Interesting. All my durians are still looking good. I have had a seedling in the ground almost a year which has no protection, no signs that it will drop any leaves. Had a chempedak die after the wet period ended a couple weeks ago but I believe that they do that sometimes.
Yeah and that happen more frequently from some cempadak varieties I and one friend have noted, they just die no matter who cares for them or what is done (me and two others). There is one tree in Whyanbeel valley that is especially known for this.
That is probobly one of the reasons there is so little cempedak compared to jackfruit in AU. Idk if this is the case in other areas like Indonesia for example.
Regarding phytophra root rot and flat vs sloping land:
It is more likely root rot is the cause of death in a grafted tree then in a seedling tree (zygote) from my experience. I haven't seen any scientific evaluations on this but that is probobly becuase seedlings is not an option by default for comercial companies, so no funding goes there unfortunetly. If anyone can find or know of some evidence that would be great
I haven't seen any signs of root rot here in d. zib. even though most durians have 24/7 dripp irrigation on for most of the year, even in rainy season sometimes when it's really wet. And I haven't been able to get a native soil sample from Borneo innoculated so similar microbiome to neighbours. But neighbours have problems with root rot and most of their plants (about 70%) are grafted. We only have one grafted as a novelty. In my opinion it is better to grow seedlings and focus resources on the ones that come out well eventually then to to have grafted tree's with expected economic life of aprox 30 years, that is what I can see here, after 20-30 years they decline rapidly, some just start showing signs of dying and then borers come in and finish it of, some damage the healthy tissue even and some eat the dead tissue from necrossis after the fungal infection.
I still haven't seen any borer damage on living durian seedling tissue.
Seedling tree's in the wild are more likely to die of trauma (other trees falling on them, lightning etc.). So i think it is the human cultivation that is causing the root rot issue.
I would like to know if Durian have a DNA set that determines a time when it self dies or if they can live indefinetly without trauma.
Similar for grafted jackfruit, neigbours have a high presence of pinks disease (fungus) but I have never seen it here. And they spray with the bordeaux mix.
Durianloer:
"Old seedling durian trees are majestic, absolutely beautiful sight. Grafted "Christmas trees" not so much."
So true bro!
Peter:
"There’s lots of reasons for planting durian on a slope."
Yeah I agree, like if you have the right facing slope you could harvest lot's of sun in winter months.
And if you got a "pass" then you could create a moist microclimate. (Pass is kinda beween to peaks still sloping).
N and S face have different environments, it's clear here. And passes are the most lush and "Borneo" like here since it's so moist.
"There’s plenty to see there though there’s more rice than durian on the flat for sure."
Yeah and i think it is unfortunetly people value rice over durian so it get's the sencond fertile land.
fruit nerd:
If you don't provide some shade for young durian in Australia during mid summer you will not give the young durian the ability to photosynthesis at highest level, it will be reduced. there is lot's of info on this in a normal botany book. Even on overcast summer days there is enough light for optimal photosyn. according to the botany book i got. I can also see this in the field how their leavs drop angle to more vertical to reduce the amount of sun emitting on the leaf. And young durians don't have compact dense canopies yet so it won't hurt the lover branches and inside leafs with some shade. When mature it' a different story.
And also consider that a leaf filters sun different from plastic shade cloth, eg. it let's through wavelenghts other then blue cause that is captured by the leaf if I am not wrong and red and green goes through mostly and will hit leafs bellow.
https://www.amazon.com/Botany-Introduction-James-D-Mauseth/dp/1284157350/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=botany&qid=1658517249&s=books&sr=1-11I have thought about creating a
trichome mimicking spray that will act as a sun lumens reductant. Many plants use trichomes to protect against the sun.
To use silica or calcium carbonate spray. Also wax could be used. I know there are some products available but haven't tried any of em and don't know what they are based on.
The coolest would be to actually create a trichome mimicking spray that enhances foliar nutrient assimilation.
from the jungle,
cassowary