interfere and force it, they are evergreen for me .

This article was in my files and it might interest you.

Downloaded and saved! Thank you! Judjing by the pruning done here and on other places ive seen, i am not pruning enough. I will have to do a major prune next year, the canopies are getting too bushy, i just havent had the heart to prune mine like that, seems quite severe but being greenhouse grown in a limited space, will have to do it.

Does someone else do leaf strip to cherimoya, and at which time of the season do you do it? I did once a strip in june, thats our spring here , had a strong bloom after that.

My cherimoya never sees below 53F (12C) or so and flowers like crazy
More good news! I was thinking that they need more cold to triger blooming, since thats what some articles claim.
The low percent of blooms must have been a result of the vety late leaf strip, i remember we had the strongest heat waves in this period also, so this may also have coused it.

Here in the Azores i rarely have hours below 10c and I get very good flowering on the cherimoyas.

Thank you for the feedback! The weak flowering may be due to the time i tried to promote it, i felt it was a bit late at the time. I will do the procedure around may or june next year! Will try to keep the greenhouse a bit cooler for a bit more, but not as cool as i anticipated. 

I usually do not repot any plant, guava also, until the whole root ball is filled nicely with roots. Plants when repoted, first send strong roots that try to go as deep as they can, leading to roots showing tru the drainage holes shortly after repotting. That doesnt mean that the whole soil area has been occupied,  and doesnt mean there is a need for a repot. I always take out of the pot and inspect how tight the roots have grown, if they are pretty netted i repot. Another clue that there is a need for a repot should be the soil drying too fast. The soil check obviously can be harder to do ,if your pot i very big awready.

My cherimoya trees did not flower as profusely as last year, i did a defoliation and a slight prune kinda late, at the end of july, one of them did not produce a single flower, 5h3 other one had around 20. They are big plants and did had a very strong flower flush last year, when one of them set 50 fruit, the other one had 3.
The only thing i can think of ,that was different pas winter, was that i did the heating system in the greenhouse, which ended up very eficient at keeping the lowest temp in there at around 10-15 C ,most of the time, whereas for the winter of 2021-22, i had a sloppy heating system that kept the lowest temps anywhere around 5-10C, sometimes colder. The summer after this first cold winter for the plants in the greenhouse, that is when they had the strong bloom, after a defoliation and pruning in june.

Now i do have alot of controw over the temperature in the greenhouse right now, curntly i havent yet  turned on the heating system, because of the cherymoyas, in hopes of letting them accumulate a bit of chill hours. I dont know how long should i maintain low temperatures in there, today i had 6.2C inside, i do have other more tender things in there ,thats why i wonder if the weak bloom was because i kept it too warm for them over winter, or maybe it was due to the late prune and defoliation that i did?
Anyone growing cherimoya in a tropical place, where you dont get temperatures  below 10C and are still able to fruit cherimoya?

Jaboticaba45, at least all things survived! Shows how even if you have everithyng automated, still have to keep an eye on things awlays! My fear is waking up to a crashed heating system in the gh, everithing can go away so fast, takes only 1 mistake or malfunction, at the wrong time...

Tropicaltoba, i do not aim towards spider mite resistance or enithing, i just hope i dont get them. The radiators do make microclimates close to them i suppose, but last year i did not had problems with plants suffering from the warmth from them, or had spider mite infestation. This year the canopy is dencer, so i may be more prone to an infestation, compared to last year.

Some pictures, quite bisy inside. Tropicaltoba, the radiators are on several pictures, they are on one side of the paths, a nuisance for plant management, but i'll deal with it for several months only per year. The pots are not quite visible, but around 1/3 of the plants inside are there, gust for winter.
The plastic barrew is filled with water, for watering. Its very close to the radiator, so when i turn on the heating, the water gets heated and i have warm water to water my plants with.

It's great that you want to connect it to your house's water heating system for efficiency. Bathroom radiators with tube-like designs could be a practical choice given your limited space. Although they may have a smaller water capacity, you can compensate for that by using several of them to achieve the desired heat output.
I already connected standart type radiators, the worked very well last winter. I am glad i didnt went the electricity path, the current way of heating will be far cheaper , it was a huge pain to do it, but totally worth it.

Plantinyum, are your radiators on the ground? Do you have space for a ceiling mounted heater? Iíve got infrared heaters mounted on the North wall that work very well for my greenhouse design.  They can be a bit pricey to buy/run.

, yes ,they are on the ground, i remove them in summer. Will post pictures one of theese days. I probably have the space for a ceiling heater, depending on the size of it. But i dont really need one anymore ,the current heating system is working wonderfull, with the expens only being the wood each year, but its a connection to the existing heating system of the house, so they are both fueld from one burning pit. I dont see electricity as a good option anymore, now that i have this setup.

I also have a carambola and it was sprayed several times with neem, hasnt blinked once, the 5 ml per liter dose doesnt affect it. Ive had a bad burn on my cherimoyas from neem, that was last year, i dont remember what dose i have used , but back then it burned them. This year though, i spayed them once, they havent had any sort of reaction to it, it was probably too strong back then, idk.

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