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Messages - shpaz

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Ice cream bean holding a fruit
« on: December 03, 2023, 01:18:38 AM »
I'm using well water to irrigate mine. our well is 8.5+ PH and my Pacay is suffering badly. I give it chelated iron and zinc every now and then but its not helping much. I used to add sulfer every few months but I stopped due my extreme dislike of the sulfur smell.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: happy new year
« on: January 01, 2023, 04:07:01 AM »
Happy new year everyone!

Can confirm

I purchased both grimal and restinga seeds, in addition to other plinia seeds including Escarlate and Sabara. Our tap water parameters are ~450 TDS, 8.6-8.8 PH.

All of the plinia seedlings are suffering. However restinga is being the most tolerant. They seem less bothered by the high PH than the rest by a good margin.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: English ebook of Frutas No Brasil Book
« on: April 17, 2022, 01:58:06 PM »
I purchased it through apple books. I wasn't able to find it anywhere else.

I have a Samsung phone  :'(

Tropical Fruit Discussion / English ebook of Frutas No Brasil Book
« on: April 17, 2022, 01:52:44 PM »
Hey all,

Adam mentioned on a video that there was an English ebook version of the 'Frutas No Brasil' book (the updated release). However, I spent few months trying to find it to no avail.

Does anyone know from where I can buy it?

Are they easy to grow from seed? I tried and failed one time. I think my seed were too old. Any suggestions of technique?

Yes they are a bit tricky it took me three tries to do it right. They need light to germinate, so I put the seeds over some moist peat moss, covered that in plastic to prevent drying, then placed that under a light bulb, I got left off 2 weeks later. I used a tooth pick to separate the seedlings. They were tiny and there were hundreds of them.
I have yellow ones and now I want the red ones.


As the title says, I'm looking for some red Muntingia seeds. Thanks.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Is this a stupid question?
« on: September 19, 2021, 04:33:44 AM »
Its either apple or plum haha

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Blueberries in FL
« on: August 19, 2021, 06:29:07 AM »
Don't they need a super low PH? It will be easier to grow it in pots and use a strong acid to lower your waters PH down to the required range. A weak acid like vinegar might not work long term if there is a strong base in your water.

This is very exciting, keep us posted!

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Selling Sweet Tart Seeds
« on: July 14, 2021, 05:27:07 AM »
PM Sent

I get small fruits on my sapodilla every year, but they still do not grow to full size fruits, only to about 2-3" before they fall off. I have hummingbirds nesting on my tree so maybe they do the pollination for my plants (2).

How old is the tree?

Maybe you should post a photo

Are you sure they have a calcium deficiency? Calcium in not mobile in plants so spraying is not the ultimate answer. You said you already added calcium to the soil in a liquid form, I'd just observe them for a few weeks and go from there.

A tip, sandy soils don't hold into nutrients so work on increasing your organic matter, and use slow release fertilizers.

I have a clay soil that is rich in calcium so take what I said with a grain of salt (my PH is similar to yours though).

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: High Jungle Food Forest Update
« on: May 24, 2021, 09:20:07 AM »
That's amazing! Must be really tough to take care of thousands of trees.

Please make many more of these update videos!

I have the exact opposite problem to yours, my PH is around 8.6.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: New fruit Poulsemia armata
« on: May 11, 2021, 05:45:00 AM »
Wow a really interesting find. I wonder if the taste of the fruit is highly variable and that vegetative propagation is needed instead of growing it from seed.

Pm sent

Since its a patio, what about trying to close off the slides a bit to stop strong cold winds partially then adding a small heater at night?

I think it's better to make small heated green house if you can.

I deal with gnats too in my grow tent, yellow sticky traps to control adults, mosquito dunks/concentrate for larvae seems fine enough, not sure if two weeks is enough time to make any definitive conclusions. Hopefully the pyrethrin is your silver bullet though!

I found this is a great resource, it compiled a decent amount of information, especially if you don't want to always bother with looking at IPM pages..

I have used mosquito dunks for at least 4-6 months. The populations declined at first then recover with vengeance even though I never stopped using mosquito dunks.

Thanks for that great link!

I like to start most of my trees from seeds or cuttings I get from friends or forum members here, as most of the trees I buy locally turn to be not true to type.

About 2 years a ago, I found a fungus gnat flying around in my grow room and I thought nothing of it. Fast forward a few months and there were hundreds! Those pesky things are annoying as hell, but the real issue is their larvae. They nibble on the roots of my seedings and rooting cuttings and stunt or kill them.

So after many hours of research on how to get rid of them I found many suggested solutions online and I started applying them.

Not everything I used during this fight that lasted 2 years worked. I'll try to summarize my experience as follows:

1. Cider-vinegar traps: I learned how to make them and put up 5 of those. Had 0% success. not a single gnat fell in. Complete and utter waste of time.

2. Only Water the pots from the bottom: I started doing this even though I had a large number of pots. This made it very time consuming to water the plants but I never stopped doing it. It seems like it is a good practice but you will not get rid of gnats completely this way, as they will still crawl into the pots from the drainage holes, or the sides as the potting soil shrinks a tiny bit when its dry. Furthermore, this made it more difficult to tell if a plant needs watering or not as the soil always looks dry from the top.

3. Hydrogen Peroxide: I drenched the soil with Hydrogen Peroxide as the larvae is said to die on contact with Hydrogen Peroxide. This had no effect at all. Had to stop after a few weeks. In fact I found a video on YouTube where a guy puts Hydrogen Peroxide directly on a gnats larvae under a microscope and the maggot is not even phased by it.

4. Mosquito Bits (dunks): I first sprinkled few bits on top of the soil on each pot so that every time I water, more of the stuff dissolves into the soil. However, after a few days the bits got moldy which attracted more gnats. So I started pre-dissolving the bits in water, and use that water to water the plants. Gnat population decreased after a few weeks, but then recovered back even though I never stopped using the bits. I think they might have built up some sort of immunity against it if that's possible.

5. Gnatrol® Biological Larvicide: This is basically the same stuff in Mosquito Bits but much easier to use (powered form). I used it for 4 months with the same results as Mosquito Bits. In fact, the population started getting out of hands quickly. Note that I never watered my plants with plain water while using the Gnatrol. I always use a water and Gnatrol mix every time.

6. Sticky Yellow Cards: These are very effective at trapping the adults and reducing their numbers. However, this will not get rid of the gnats completely. I highly recommend using these yellow sticky cards since it can reduce the adult population reliably.

7. Pyrethrin: This is the holy grail of gnats killers. This is an organic compound that is extracted from the chrysanthemum flowers and can be used on produce till the day of harvest. It is one of the safest insecticide according to the research I made online so I felt ok using it indoors in my grow room. I mixed it with water and I used it to water my plants. It has been a week now, I only saw 2 gnats since. I'll continue using this stuff and update you guys if it finally kills off all of the gnats for good. It is sure looking amazing right now with almost not gnats flying around. Its a bonus that Pyrethrin also kills aphids.

In conclusion: Using yellow sticky cards and drenching the soil with Pyrethrin might be a reliable method to get rid of fungus gnats completely.

P.S. I hear Pyrethrin is toxic to cats.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Wampi seeds
« on: April 28, 2021, 01:39:06 AM »
Are these seeds coming from good tasting fruits? Do you know which variety?

Keep us posted! Looking forward to your list.

I saw Peluche seeds selling for more than $50 on ebay around two or three weeks ago. The fruits must be little drops from heaven if they demand such a price ;D

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: high humidy sub-& tropicals?
« on: April 26, 2021, 01:11:56 AM »
Guavas don't require any humidity for sure. My Pitangatuba and Barbados Cherry are also growing nicely in low humidity as well.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Sweet Uvaia Setting Fruit
« on: April 26, 2021, 01:06:28 AM »
Nice pictures Kevin! Hopefully it will be a good tasting tree.

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