The Tropical Fruit Forum
Citrus => Cold Hardy Citrus => Topic started by: Peep on June 30, 2022, 09:15:17 AM
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Hello everyone,
In summer of 2021 I started my citrus collection with a few plants from Lenzi, and have kept learning and adding varieties during the year. I thought I'd just make a topic to put some information about my plants, my experiences and people are free to ask questions if they have any.
I'm located in the city of Antwerp and while the back of our house and garden are facing south, the hours of sun can be limited due to walls and buildings blocking the sun. So I keep my citrus plants on a flat rooftop, two stories high up and get a reasonable amount of sun there I think (it's not at the top of the house, I still get some shade from other buildings). Downside is that it can get a bit more wind up there. Other than that, the winter temperatures are not too harsh here in the city I think. According to the book from Olivier Biggio "Agrumes résistant au froid" I'm on the edge between zone 8A and 8B.
These are the varieties I have now:
- Yuzu
- Yuzu N°3
- Smooth Skin Hanayuzu
- Yuzumelo / Yuzu x Citrumelo
- Thomasville Citrangequat
- US119
- Furrowed Bitter Orange
- Taiwanica
- Sudachi
- Eremolemon Coachella
- Prague Chimera
- Shekwasha
- Keraji Mandarine
- Changsha Tangerine
- Okitsu Satsuma
- Maxima Satsuma
- Enzo Pomelo
- Citrangequat 4 Season
- Meyer Lemon
Some of them came from Lenzi and are on carrizo rootstock, so I am taking scions from them and grafting them onto poncirus. I had never made grafts before and from reading on the internet it seemed like I should not expect a high success rate, but it really wasn’t an issue. Most of them succeeded and if they failed it was often when the mother plant wasn’t doing very well at the time or if the scion was just a terrible piece.
Here you can find more information about my plants, the rootstocks, my grafts, and any information I collect:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bDS69kX9iBFFes3AHoAaj-wvSEzkFKqQe8QJ008WsaE/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bDS69kX9iBFFes3AHoAaj-wvSEzkFKqQe8QJ008WsaE/edit?usp=sharing)
I’m still looking to add a lot of varieties, this is what I still have on my list right now
These I have no good source for yet (Vessieres doesn't reply again):
- Kumquat Nameïwa
- Clemyuz22 (or Clemyuz33)
- Kishu(-mikan)
- Tachibana
- Eremomandarin
- Bloomsweet / kinkoji
Quissac has these two, but they are expensive, so still looking for alternatives or get scions:
- Yuzu Nishiki Tada
- Yuzukichi
These I think I can get from Adavo, but I'm still interested in scions (just less of a priority):
- Ichang lemon CRC 1215
- Trifeola
- Satsuma Hashimoto
- Satsuma Iseki
- Citrangeremo
- Eremorange
- Kabosu
- Ichangensis x Sinensis
- Citrus glauca x shekwasha
For these I know someone in France that is willing to send me scions:
- Satsuma Collot
- Satsuma Corsica SRA 145
And this one I should get from a local nursery in August, he says it's very cold hardy, when I go there I'll try to get more information about it, because online there is nothing to be found about it:
- Kumquat Rafael
I'm also interested in making crosses in the future, so Poncirus+ would also be nice to add to the collection.
If you see a variety on my list that is not worth getting, or if you think a variety should be added to my list, please let me know!
And if you can help me with scions, I’d be very happy to talk about that.
I'm also happy to share scions, but I don't know when I will have which variety available as my plants are rather young right now so I don't get many good scions from them.
Here is a picture of most of my plants together:
(https://i.postimg.cc/N9PgRCJ7/IMG-20220622-154936.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9PgRCJ7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpT6p63M/IMG-20220622-154924.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpT6p63M)
Feel free to request pictures of specific plants.
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I noticed you listed Ponkan Mandarin on the don't want list. Ponkan is not only a good fruit, it is a great tree.. I would urge you to reconsider. You will be happy if you do. Thanks for sharing.
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I noticed you listed Ponkan Mandarin on the don't want list. Ponkan is not only a good fruit, it is a great tree.. I would urge you to reconsider. You will be happy is you do. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for taking a look! I originally added Ponkan because I read great things about the fruit, but found out hardiness seems to be -9 / -10, while I try to only include things starting at "reported" -12°C. It's why I will sell my Meyer lemon, even though the fruit is good. Kishu is an exception on my list because I might like it for crossbreeding (and maybe I also have a weak spot for cute tiny mandarins similar to the shekwasha ;D ).
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Hi peep,
I have
- Tachibana
- Eremomandarin (not the cross with Shekwasha)
- Trifeola
- Citrangeremo
- Eremorange
- Ichangensis x Sinensis
I may be able to send you Clemyzu22 and Clemyuz33 the next year. By now, my grafts have not yet budded.
I live near Aachen (Germany), so not so far from you.
Till
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@Till That's great! Let me send you a PM.
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Hi Peep,
That is a nice collection you got there! I happened to have bought the Satsuma Miyagawa and Iseki from Adavo this year, so I would be able to send some budwood later this year.
I had ordered some Kabosu from Adavo some years ago, but by now all of the trees have died. They might carry a disease. Anyways, I contacted them and they said they would have new plants available in august this year.
I would be interested in your Yuzu N°3 and Hanayuzu if you have some budwood available :)
Hi peep,
I have
- Tachibana
- Eremomandarin (not the cross with Shekwasha)
- Trifeola
- Citrangeremo
- Eremorange
- Ichangensis x Sinensis
I may be able to send you Clemyzu22 and Clemyuz33 the next year. By now, my grafts have not yet budded.
I live near Aachen (Germany), so not so far from you.
Till
Hi Till, I would be interested in the Tachibana if you happen to have some budwood
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A really interesting collection, both the ones you have and the future possibilities.
Well over half unknown in Australia, even in research collections.
I hope to learn more about them.
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Hi Peep,
That is a nice collection you got there! I happened to have bought the Satsuma Miyagawa and Iseki from Adavo this year, so I would be able to send some budwood later this year.
I had ordered some Kabosu from Adavo some years ago, but by now all of the trees have died. They might carry a disease. Anyways, I contacted them and they said they would have new plants available in august this year.
I would be interested in your Yuzu N°3 and Hanayuzu if you have some budwood available :)
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind about the Miyagawa and Iseki! I am also wondering about the safety of getting Kabosu from Adavo, don't want plants with the HLB virus. I know Lenzi had his Sudachi tested.
Can't promise yet if I'll have budwood available of the smooth skin hanayuzu and yuzu N°3, but I will write it down so I can check in autumn. I do have Yuzu N°3 plants available that I have grafted this spring, if you are interested.
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A really interesting collection, both the ones you have and the future possibilities.
Well over half unknown in Australia, even in research collections.
I hope to learn more about them.
Thank you. I'm excited about making some crosses myself in the future. This year I removed all flowers and focus on plant growth, so not sure when I will start. Even if I don't create the next popular and useful new hybrid, I think it's still fun and amazing to have some unique plants.
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I am also wondering about the safety of getting Kabosu from Adavo, don't want plants with the HLB virus. I know Lenzi had his Sudachi tested.
you mean CTV not HLB :)
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you mean CTV not HLB :)
Yes indeed, although preferably they won't have either ::)
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true
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hi peep,
If you are still looking for clemyuz22, I could send you bud wood.
For Kinkoji I have to see if it's ready yet.
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Hi Flos
I thought about asking you if I could just drive up to get 2-2 budwood since Antwerp is just north of my town of Cincinnati Ohio USA. I am interest in2-2 but more interested in viewing your citrus collection. After I looked at the map and saw it was a 3 hour drive I decided not to ask you. My wife also said "NO MORE CITRUS TREES".
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hi peep,
If you are still looking for clemyuz22, I could send you bud wood.
For Kinkoji I have to see if it's ready yet.
Thanks you very much for the offer. Maybe in Autumn is better? I can write your name down and the varieties you have, together with wat Till and Mikkel have, and then see in Autumn what's best regarding who can send what. So the least amount of effort and shipments have to be made by the people helping me :)
Hi Flos
I thought about asking you if I could just drive up to get 2-2 budwood since Antwerp is just north of my town of Cincinnati Ohio USA. I am interest in2-2 but more interested in viewing your citrus collection. After I looked at the map and saw it was a 3 hour drive I decided not to ask you. My wife also said "NO MORE CITRUS TREES".
Are you mixing up the town Antwerp in Ohio and the city of Antwerp in Belgium? I'm from the latter.
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Are you mixing up the town Antwerp in Ohio and the city of Antwerp in Belgium? I'm from the latter.
« Last Edit: Today at 10:37:37 AM by Peep »
I just wanted to see a map of Antwerp in Europe and google sent me a map with driving directions with times to Antwerp Ohio USA So I thought I would comment on it. I had no idea that there would be an Antwerp Ohio. Ohio covers 116096.22 Square kilometers and I only know the Cincinnati corner. Doe to disease problems I don't swap citrus of any kind.
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Didn't expect to get excited about something like new plant pots while I'm in my twenties, but I guess here we are.
Also quite the struggle to find good quality, inexpensive pots that aren't black, too decorative, too ugly, or only sold in bulk for nurseries. Earlier I bought a bunch of brown "Toledo" pots from the Action, but they are only available during spring, didn't expect them to be out of season so quick. Now I've settled for these, bit more expensive, but I like the look better, especially in terracotta color: https://artevasi.com/product/venezia-cilindro-pot/ (https://artevasi.com/product/venezia-cilindro-pot/)
Bought the whole stock from the webshop/dealer most local to me ::)
Bunch of 20cm pots:
(https://i.postimg.cc/jnKFyztH/IMG-20220704-131126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnKFyztH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nX38GSP3/IMG-20220705-153325.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nX38GSP3)
As my rooftop can get a little hot, and I'm not sure the roots would like the heat in the black pots, I'm moving away from them.
And some 30cm:
(https://i.postimg.cc/njv00CLn/IMG-20220705-153307.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njv00CLn)
Unfortunately my dealer didn't carry the 25cm size, so my quest for pots continues.
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Made two grafts today, a Sudachi for @incubator01 and a Furrowed Bitter Orange for myself, both on poncirus. Scions taken from plants that I got from Lenzi, which are on carrizo.
The bitter orange scion:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX_tzd6SyMaRkT8_cIN7rvIofgewpAJ4DcqvL91B6qe6_jh5DSvZRRXWZ7ymX-7Qf34U1yR7iblSONM5yK6WVpwRZuWnlfZ6ANRojBVG4KHhasxP0vVDEO-4Qp3l7yzS2xVSczr0TLmrZzdbhTozEKa=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
Cut in the whip and tongue style:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUkWI1s14GazCCwzU24u1Angz-LljgCejPuZqbvfY-Caq-W8Pdo1nbtUg9XLVGcBpGJVgB9XXNq0uc3b1ZWm3zIE6wDEt2t8QntieHEfopcyWiurI_GAjACtIY2sxRkFat_6tETr03ZBBEw6m-F5IFF=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
Quite happy with the fit:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUJ_FmYVWHIsaQn_WG3j8CrGsC-7aje-kuTOsPzZFJFEQpFjI44n_zoEaS0KsWGyOxGKilRZPHF2jk4S4umk2UFYZGhhtPeYFaDaJctf01wGDYnbq5YpbyqBQhUwNh5VK07gTTYnJryTpiLszvyN5Yd=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
One more angle:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUO73WktEZSV3ZcKQDKQo4Z1OxLdB3616S593EMI3KakEjBJHnu_PMUdIfbzmzU5x4r2y1_O8uHNDd2Z0yPUV3Z4GD1QB9JZsBZ_zDJI7HM80nT6pQOT-9I8E65-5EIdwNnlxJO97S9RQ6FAh6r1IWt=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
Wrapped in tape. It's grafting tape, but the cheap kind. Not the good/expensive parafilm kind. So far the cheap one has worked fine, but I'm probably going to try the expensive tape soon.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWN5F9bWNKPDwezpNabWLivbwO242DG8GPgS3q6tqeMHClnZ6qD_cQjx8yjqgo4t4JHlcS82dnawUNrp4gwQqPBf05OnwFSont8FIX-u9aC0iY7HdnZBFHuABTRYMBSEg4m5_8hR9Pu-lPIWKBCnpjW=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
And bagged, I spray some water inside it for moisture:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUA6614pDR14vgV1v4h-DexChuxKDNxPoVVSS5GEsakQ-MMszEsPGEsqhghS7EIHiulMYeMxtyfDBoEBwwK2dfvH3LCTHa_aoIs1H9g68YnaKVarKJl3afTbv1cqyR44gG8-QaAroeopMxFGGNXOFog=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
The Sudachi scion was quite thin and a bit harder to graft, but it still went pretty well I think:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX3fPf8124pSKCIqEsqEppzqXiv10hNWF3Kgwgn98-6OPspd073KLnqF354kcjcp15yTNLFVtb3LCOOJDLGvpPcljRagidV_k7Fn_Yq5itycwxiFtL2AglajjkSsb_ASG2B-sl-1tB0b61-XQRzA551=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
And done:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVGVsi_VTSLX2C3cHaNcr1ScyWzuBVtABQ7aYUS-Pec8lQxOjR2hWiAeNmxjkX9J4yRCvWy978Q3W7f5MAm2dlTs-w2DFxa2IrUvN6YrKYbGjdtCimeNiu403rL5OzzVBkY0hCj5b4XdNFQOVZhGN70=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
Also a picture of my Prague Chimera, it really is an unique variety. The young branches are like jello so I put lots of stakes, but it's growing better than I expected:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXNvXd1eTxsAHXBXc-rzvWWo3sWBXVL-IcAqCgKlhq7wdqgwsZZNF48nq7m2zQkB_Apr7WLvkrZO0jdNyjpEbjPx8TN2BVL_FPe0qVx87NIzdU1mOyhrIX1SOH_8MlNhiyUVN52let4YR4UwRgXyJSL=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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Nice work. The graft unions are barely visible, especially with the bitter orange. I have always used cleft graft but might just try whip and tongue next time.
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Nice work. The graft unions are barely visible, especially with the bitter orange. I have always used cleft graft but might just try whip and tongue next time.
Thanks! And I don't think whip and tongue is that much harder than cleft graft. Only when the scion is very thin and soft it can be risky to cut too deep when making the second cut (the little tongue), and when that happens the knife often slips to one side so you just end up cutting a piece off from the scion. Best way I found of doing it is just rocking the knife like a children's seesaw, and not really pushing the knife down or making a regular cutting motion.
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Does someone know what causes the leaf stem/veins to turn red like this?
It happens on some of my rooted poncirus cuttings:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUhRpPdXEhFVCXYvHE7S1iGcRgTEJN1JbinbKy7Ee84bEXe5TliG5JMxKfbZQgGqvRmcCdvAkQz7e4Haf0gHc9RvsnwdiXmcDkunYyngiNoqjPphffP2N5kKA7zW2_d_mDoPeLeBFh1M4k5j-KzPD9T=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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A lot of plants will do this red thing to protect themselves against UV light damage.
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A lot of plants will do this red thing to protect themselves against UV light damage.
That could very well be possible! These cuttings were recently moved outside, I've now put some plants besides them for shade.
I do also get the dark red/brown new growth on some of my citrus varieties, which I found out is also for of UV protection. But it looks different from the brighter red color on the cutting, I guess either because the leaves aren't as new, or maybe it just looks different on poncirus?
I find it quite fascinating how the plant protects itself like this
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXheDxG5aG4hHXQkeyCksTFJ1ZsxlGVz2yZr9f8M2n_F9GQ7IjJAatekve2MdNkQy_lcip225W_gguKTXgOOZHFve-Z72gYiRGpkiqn4jNAvCxN9nyianNp8NfMRIcizDIIX0GQCrBDcuXoCRPItRkq=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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It may be a phosphorus deficiency. Tomatoes look like that when there is insufficient phosphorus. In any case use a water soluble fertilizer and spray with trace minerals for citrus.
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Does someone know what causes the leaf stem/veins to turn red like this?
With Poncirus it is a type of autumn leaf colour change in response to cold, it is a deciduous species.
In a group of seedlings you could get various shades of orange /red on individual trees, up to bright red.
When they are neglected or underfertilized, they will turn colour earlier than trees still active,
so deficiency seems to be also a trigger factor.
The red growth tips on Citrus is as said, UV protection. It is very common in other non Citrus rainforest plants in Australia, highly ornamental.
Red growth tips in Citrus usually indicates Lime / Citron ancestry.
Rangpur, Lemon, Rough Lemons etc also have pigmented new growth.
Some Papedas also have pigmented new growth, i.e. Makrut / Kaffir Lime
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It being summer here it's probably not the cold, but lack of nutrients could be it. These cuttings were in sowing/cutting soil (which had few nutrients) for some months without adding any nutrients. Repotted them a week ago and now they do get nutrients, so I'll see how it goes. Thank you all for the input.
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Can't promise yet if I'll have budwood available of the smooth skin hanayuzu and yuzu N°3, but I will write it down so I can check in autumn. I do have Yuzu N°3 plants available that I have grafted this spring, if you are interested.
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A grafted yuzu would be nice, if you have a spare :)
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A grafted yuzu would be nice, if you have a spare :)
I think so, I might be able to also help you with a smooth skin hanayuzu plant. I'll send you a message soon.
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Interesting, I'm in Antwerp too.
I don't have a garden though. I used to live in France with a garden and veranda, so now my collection is just trying to survive as it can on my balcony until I move somewhere else with more space.
My own plants are all grown from seeds so they aren't specific varieties, but I just want to say that my C. limon, C. hystrix and C. bergamia trees have been surviving the winters here just fine outside despite not being supposed to be very cold hardy. All growing on their own roots. Also C. junos and C. trifoliata but that's normal for them.
Being in the city helps a lot, and I think we should probably consider our zone to be 9 rather than 8.
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Interesting, I'm in Antwerp too.
I don't have a garden though. I used to live in France with a garden and veranda, so now my collection is just trying to survive as it can on my balcony until I move somewhere else with more space.
My own plants are all grown from seeds so they aren't specific varieties, but I just want to say that my C. limon, C. hystrix and C. bergamia trees have been surviving the winters here just fine outside despite not being supposed to be very cold hardy. All growing on their own roots. Also C. junos and C. trifoliata but that's normal for them.
Being in the city helps a lot, and I think we should probably consider our zone to be 9 rather than 8.
Yes, especially if your balcony is south facing and protects against wind. The rooftop that I grow on can still get some heavy wind, but besides this it's a good spot.
Interesting that your hystrix and other non cold resitant varieties have no problem, have you had cold winters since you moved here? For the past winter it's not so surprising, but eventually there will be a winter with some colder temperatures, even if it's just for a few days.
In case you are looking for more citrus plants, I still have 16 plants available for sale https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fajX4HY9GpOcdNYcnwuZrC8mjZdZe6Z8FkhmGQ5onGY/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fajX4HY9GpOcdNYcnwuZrC8mjZdZe6Z8FkhmGQ5onGY/edit?usp=sharing)
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Can you post a picture of your trees on the roof top. I grow my trees on my roof top
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Interesting that your hystrix and other non cold resitant varieties have no problem, have you had cold winters since you moved here? For the past winter it's not so surprising, but eventually there will be a winter with some colder temperatures, even if it's just for a few days.
My balcony faces north-west actually, but there is probably some warmth coming from the windows that brings the temperature up a few more degrees.
I've been here since 2018 and there have definitely been subzero temperatures more than a few times, including a few days at -5°C last year around January but I don't have anything less on record at my place. In the first years, I used to bring my plants inside and keep just one specimen of each (among those that I thought might be at least somewhat cold hardy) outside to test it. I did lose a C. australasica and a C. glauca like this. It's no citrus but I also have a Passiflora tripartita (also rated to around -5°C, but likely more fragile than the citruses) growing on my house, and I tend to think of it as an indicator that would die sooner than them.
The estimations on the cold hardiness of C. hystrix on the Internet are all over the place, from -8°C to +2°C, while C. limon and C. bergamia are supposed to be able to withstand -5°C or so. In any case I now consider these plants to be mostly fine down to -5°C. If it was any colder I would take some measures for protecting them.
And thanks for the offer but my wife wouldn't be pleased if I asked for yet more space for plants ;) I'm going to wait for the bigger house first!
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Little update.
Repotted and changed the soil of my plants, some of them had some issues with root rot.
Now I used a mix with lava stone and also some pine bark:
9 cups lava (5 cups fine lava 4-8mm and 4 cups coarse 5-15mm)
7 cups potting soil
6 cups pine bark mulch (10 - 25mm)
1 cup sand
Not sure yet if I like using the pine bark, but we'll see how this mix does for now.
Most of the citrus are sitting outside on the roof. After we have finished soms work on a wall that is to the right, I can put them against it. This will help a bit with the wind up there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWajDKvhwhnVtU3DZzFr3z_uySrcEkFDanUoPEkehZma7gDsSJ4aBTF25dab7fBjQ776ucT2njULFmD0qQAsMMiGMhJi17XbxLYLvDhjPCggsvRskxJ_NrTBh65Sl9KissRPgVUPEczuwjsWrJDhwAl=w1080-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWu9PaiWO56J3TX5KkxgQ2jDdY8SYOYHxY8vuVsLBCfvgqTYlTL2MH6lA-9ye0mDllIRiC3vKG_0slEuutEh4mIXg1XfQUQ5_IoyjzwvXzk4Zs-2h5Qk4XYpk2kZfy_MDzGG4d-daVDrCtYMC93Tx9K=w1080-no?authuser=0)
I also have a few plants indoors. Two new grafts, a "Smooth Skin Hanayuzu" (from Lenzi) which started growing quickly, and also a US119:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWGCnVQK02135jnJinTC8iUH36X1rtM8J7Xc9UW71-BrXx5z5NEAA3ObnY795vwEDczvMkf2UFNNFbdD4l2W2bf4CFB9jDLPcBFWvZGH5u-gAO34_Ui9IDpSZnXXsPUpsnHMdfp2Tg1mcJyCOFKxqpl=w629-h943-no?authuser=0)
And also a plant (right) where I have made a second graft. First one was Satsuma Maxima, and second (with the plastic bag) is the Smooth Skin Hanayuzu. The Kerji (left) had a new shoot in a spot that would give a nice shape for the plant, but due to the temperatures it hasn't been growing, so I took it inside:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVWRYZrsZwIqHoBmnyhFNLxukPM94W1Gu2MvyTCs3oWNxFWIjJludnYBdxktdZobLZF8YCNTmBtxbhBORuD4sVFYnq6UO6TO3a3y9Id3hUePLhIz02LIyz29oR4OlN75qO_8_Z4F-ylp8eVAHDi3p8o=w629-h943-no?authuser=0)
I also made and order from Adavo, which has shipped out today.
I'm still a bit scared of plants from Adavo being infected. I might keep them separate, not really sure how to handle it. Any advice?
I should be receiving these plants:
- Hanayu (Hana Yuzu)
- Hana Yuzu (The "Sudachi" version which isn't Sudachi)
- Trifeola
- Kabosu
- Kishu-mikan
- Hashimoto Satsuma
- Taiwanica / Nansho Daidai
- Poncirus x C. unshiu
- C. unshiu x C. junos
- YUZU N°1
- YUZU N°4
- Citrangeremo
- Glauca x Shekwasha
- Ichang Papeda IVIA
- Citrus sinensis "GLORY MIČURINA"
- Triploïde Reale (bought for someone else)
Best regards,
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Your potting mix sounds very well-draining. That could be a bit too much during hot weather. I once used a similar mix and had to water constantly and the citrus had red spider mites all the time.
I also have a Hana Yuzu "buccia liscia" from Lenzi. It came with a few fruits that really had smooth skin. Oddly enough, later fruits have had a much more bumpy rind. It is not really smooth anymore. I don't have a normal Hana Yuzu anymore for comparison, though.
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If you mean a pumice for lava, it could be OK, but at least in France lava is something else- red colored stuff obtained by grinding of volcanic rock.
It is considered unsuitable for citrus cultivation because of high abrasive action on the roots.
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If you mean a pumice for lava, it could be OK, but at least in France lava is something else- red colored stuff obtained by grinding of volcanic rock.
It is considered unsuitable for citrus cultivation because of high abrasive action on the roots.
Unfortunately I could not find pumice anywhere, I don't know why it's so rare. Only way I could buy it was a bigbag (1 cubic meter), which is way too much, but mostly the problem is also that I live in the city and we don't have anything like a driveway for them to put it.
Best I could do was this: https://www.compo.be/fr/produits/paillage/autres/compo-pouzzolane (https://www.compo.be/fr/produits/paillage/autres/compo-pouzzolane)
I hope it won't be too sharp. Do you have any other recommendations for something that could be better?
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Your potting mix sounds very well-draining. That could be a bit too much during hot weather. I once used a similar mix and had to water constantly and the citrus had red spider mites all the time.
I also have a Hana Yuzu "buccia liscia" from Lenzi. It came with a few fruits that really had smooth skin. Oddly enough, later fruits have had a much more bumpy rind. It is not really smooth anymore. I don't have a normal Hana Yuzu anymore for comparison, though.
I'm curious if the smooth skin hanayuzu from lenzi is the same as the Hana Yuzu "Sudachi" from Adavo.
For the watering of the plants in summer I might use those drip watering lines, similar to what they use in nurseries. Not sure yet.
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Do you have any other recommendations for something that could be better?
Perlite is a good alternative for pumice. Also small clay pebbles.
I personally prefer to use 1:1 mixture of coarse cheap compost and coconut husk mulch (in France it is sold as Paillage Coco). I wash it several times with tap water to remove sea salts and equilibrate it with Epson salt solution. Coconut coir is porous and is a good exchanger for both cations and anions that prolongates fertilizer action.
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Perlite is a good alternative for pumice. Also small clay pebbles.
I personally prefer to use 1:1 mixture of coarse cheap compost and coconut husk mulch (in France it is sold as Paillage Coco). I wash it several times with tap water to remove sea salts and equilibrate it with Epson salt solution. Coconut coir is porous and is a good exchanger for both cations and anions that prolongates fertilizer action.
Do you let your plants in the compost/coconut mix stay outside in rainy seasons? With how much rain we got here the past weeks, I would be afraid that there would not be enough air in the soil.
And do you have a preference for perlite or clay pebbles? I find conflicting information about which to use. Or is a mix of both recommended?
I was looking at 8-16mm clay pebbles: https://www.brico.be/nl/tuin-buitenleven/planten-potten/bodembedekkers/dcm-kleiknikkers-hydrokorrels-40l/5156218 (https://www.brico.be/nl/tuin-buitenleven/planten-potten/bodembedekkers/dcm-kleiknikkers-hydrokorrels-40l/5156218)
Or 2-6mm perlite: https://agrifield.nl/products/perliet-100l-zak-premium-perligran (https://agrifield.nl/products/perliet-100l-zak-premium-perligran)
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They do stay for almost entire winter outside. Coconut coir drains perfectly, never had any problems with roots.
I guess perlite is good, but has a tendance of floating to the surface, while pebbles should be as small as possible.
Seramis pebbles are among most suited link (https://www.geosism.com/fr/sols-substrats-et-agregats/151-seramis-2-5-mm--1-kg---2-5-l--detail)
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Plants from Adavo arrived yesterday. Everything looks alright.
As expected the "chimera" doesn't look like a chimera and probably isn't. I will just put it up for sale as an orange.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWDng6hWaP2s8ZvM7o4aTy9KJxLyxbwbMANELWbUx680Jr_U2yMghSuhLB4UHNmyTpmj5MA-DI81OYtjYMnzi4CwCIBt3awuoazs63ToHu3JsuOIjtgAzzuMXyvhE5b23_cv47H8jRUIMf4O8FN6MJj=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
And here a picture of all the plants together:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXGUeleAODqJybe0LR87r9gY0DFfxPqtcMEDsj-dY-qpyTgco1tZiPRupCCbHoeOWVvv2TiPP2GzrG3uKSfPS42Wc2rLIDNG2p_ccVSXmtdGIbxfgUGE7-uiY3iQCWELIPsJcw15Kv9fGJzbj6lKaA6=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
I might put the Yuzu N°1, N°4 and Glauca x Shekwasha in the ground in the garden as experiments. These three are not so important to me to have in the collection so if they die it's not the end of the world.
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Does someone have some insight on the hardiness difference between satsuma and sudachi/kabosu? Not the average satsuma cultivars, but the more cold hardy ones like Hashimoto and Corsica SRA 145. Would it be correct to say that Sudachi and Kabosu are more cold hardy than these satsuma cultivars?
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Well drained soil that is being watered constantly is pretty ideal for citrus. They don't like mulch or soggy souls like clay though it's possible for them to grow it's not optimal. Regular potting mix works fine but some sand added is even better especially crushed shells. Our sand in Florida is full of shells high in calcium. Citrus love calcium. Bone meal is good fertilizer for them because of this.
Anything in a pot outside on a hot day needs watered almost every day but they seem to grow fast under those conditions. I started adding small amounts of clay and mulch because stuff dried so fast and it's so hot in Florida. I just mean plants generally not specifically citrus. I did mulch my citrus in a pot for similar reasons. Though normally they don't like dampness associated with citrus in the hot summer they dry out so.fast so it's fine.
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Citrus like to dry out between watering they don't like soggy roots. So it's not a problem if they get really dry for a couple days. Good drainage is good for them. Though they can take a lot of water as long as they get to dry out for a bit. Its more common to over water them instead of them drying out. It's hard to dry them out too much because they are built to keep moisture with thick leaves and such.
Shells are almost entirely calcium carbonate. 99.9% will stay in the shell so crushed shell is almost the same as sand but a tiny amount of calcium will leak out which is good but you don't have to worry too much about it affecting salts, ph or being too much because it's small. But almost impossible for citrus to get too much calcium.
Bone meal will release a lot more calcium and other nutrients as it rots and of course fertilizer with micro nutrients should have calcium. Not sure why citrus like it so much. Never heard of it with other plants other than trace amounts. Here in Florida the river water, tap water etc has a lot of calcium due to the shells and such. It makes for really good soil for citrus. Florida had the best oranges in the world until the greening.
Though shells are alkaline. A small amount shouldn't significantly change the soil. Pure sand is neutral ph though a lot of sand are alkaline due to shells or minerals mixed in them.
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1rainman,
Your post is a very good demonstration how different are requirements for citrus growth at 28 and 48N.
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For citrus calcium nutrition, I have always used calcium nitrate every 5 or 6 watering. As far as I know calcium nitrate is just about the only completely soluble calcium fertilizer.
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I though poncirus doesn't like (a lot of) calcium?
Does someone have some insight on the hardiness difference between satsuma and sudachi/kabosu? Not the average satsuma cultivars, but the more cold hardy ones like Hashimoto and Corsica SRA 145. Would it be correct to say that Sudachi and Kabosu are more cold hardy than these satsuma cultivars?
Just quoting this question so it doesn't get buried ;)
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Poncirus is used as root stock and does well here. I grew my Meyer lemon in Cincinnati in miracle grow potting soil nothing special though I fertilized it.
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In my experience this Shelly sand is junk for growing stuff other than cactus and similar plants like pineapple. But a small amount of it mixed with potting soil or compost plants love it.
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Small update.
Got some poncirus fruit from the botanical garden:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVUrsA-KAy3UQpjNkwwgrAUWbINiAdjYTJlE2TgOd5cznZFWxkzqhBF4-edjZMk1kc3p6Sca0ovrLpkxHXu8xKqnMU2yGwELHinmy-TJ2a_XvVfRFbQTOYh9aoQ_fT43edgvy3BRJ116oCdBrgWDZjW=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
Obviously not to eat, but for the seeds. Although I came across one that was seedless, I wonder how often this happens with poncirus?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXq14iMRjUCBb4IfdW00U0C984ws9YZYVUJxsDTLN__dyHCZ9RT72t3BjtghLaUDmJH5eNLYUTwGFVuwgKfd7-yG6Fxv7eWaXz-CLXUAQ-auJFmK-bRATs5QDrhi5Lsf3ysJ_prlxjVojCt8v67eflq=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
After squeezing I found one underdeveloped seed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWY37z5PfCn7ZZlJBdzr_3HXC8sYodNjXGreycxUkWasx4H_rIrviSIzQQzt869WZqEi1_KvaqlrSoTMdTGYGzxaj9m9eeokNEAioqUxtOHmFzFjDV_uSDUSzqTqSDZDslAIXw3A0sk-X-TlV2qFdQr=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
These two I grafted late in the year, on September 1st. One US119 and one Smooth Skin Hanayuzu. The moisture, sunlight and temperature balance isn't so easy when keeping them inside the house and they don't grow as well as the ones I did earlier, but they seem alright.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEX9nPWm3X9P0hg8xyFajWwQGfygyhOaVe3PzSb6z0aEhHctU-oBuD_lpfv7Vid9uqYiGue1IaT7nCzuHpoxHnvWBy1XgGsYuFTvF2HMw4agRVSb7gJzMfShSwVJWZwWGarhSLj06Jj0MYRSqK10m8vy=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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Is anyone able tell me what these lumps on this young branch are? Could this be from gall wasp? I'm a bit concerned. Few weeks ago there was also resin coming out of different spots on this branch, the big bits I removed some weeks ago, but you can still see it a bit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEX3IDcQfo_of8ydVAKEpR2up9GdR3h9QjHHTeOhVJxG-rqnEfVNntSnd5n99hX34Lbm1DN9CCSvtDslH6W8bZ4E_etNQJjfKXKi3CCWRk67upm-ZbTZa0e48kpA3N1RLigbZZLZ_gUqDdGSDPbqfepq=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXAXXyaRv-mBvjuDNVUSKbRJmt7sEonrfmC0oCVA2zIHV_UlSv24hDB3KsKEmtPbHIC0qAfZMFc1ESixrIwl4dc5usocHO1wK_PLNyJGtkBzUPOCg7WMsuFujMLpuvbnKXQQE09PGjkCq6VupGUzrrO=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEU2raKk7KpzhkSumxSdINEzabnTkCmCMN4omq-XFNrSNGzuj256v_T1ZVljpYo5anUMqu76L2oip-cqa2qsFDHHHvXVU1oZLkLfnlvsMWlbGoSMdCxQ0Wyl_7NdhhbN66a8-Odfd24Q4JEHn0JNtY04=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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Because I bought plants from Adavo, including Kabosu, and there are some rumours about the possibility of it having Tristeza, I have ordered test kits.
These are home kits, it works similar to how covid has detailed PCR tests and also simple positive / negative tests for home use.
Here is more information for who is interested: https://orders.agdia.com/agdia-immunostrip-for-ctv-isk-78900 (https://orders.agdia.com/agdia-immunostrip-for-ctv-isk-78900)
To buy it in Europa you have to contact the European side of the company, located in France: https://www.agdia-emea.com/en/product/citrus-tristeza-virus-2 (https://www.agdia-emea.com/en/product/citrus-tristeza-virus-2)
Email reply was quick, shipping as well, will arrive tomorrow. Pricing is €54 for 5 tests and €160 for a set of 25. Shipping to me in Belgium was €28 (FedEx), and with taxes the 5 test kit came to €98,40 including shipping.
Not really sure which plants I will test besides the Kabosu.
This is what I have from Adavo, so can't test them all. Suggestions for which varieties are at the highest risk are welcome.
- Hanayu (Hana Yuzu)
- Hana Yuzu (The "Sudachi" version which isn't Sudachi)
- Trifeola
- Kabosu
- Kishu-mikan
- Hashimoto Satsuma
- Taiwanica / Nansho Daidai
- Poncirus x C. unshiu
- C. unshiu x C. junos
- YUZU N°1
- YUZU N°4
- Citrangeremo
- Glauca x Shekwasha
- Ichang Papeda IVIA
- Citrus sinensis "GLORY MIČURINA"
- Triploïde Reale
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Is anyone able tell me what these lumps on this young branch are?
Copper deficiency is possible.
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Copper deficiency is possible.
From a quick google it seems that could be a possibility, big thanks for the tip!
I happen to have some copper sulphate on hand (the blue crystals), I'll try to find some information on the dosage and give it a go.
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Today I have tested my Kabosu from Adavo for the Tristeza virus. Everything done with care. My result is negative. There is always a small chance that it is a false negative. My plant may not have enough virus or the test may not have been accurate. Or that other Kabosu plants from Adavo have it, but mine doesn't. I can't rule anything out completely, but I can share my experience and the result of my plant and test. It would still be interesting to see more people test theirs.
Here are the pictures:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWJuq2qC-wXSpeVa7CNgF1WG8RtBqaLa88Bcsj5vSZP2cbELyv6NInOC3B0CdWmZq6WmgAS5htgxcF5AIN-vHdZaIpSWTDg9aT9LovaQ9Di0sEKyMCWGKKNx3lygTnClBriBS8McG864d0a9wxA8cUX=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVxaVBp36sK_0sYyGJtEUiEdWEmWmi4Ed-h_4AZr7yc213UKc0Hc6vL9SkGEb2RjXHOW4wHLGch2A6uE_O2gsdQZEMgd8wVHyugCXHyABxwjlssHVCX_JjTPOSfkV8zdaeeFqBqjSIG63cFb9VsB2WH=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXWFkNQZZJx19asDitPm60vZqsDcFAszaDr393mC4-Ro-1wabQUP6V9onJmgSz_QdPElRCmnG4hQ8MJ4GRtrUOO3l7sZvmHzFrZvnVB3Q35FcJhGyIkLCmo11ibRxEWQj3y9XrEMgWkpCZiRPIkK7Z2=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUiwgmnb5NWjqmS2pb1UsDgfFDSO0xH7Qi9oTAqcLS61KoXRHN9TOxnn-6Z1U8Kdp8IAxiRP_tRgQwJdboRRYvMdNXl2dsRlCpo6H2l0IJJTKdORJ3YZJAbnbLHQMoBeZVtNVJtiZbYDDnNQPWW_uTc=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWD85Uh8zBfAvO-JQrfII9O6LzxJ7axMxum7k5dv8Szkt6D7Ny-sJ7VlJNXoOLt7LwhaVEqwFbM1x3q-XLKTa1gMsA_kQUR7U_KGFzZeDrimghbZ06605WYEd8EKp72EAHq-YaQbRKToPHC5qmXQIt8=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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And where did you get the test? Do you have a photo of the packaging?
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And where did you get the test? Do you have a photo of the packaging?
A few posts earlier I wrote about where you can buy it. What do you want to know from the packaging? The test strips are in an air tight tube shaped plastic container, put in a ziplock bag together with the sample extraction bags. This was put into the FedEx packaging.
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Unless proven otherwise, I will assume you did everything right and the test worked fine thus your Kabosu is free of Tristeza. I don't have it exactly because I was told by the French that it had Tristeza. Might just get it some time after all..
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Unless proven otherwise, I will assume you did everything right and the test worked fine thus your Kabosu is free of Tristeza. I don't have it exactly because I was told by the French that it had Tristeza. Might just get it some time after all..
I believe it is possible for my plant to have it, but not active enough for it to be tested. Some cultivars are more sensitive to it than others.
There seems to be an alternative, but slower, way of testing, where you graft a piece onto a cultivar that is sensitive to CTV. I'm educating myself on it more.
"The objective of biological indexing is to detect the presence of CTV in plant accessions or selections or in samples whose sanitary status is being assessed, and to estimate the aggressiveness of the isolate on Citrus aurantifolia (Mexican, key or Omani lime), C. macrophylla or Citrus paradisi Macfadyen (Duncan grapefruit) seedlings"
https://www.fao.org/3/cb4687en/cb4687en.pdf (https://www.fao.org/3/cb4687en/cb4687en.pdf)
Unfortunately I do not have any of these varieties, so I would first have to get seeds and grow them. Some people say Bitter Orange is also sensitive, although not as much as the others. I do have a bitter orange on carrizo rootstock that I do not need anymore, so I'm trying to find out if it's worth it to graft kabosu on it. Someone on Facebook also just told me that I can graft a sensitive plant onto kabosu for the same results. I do have Pomelo Enzo, which is a seedling of Duncan, if I'm not mistaken. So I could try that, but my Kabosu is small and I'm not sure it has a good spot to graft to unless I'm ruining the plant itself.
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I have Kabosu from the budwood that I got from Roberto. The leaves are less round and have some suspicious wrinkles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TKZQs4bZ/20221123-160131.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKZQs4bZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LYmkKK80/20221123-160232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYmkKK80)
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I have Kabosu from the budwood that I got from Roberto. The leaves are less round and have some suspicious wrinkles.
From a quick google I do notice there are quite a few pictures where Kabosu leaves have some wrinkle to them.
I also noticed how round the leaves are. This is also on my Taiwanica from Adavo. They seem to be quite similar actually.
Is Roberto someone from this forum?
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Zitrusgaertner on this forum.
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A few posts earlier I wrote about where you can buy it.
Thanks, I missed it.
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Some updates:
I germinated 80 poncirus seeds. Placing them in wet vermiculite and on a heating pad with temperature sensor set to 26°C worked very well.
(I put a lid on it.)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVkIJ-WQG6MbhFE8Xx1rRHqxPLQPWNxpJACUdqhm0dGcZVXBVtRt2B3mBxPW-k_GZDj1JWJRhT8-E6gtjGD-wWzatGZ-7bHMmz1SHlclXczYAP_iQPAgiXBmSIL0n-NkkOpiqXrCIXUe1ZpJZk1-Hua=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
For the optimum germination temperature of different cultivars you can find interesting information in this scientific paper: https://journals.flvc.org/fshs/article/download/86283/83199 (https://journals.flvc.org/fshs/article/download/86283/83199) and this next one also has some interesting data regarding germination times: https://journals.flvc.org/.../article/download/85824/82740/0 (https://journals.flvc.org/.../article/download/85824/82740/0)
I placed them in the vermiculate on the 2nd of December, this is what they look like today:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUEFRUV8BYoy_mhii6wKJ4wTMvGmSxMAh2Koirr28TAikhwvPsXDmYnmr8_pmCR46Z0XXUpC00MpUYcLBUs9fQxqZJc88hy8Jt0XiHNDpY2Ti44th7zEBNVybZUbKCj2Bn8gk1MztC5C9pxcKsm5zHx=w653-h870-no?authuser=0)
I always keep them covered with a clear box so the air moisture stays high.
I also made a grow light setup for the seedlings:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXVjZ9JpReP6-qQc9GuSZpTjAwp_4nwhGXEonj9qYalPdWztYouDhLpIEkfpm6r7qSAzv5gxobZs99H5ZRrNQXBIbvNh0MHkDMUN3Cw5z3FoitAhzjBV_wJvg_MgTxVGGWxxHPnSTZAkMY47bsya0kW=w490-h870-no?authuser=0)
It's a bit difficult though to regulate a good air mosture level. If it's too moist then the LED lights get wet from condensation after turning them off. I ruined €100 worth of LED's before figuring that out.
Other good news (at least to me) is that I managed to get a Nameiwa kumquat from Vessieres:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXFBcIqs-qPpEH-0qJYBeE5BJL4NVV2VW-RLCPhuKiMFjYXlDN7S7TwIdNWczixPJGcI0jmEgDx57EBaJJaF40T_HfmBs_Rx88ybLF5jMDL_ih6A_HUFSArB2bGN-evyC56nDAMXiMqXflyWPntsnji=w653-h870-no?authuser=0)
It's on C35 rootstock, but I will graft a piece onto poncirus and also use it to send some scions to other people.
On Monday another order from Adavo will ship to me. This time with scions, ten C4475 rootstocks, and another Citrangeremo. Shipping cost from Adavo is always the, even for scions it's the same as up to 16 plants.
The scions will be: Ichangquat, Ichang Lemon CRC 1215, Eremorange and Citradia "Eisenhut 139
I have poncirus rootstock and use this the most, but I thought it could be nice to put a few of my most hardy varieties also on C4475 for the increased growth speed.
I'm not sure how I can best graft the scions and where to place the grafted plants, because it is winter at the moment. I asked the question here, advice is always appreciated: https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=49846.0 (https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=49846.0)
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I have Kabosu from the budwood that I got from Roberto. The leaves are less round and have some suspicious wrinkles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TKZQs4bZ/20221123-160131.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKZQs4bZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LYmkKK80/20221123-160232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYmkKK80)
Ilya, can you remember, when did I send you this budwood? I think it came from a plant I have lost in the meantime. Originally from a Citrus-friend from Germany. Most likely it is not from Adavo (but I do nor know his source)
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Ilya, is your Kabosu hardy in your garden?
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@Zitrusgaertner
You sent me budwood in 2017
@Mikkel
No, it is still in pot and gave the fruits for the first time this year.
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So on the 12th of January my order from Adavo arrived.
The C4475 seedlings had been taken out of their pots and grouped together in plastic bags. From some of the soil that was still holding shape I could see that they likely used the same as what I put them back into (7x7x18 I think).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DpaOBzZiEWTLs9ARY5mSQbU9bAW8C-bqkq0wBm77UKDppeQiZwcVTOpn06k7VYtQ2339cZIbjFCjYJM--fPwBvGCVeEbWXwcNeB5G5tm5PCSIFlCB_Jc03XC1LsNX6SD8WiTQ0ngCYrIFWIWOTf9Jp=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
I ordered 10, but I got a few extra it seems, that's nice. Looking neat after putting them all in pots. The size is not too bad for grafting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BU3VgPydfEfVVEjVKselBPr3ule55UgnDUhfKGABQWgR0TzrLmufl9a9UH4V4kHGWOqfh_VxQJemC3WfMwBOAgZYFsMUjt8Z84yiHg7biO4nTuz4qfIUlT_7QM5YVy9GLnW9Uht-t1EAIEPnsSppH-=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
I ordered scions from Ichang Lemon CRC1215, Ichangquat, Eremorange and Eisenhut Citradia 139. Placed them in a shady spot outdoors in a bucket with some water. I grafted part of them the day they arrived and part of them the day after:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CkaYPj1KRFwPxnxhv3hZdnVaZisqLhlQfUKk2y5dTJicUjRqB86OYEf9ahISk4Ckhfh4tZiTDT3VltY0JO_jwl83lGko8i-2-yfJj_T_5v5skMy1eKCaYTdd97fLbs_ozws-hQwxePBFtmN6rYnmgk=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
Some of the scions, and the C4475 seedlings as well, seemed to be infested with bugs. Not sure if they are aphids or mites, or something else? I rinsed everything under running water and hope it doesn't spread. Might spray the C4475 with some soapy water and neem oil in a few days in case any survived.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8Catp-gzEDmu5HGADI9iVhRh1Cmb5F-psMggW9lWMdauUzYGDNYJF-7o56mz7RurilNiDaW-nV6rzT-OU5FDhyyfthvZCVZiAkw-rZSPI_drH6lODJaSwDiSojgexyCs7xbBI2LUT0Taa6H41tiEFVa=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
Another downside was that some of the scions were quite thin. Especially the Eremorange seems a bit too thin and immature. I think I'm good at grafting, but this is seriously annoying to work with, keep in mind my fingers are already quite slender:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BvOVjJgnYZ3SkCcTQ5e3AujjxRc7_-wk6hGZkNYklyOMZzQO2lmBdeBcSW6BX_YuSR1hkdLeiG3piaFsJWh4acK1uNEQAn2S1Z3xs9fmHc_k0x0EijL2-Cc5BF2AGpJRWm-0ssroSlYkQKqN1hdcwQ=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
Anyway, I still managed to get some reasonable grafts with it, so fingers crossed
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8B8XTfGSujcHAcn-zkG7Vbk7KyfXxqLM94Zhv_vuKCVo0jM8J7z-N1M6rt_sEImeOkgwyKxHhsB94YV173sB2B3fkwLfqQHXYjmZPSzkA4HCH87UFU2V7wN1su4SBtP2fdEghp9oEMq6XJqHiR9euUJ=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
Another hurdle is that my rootstock was still dormant. I didn't put them indoors beforehand, because I didn't know what size of scions I would receive and couldn't pick out the right size of rootstock. I also didn't want to wake up all my rootstock and then have to put most of them outside again.
So I put a heating pad inside a cardboard box and put the newly grafted plants in there. Hoping that the heating pad would quickly wake the rootstock up. For the first week I left them in a cold room, between 12 and 15°C. So the rootstock would be warm, but the scions cool. After that week I placed them in a room of maybe 18°C. A few centimeters deep the soil is 23°C. Haven't measured deeper down (warmer).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DMiEWkX5bAl8kFkeZtB6Wv91Qp4k2QEBE5U5eyZLv-1SguaFTmQ-zOvt7uIAQHpL1RMhnqqvUFZvHJNfTQzUB0AHj3SinbuJIdQpIZBfGBgso2xMfMnDb0NmiHsAsfs4QX6IGDCnrBMwHNPp2315xq=w558-h992-no?authuser=0)
Usually I grafted end of March or later and with freshly cut scions, so I'm curious how this will end up.
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I should probably update this a bit more often, but anyway.
- First flowers on my Prague Chimera:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8CkN5Yq9z19-_UPr4RLHhfNTHWmkEuDryVzPL1wgizI6U0d7FcKP456OJ3jRvaeBuOwgV206yNzFIWMqvNmzmVq3EcPl6ptrXJPwUmVN54Z_XpnuO4I1FZ17V_zatt7hJHRuwgEAJyWEyx7TkgIlPW=w535-h951-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc85qEVWdr9ANlwuppcji1cP0dkMWa5jJu1R40CUM7K57CxytFFvUFcD8vy83lEW5W9MrrN-DgU8n9AAslSRLfjaugUS0O-KJiqFCgsiQM228Aaa8DTgAAycPNMDiQQls7MYnAfU9Blx0JiAdTc_e1s5=w535-h951-s-no?authuser=0)
- I visited the 'Plantentuin Meise' not far from Antwerp here, and they had some citrus. Supposed to be an 'extensive collection', but I guess that's relative when you own more varieties yourself, but I guess for Belgium the standards are not super high.
The good thing however was that they had Yuzu, Sudachi, Natsu Daidai, some kind of Asian lime and then two Tachibana's. Besides the regular things like bitter orange, orange, cedro, kumquat...
Not sure if both Tachibana's were the same or not. One is labeled as Tachibana (Makino) Yu.Tanaka (https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/crc3150 (https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/crc3150)) and the other just as Tachibana.
The first one:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc9W7dl1HvrofbUkDIu9FTmbPf9udgc2ZeA6Xk35jEEOwz_6yZI8TRpabZQ9p6qZW7sTla7vu9LhlvM85InoRzB_WD1VTzCzjMuQwcnBgrFm89l2Rmd8NYEw5hTqX_Gd6OldGsdIteskw_yegxmk_8gx=w525-h933-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc89lbGNdjPpUXInjdCkyDcCT1GNnXROW0ctk3NtWnQkNO9GWuGC600SMl6szDplY97EHnk21PP5F1hFKLrtkBuRWmDuw1qP1y6ulsXL6GDMy01paCWDuPkDdxgPnu47jdQ0o0mWqsB8WN7fqLMVfljD=w525-h933-s-no?authuser=0)
And the second:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc9iEb22XRSs6xwQ4XXO3Ul6PIEFD5aA5eqKMopqfMST9TVydPLdLzrBw9yrFGC5wKKDTxIP5lGzMG3nu1HTRvAZRWdwlXXAuHRFPKbXkbze3nYCB-ehDuAYeWulfrdMD3IX7b92yoz4RlTvEQM-Ro6w=w525-h933-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc_x2_TzYnvacpJczs7VYp-KQAvMZ3dLK07fdakcWiip09ldYn1mv1lcQiMpbCsQkY5pYejM-oC5_Yhezt8Ty07hdviWozACSBngorN7b-fzAAKsn95cka9zrUfCchZCHzN2mK5nVY9rAZ0cFupnsLjS=w525-h933-s-no?authuser=0)
From the first one I found a fruit:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc9AKeOhsQQvkcEl9yliGXi7wB_ef8b74AnOKn1urRNWVMePRuXdPBCnXX4HfgfihoqWd4ia2d8NwQg0di2muw1ZVtcnlhEADKnIqKTmYEeV-PLUrVM5XwJJ2dxDCebToTwa4uE1soNdYod1PgxVDCUp=w525-h933-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc-mXWVgHa-Xl5PIP587qo8lIGHv6rejt5RyNxoO0Re5KroeKPoQ4BrWzjNuMSON89J-q5B77Fygyl17re3OdQsDYekD2cfrKXZb5CkAUlvHuoOMGvI2vtmOmiMmpNCuc-WP5cHQT02kZFuubWko4NbD=w525-h933-s-no?authuser=0)
I was quite surprised that the fragrance reminded me a lot of Yuzu. But I have not had the chance to taste any of the other special or hardy citrus varieties yet, only Yuzu from the store, and now this Tachibana. It wasn't sour like Yuzu, only a light sense of sourness. From what I read the Tachibana is more closely related to mandarin, so that makes sense. I've read before that Tachibana can have an unpleasant element in it's taste, but I didn't notice that. It was not very sweet and not very sour, so a bit boring, but not bad. Fragrance maybe not super powerful, but not unpleasant. Could probably use it for marmelade.
And thanks to @Till, who helped me with some scions, I grafted my own Tachibana's earlier this year. The small one has been shipped to another forum member now as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8OSpanyhrazxxHsAWjkNlYc9gYYehnI2NYRTeGj4CYUrOWxh607QIppNqG1tNUnJUvQR7TJ10qBjXQdaojMR2alJloVIq5_uu2Nqgs16QtpIsqw6RbQtWOZIUbAl_mZj5DEuhzxEBKP0oKBNdTb4oE=w535-h951-s-no?authuser=0)
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I'm so glad you enjoyed the tachibana orange! I really don't know why western sources persist in calling it inedible or unpleasant. I think it's quite nice.
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I'm so glad you enjoyed the tachibana orange! I really don't know why western sources persist in calling it inedible or unpleasant. I think it's quite nice.
I kind of enjoy how small the fruits are, it's cute and the plants are pretty. But I try to have only useful and hardy varieties, so Shekwasha is the obvious one to have. But I also wanted Kishu, because the fruit quality/taste is supposedly very good so I made an exception on hardiness. But then I also felt like I had to complete the trio of these tiny-fruit varieties, so I reasoned to myself that Tachibana is at least hardier than Kishu, and I don't remember where, but from memory I think I've read somewhere that, despite the 'supposedly unpleasant' taste of Tachibana, Tachibana can create good/interesting flavor when using it to make a new hybrid. I don't know what information is accurate or not. The taste was a bit weak and boring, but not bad. Maybe it's better when used green, like Shekwasha often is. Or maybe it's when green that there is an unpleasant taste? Anyway, at least I wouldn't have to discard the (ripe) fruits, and would use them to make marmelade or throw them into kombucha or something.
For temperatures I've read:
Shekwasha -13 °C
Tachibana -11 / -12
Kishu -8
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I'm sure growing conditions matter, too, and tachibana is also fairly genetically diverse, such that fruit quality varies a lot. Of course, with them mostly not being grown for fruit eating, that doesn't much matter. I'm curious about your comment about shekwasha: do you dislike them ripe? I like them when very, very ripe; I understand that culturally and commercially they're most useful in Japan when green, but a properly tree-ripened fruit is really quite lovely.
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I'm sure growing conditions matter, too, and tachibana is also fairly genetically diverse, such that fruit quality varies a lot. Of course, with them mostly not being grown for fruit eating, that doesn't much matter. I'm curious about your comment about shekwasha: do you dislike them ripe? I like them when very, very ripe; I understand that culturally and commercially they're most useful in Japan when green, but a properly tree-ripened fruit is really quite lovely.
I also wondered if the two Tachibana's they had would be the same or different.
I have not tasted Shekwasha yet, I expect to use them green because that's how they are commercially used, but like you say, they can also be pretty good when ripe. However, if I'm not mistaken, they ripen during winter, so fruits would get frost damaged, unless I'd have a mild winter.
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I have Kabosu from the budwood that I got from Roberto. The leaves are less round and have some suspicious wrinkles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TKZQs4bZ/20221123-160131.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKZQs4bZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LYmkKK80/20221123-160232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYmkKK80)
My Kabosu has died in the meantime. What ever it was this plant from Adavo was not healthy.
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My Kabosu has died in the meantime. What ever it was this plant from Adavo was not healthy.
I received my Kabosu from him in Autumn, and in spring it took a very long time before it started growing while also having a few leaves turn brown and dropping, so I got a bit concerned, but then it started growing and now it looks quite healthy. Also made a graft with it that was successful and looks alright so far.
EDIT: adding some pictures:
This was it on June 9th:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8XB6lCUDoeRVQncFC-_CT_WW92rRODZZYaH1aQBfFVQXPwKZGRiJiS3IYqoV3c8fMl9BZAWfH6Y2zTY1BKuqgG_Zle-xkvbVmhHoRexvq13F8CMTl71JphGSuX2LlPIolJvlaGATagRQWr_aWtqMm3=w535-h951-s-no?authuser=0)
This is it now:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc-GLmTyAUrxlwyEDFq7qZHluqXn_5Q3WtVAJ6Ar-xRpWVcA_6fmyb07liLtZCgIUHrVXnY2VqZriRnkyCwOgIX6rhxqq--Z5EDfcUD38vvMLn_8yGUG10l1HWfFyUI3Yh2RJGyDBsmkjWQPTuB39pXh=w535-h951-s-no?authuser=0)
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It may be a phosphorus deficiency. Tomatoes look like that when there is insufficient phosphorus. In any case use a water soluble fertilizer and spray with trace minerals for citrus.
??? NO! Healthy lemons, ichang papeda and their hybrids show this phenomenon. Nothing to do with phosphorus defeciency which can rarely be seen with citrus. Citrus do not like phosphorus so there nearly always is more than citrus plants need.
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Does someone know what causes the leaf stem/veins to turn red like this?
It happens on some of my rooted poncirus cuttings:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUhRpPdXEhFVCXYvHE7S1iGcRgTEJN1JbinbKy7Ee84bEXe5TliG5JMxKfbZQgGqvRmcCdvAkQz7e4Haf0gHc9RvsnwdiXmcDkunYyngiNoqjPphffP2N5kKA7zW2_d_mDoPeLeBFh1M4k5j-KzPD9T=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
What is the current situation? Were you growing these plants under lights set for a long day and then changed to fewer hours/natural light? This occurred on some of my 3/4 poncirus hybrids. Change in day length appeared to turn plants dormant. Poncirus leaves frequently turn color before they fall.
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What is the current situation? Were you growing these plants under lights set for a long day and then changed to fewer hours/natural light? This occurred on some of my 3/4 poncirus hybrids. Change in day length appeared to turn plants dormant. Poncirus leaves frequently turn color before they fall.
Yeah the coloring is an autumn sign, it could have been from the light schedule, but at this stage with the leaves grown (during/after rooting) they would have been outside I think. But likely I kept them shaded more than usual because they were young cuttings.
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Little update here;
I managed to add some new varieties to my collection. I got four plants from Vessieres:
- ClemYuz 2-2
- Yuzu N30 Hybrid
- Ichang Lemon 'Wagashi' (this cultivar apparently has small fruits, but the description from Vessiers is all the information I have on it)
- Keraji 'Voss D14' (according to Vessieres a little more hardy compared to the common Keraji cultivar)
I also received scions and made a graft from Taiwanica Nansho Daidai (the variant with long narrow leaves), and received a new Taiwanica plant from Lenzi (different cultivar) because the first plant I had was something else and wrongly labeled.
You can allways follow the progress of my collection through my spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bDS69kX9iBFFes3AHoAaj-wvSEzkFKqQe8QJ008WsaE/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bDS69kX9iBFFes3AHoAaj-wvSEzkFKqQe8QJ008WsaE/edit?usp=sharing)
The four plants from Vessieres after repotting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeRmXuqIimziHXazLuQmKIs431gvFmI5cYlh_rf_yl7gb-5A41T-dMAAVO5yS1R388t0RttmtwpcXJ2E5vasAqjSUB7yOwk8wun0gYjfSGdQ5wGg7vY7MFPZGiPENOpEU0h3gR4ERQxxuoOgn7HMmFV=w531-h945-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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I have obtained an Ichangmoï Elisa, it is a hybrid between Ichang Papeda and Moï (C. Ichangensis x C. Pennivesiculata). It is supposedly very sour.
There is not much information about it, there is a little bit here, but I take the mentioned hardiness with a grain of salt: http://www.agrumes-passion.com/viewtopic.php?p=66826 (http://www.agrumes-passion.com/viewtopic.php?p=66826)
It doesn't seem very popular, but I think it might still have some potential. I think it could potentially also be interesting to cross it with Kumquat, and hope for an 'Ichangmoïquat' that is hardier than the lemon-/limequats, but with better fruit quality than Ichangquat.
The leaves of this Ichangmoï Elisa smell quite pleasant, I compared it with a leaf of Ichang Lemon, and prefered the Ichangmoï. I did only take one Ichang Lemon leaf to compare, so not sure if some leaves might be less or more fragrant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87PA6N9IIOEfp6AVdCBFBnKucfkJSVuA1HD0GEK2mokOUO5YBljXbJY_7Haa-Lh3B5h0pGdXGcomKVPj85PrIiiKgcU3VRO4rmm-54MtWdrS3BZDAI6j4aI89mYn44JH9Eoj2uvGlPzGFhwI1iAld8q=w528-h938-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86-Nz0m95TY0kqStlcXfJ1Xbt3HfLDs0RYDm7h4ZGU07dcGWJWjnr4s0yi2veXNzp2-wyBrWeXUP8TGI50HBduU8fpDFuH5HyiQ_E_AVBOISXRHu6jlGHxvXCxyG4HWh4u717iMu-z2Db54CsWSNyUX=w528-h938-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Began trying to document more about my citrus plants, so I've scanned some of the leaves. Eventually I will scan them all, but some plants are small and not all of them have mature or healthy leaves.
Here are a few examples:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV855KROrRRZ0-Y9wLc5815Hnsnyqbap9I2rPLvhalPzTueTPch3eeyTAGNCSmEe1zaHUVguVv8bsvQyUYg1eGZuTxnonpDa5BQFjPCpA3z8b9NrB8opsDQUONxnvUfCSyIrj0D_Eczrcod264uV7RBVm=w681-h936-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85qiaz4wO5-IAGN6W82p0FJJ97boGnxp8UgEOMTDyCc7M-VBOnE6fnQ74ef-gA9suoAyaSsuw6UaL7NQB4pd25701QLE_0DtryItbJRRpI1YVfURM7mF2jad8DALa9nTaAcPYasEnqoLW0GckgmKLNl=w681-h936-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84MwgiTT4JYzECj6qyu8qWSe0lijQRTBiC3mMwsgRgi7Rtoj_4w0B46zhuMvOXOZoCf-1NZMfGYPeff98V0cLLuiGDG0uMFPQPP5-LBqR03QhFjp5tE1FPAOXpg47ZYemUIZKEgYvakC8JcdXPYfMBq=w681-h936-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Here is the album with all of them so far, when I scan more of them, they will be added here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EV2ys2YzHVpfSvnf8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/EV2ys2YzHVpfSvnf8)
Also feel free to let me know if you see an innacuracy in the naming of the cultivars.
I will try to make a little setup to be able to make good pictures of flowers and fruits. Fruits might take a while before all my plants are big enough, but a fair amount of them should flower in the coming season.
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Great!
Hmm, I took photos for one of my projects. In the future, I planned to make sketches from them. The scans look good. But I don't like that when a leaf is flattened, it is less recognizable on the tree. You also don't have enough scale.
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just a short notice :)
HRS 899A is Changsha x Poncirus , the other way around as on your scan
great work !
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Great!
Hmm, I took photos for one of my projects. In the future, I planned to make sketches from them. The scans look good. But I don't like that when a leaf is flattened, it is less recognizable on the tree. You also don't have enough scale.
Yes, over time I will see if I can find some good naturally flat leaves from the plants, so they don't deform on the scanner. But as I make a little setup to photograph flowers, and eventually fruits, I will also try it with leaves and see how it compares to the scans.
just a short notice :)
HRS 899A is Changsha x Poncirus , the other way around as on your scan
great work !
Thanks, good tip, I'll update it soon.
For this one I was also not sure if everything was correct and optimal:
Kumquat 'Nameiwa'
Citrus Japonica
Citrus Margarita 'Nagami' x Citrus Crassifolia 'Meiwa'
Also not sure if I should remove the Kumquat from the name, because in another one I also don't write Changsha Mandarin, but just Changsha. But I do write things like Ichang Papeda 'Ivia' and Yuzu 'N°3' and not just 'Ivia' by itself. So the question is if the name 'Kumquat' is on the same level as 'Ichang Papeda'
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I would say that since you are using Citrus instead of Fortunella, it is helpful to use Kumquat in the common name. (but this is only my personal point of view)
Kumquats are distinct from true Citrus, although they are no longer a separate genus.
just another note :)
Botanical names are written with a capital letter for the genus, but with a lower case letter for the species names
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I would say that since you are using Citrus instead of Fortunella, it is helpful to use Kumquat in the common name. (but this is only my personal point of view)
Kumquats are distinct from true Citrus, although they are no longer a separate genus.
Yes, I prefer using Citrus trifoliata, Citrus japonica and Citrus glauca. To me it didn't make much sense to have some types being seperated. If so, then I think a cross between e.g. trofoliata and orange, would have been an intergeneric hybrid. So what would we call a Citrange? Also not citrus? I'm not really educated well enough yet in the genetics of citrus for the things I say to have much importance, but this was just a thought I had.
On another note, I hate the name Yuzu N30 as it implies that it's a specific cultivar of pure yuzu. It is very likely a cross with mandarin, but I'm not aware of a name for this type of hybrid (in the trend of Ichang Papeda x Kumquat being Ichangquat). So I would call it either just N30 or for example Yuzu Hybrid 'N30'. I'm not sure what is best. Yuzu Hybrid is not a very official term, so while writing Kumquat 'Nameiwa' still has some sense to it, Yuzu Hybrid 'N30' might not. Opinions welcome. For now I just wrote N30, but this is also very short and generic, a google search of N30 wouldn't give good results for example.
just another note :)
Botanical names are written with a capital letter for the genus, but with a lower case letter for the species names
I should have looked this up earlier, it's corrected now. I also changed the correct parts to italicized text according to the botanical naming rules.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85JAKzoWS12zpDm7Kf2kKkSvkuikakNhavhlfLOrQ_C5enCUxJ7-LCz78Qg0tHUYCv8oQJk4n7EW9Wd6e5pViu2oPt6IpuOlfJQUscAaQ7U3hhdRzTDFIJzP6Wdq47VlO_mvwXtrdD_ke6X49L4CLT-=w686-h943-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84E4CwLicpm3Xk1Up5sRoxcokAorjphvElonIEs_UtovD-Y2JpY9QhUTxlLxvrmkc7pY7gtb8xgXpQtzKJWd8houzEehPlyb1m5LxNcLJUOsPrmDtdLWdmfUKC3eENfyPcOI3MIiYuy5q_z3xQFvtLj=w686-h943-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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It is often referred to as hybrid N°30. But since it is a variety name, there are no rules as to what is correct and what is not.
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Hi peep, hi all
Peep, I think that what you are doing with your citrus collection (gathering infos, images and now scanning leaves) is really great. It will surely be very helpfull.
About yuzu n°30 here is what I've heard:
A couple planted about 250 yuzu seeds in France in a field.
They selected the more cold résistant years after years.
A few are now famous : n° 1, 3 and 30...
It is explained in a youtube video (in french) called "ils cultivent des agrumes résistants au froid "
In the same vidéo they also said that yuzu n30, is called "yuzu"30 because it is from a yuzu seed but that is actually not a "real" yuzu taste. It is more like a mandarin and yuzu mix. They still say it is a very good fruit.
Hope that helps! Cheeers
I add the link of the video (if it worked)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmvSheROGS4
explenation on yuzu n°30 around 19'30seconds.
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A couple planted about 250 yuzu seeds in France in a field.
They selected the more cold résistant years after years.
A few are now famous : n° 1, 3 and 30...
Hi, Zagara!
At first I wanted to object, to say that Sebastian "Alias" did it. But then I watched the video and realized that it was about Sebastian and Bernard. Thanks for the video, it's very interesting.
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Hi peep, hi all
Peep, I think that what you are doing with your citrus collection (gathering infos, images and now scanning leaves) is really great. It will surely be very helpfull.
About yuzu n°30 here is what I've heard:
A couple planted about 250 yuzu seeds in France in a field.
They selected the more cold résistant years after years.
A few are now famous : n° 1, 3 and 30...
It is explained in a youtube video (in french) called "ils cultivent des agrumes résistants au froid "
In the same vidéo they also said that yuzu n30, is called "yuzu"30 because it is from a yuzu seed but that is actually not a "real" yuzu taste. It is more like a mandarin and yuzu mix. They still say it is a very good fruit.
Hope that helps! Cheeers
I add the link of the video (if it worked)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmvSheROGS4
explenation on yuzu n°30 around 19'30seconds.
Actually this video is rather misleading, N30 has nothing to do with Yuzu clonal selection by Sebastian (alias) and Bernard,
Alias presented this hybrid on AgrumesPassion forum some time ago:
https://www.agrumes-passion.com/viewtopic.php?t=5027&sid=0bc24ca43b1fb9d69352b3f0b6d9e2f0 (https://www.agrumes-passion.com/viewtopic.php?t=5027&sid=0bc24ca43b1fb9d69352b3f0b6d9e2f0)
Google translation:
"This new hybrid would be the cross between a juno citrus and a mandarin, obtained in Montenegro (Bar).
Mandarin may be a satsuma (for taste) or a mandarin geleking (for the shape of the fruit).
The skin is lumpy and ribbed orange-coloured. The fruit is about 6 to 7 cm in diameter.
The pulp is orange, acidic and sweet reminiscent of mandarin satsuma a little but with a very pronounced acidity.
This citrus is given as cold-resistant, but to date no tests below -10 degrees Celsius have been carried out. "
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Ilya, can I ask a question a little off topic?
In the above video and in another video from the same channel, they try Shiva-mikan mandarin. It is orange in color and is described as delicious as a Mediterranean mandarin. They have it withstands frosts less than satsuma.
On the other hand, according to the description from Soviet sources, it is a small yellow mandarin with a mediocre taste, which is hardly than satsuma. Zorin used it for crossing with satsuma to get a more hardy variety.
Do you think it could be the wrong variety?
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For me, in this video the color is rather yellow, not orange.
I had this variety in the past, lost it in the winter with -10C low. When tasted in December, fruits were partly green, small, rather acid, some slight bitterness.
In the video they taste fruits in Vessieres nursery situated in 9B zone close to Perpignan, that could explain the difference.
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I add the link of the video (if it worked)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmvSheROGS4
explenation on yuzu n°30 around 19'30seconds.
Yes these videos are very nice! I have watched all of the citrus related videos on this channel. I have to use the subtitles though unfortunately.
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Small general update again:
My first and only harvest so far. It was a fruit from the "Hana Yuzu (Sudachi)" that Adavo sells. It's not really new information, but it tastes like (Hana) Yuzu, Sudachi is not relevant to it. I suspect that it is likely the same as the "Smooth Skin Hanayuzu" (Hanayuzu a buccia liscia) from Lenzi, but I have not tasted that one yet.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84G8NiQEss3cTD6Pk3FKhW1ASZPE6JJAp0P3I2PPRXrw2mNyjcKlTPNsYudFJ-f5n1jEXQtd4b4R519s74CcdIhVB3ncy06pzk24ZqmLL1uRCwyRAmEV4htjSbGG1vLZMbJNr4e2nfllXu9QqlEjIZ7=w630-h945-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84-JCMkBd7MNXqhLznx7FEPEQElacr-AzZtWiCVXMa3jT__08vWXr5_P8qxCjkiwZTFtTJzq2Ygu9DbfCGiSPNh-Hzpjhh9D52xY9biEHpfcHHVqDvquau11CRWsFlOPjo1sli9Ih8JBApDWuSdgfKZ=w630-h945-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
At first I didn't really know what to do with a single fruit, but I ended up using a microplane to grate the skin right into a drinking glass. Squeezed the juice in the glass as well, added some sugar syrup and let it sit for half a day to extract some of the oils in the grated skin. Then just added water in the glass and it was a really good lemonade. Didn't filter out the fine bits of skin, didn't bother me, was a bit like drinking juice with pulp.
Because my plants are on a rooftop, there can be some strong wind turbulence and I was in need of some more protection for certain plants. Recently I finished building my tiny green house in the basement and set it up on the roof. The back (against the wall) is still open so it's mostly wind protection right now.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84uEfnz5Wy0I--v7G2uZXBaxTivwmFbibfV2Yoz6kYiWRhI_Hj-iGm43aDJSujpNxB5DzQbA6VgCzYUwiwhq3ls0_1gO5dZEAuO_FnkPRzCy9KJmIBaA6qhww1k_AWs632nLraZ1tvm1MXiSt6jSH4A=w1278-h719-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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My smooth-skinned Hanayuzu from Lenzi tastes just like regular Hanayuzu. It did have some fruit on it when it arrived that had a relatively smooth skin as far as I remember. But all subsequent fruits have just looked like plain normal Hanayuzu (or like the one you show).
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My smooth-skinned Hanayuzu from Lenzi tastes just like regular Hanayuzu. It did have some fruit on it when it arrived that had a relatively smooth skin as far as I remember. But all subsequent fruits have just looked like plain normal Hanayuzu (or like the one you show).
Yeah, I've been looking at some pictures, and while my fruit wasn't as bumpy as Hana Yuzu fruits are sometimes, it also isn't really more smooth than regular Hana Yuzu that I've seen picutres of.
Maybe the two variants that Adavo sells are exactly the same. Unless one is 'regular' and the other 'extra bumpy'. Instead of regular and smooth.
In the picture on the Agrumi Lenzi website, there is a somewhat unique shape visible on the fruit to the far right. I don't know if this is normal for (regular) Hana Yuzu. I haven't seen this ribbed trait yet in other Hana Yuzu pictures.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86AQJ0qQNF-2SeTXM59eiR2uvqa9GwYyELk9Sr9thdfcPnyoHSCeDiScG8hjig3YZdn2ROVIhsWp4cra57bk7De2QT4xEmFqkqY_WhJBtCEKpq02B-zZdtMhjD_0rd1Iqlhys5NLJsyn2G90BfigXEl=w1075-h774-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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A couple planted about 250 yuzu seeds in France in a field.
They selected the more cold résistant years after years.
A few are now famous : n° 1, 3 and 30...
Hi, Zagara!
At first I wanted to object, to say that Sebastian "Alias" did it. But then I watched the video and realized that it was about Sebastian and Bernard. Thanks for the video, it's very interesting.
You're welcome, happy to share
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Hi peep, hi all
Peep, I think that what you are doing with your citrus collection (gathering infos, images and now scanning leaves) is really great. It will surely be very helpfull.
About yuzu n°30 here is what I've heard:
A couple planted about 250 yuzu seeds in France in a field.
They selected the more cold résistant years after years.
A few are now famous : n° 1, 3 and 30...
It is explained in a youtube video (in french) called "ils cultivent des agrumes résistants au froid "
In the same vidéo they also said that yuzu n30, is called "yuzu"30 because it is from a yuzu seed but that is actually not a "real" yuzu taste. It is more like a mandarin and yuzu mix. They still say it is a very good fruit.
Hope that helps! Cheeers
I add the link of the video (if it worked)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmvSheROGS4
explenation on yuzu n°30 around 19'30seconds.
Actually this video is rather misleading, N30 has nothing to do with Yuzu clonal selection by Sebastian (alias) and Bernard,
Alias presented this hybrid on AgrumesPassion forum some time ago:
https://www.agrumes-passion.com/viewtopic.php?t=5027&sid=0bc24ca43b1fb9d69352b3f0b6d9e2f0 (https://www.agrumes-passion.com/viewtopic.php?t=5027&sid=0bc24ca43b1fb9d69352b3f0b6d9e2f0)
Google translation:
"This new hybrid would be the cross between a juno citrus and a mandarin, obtained in Montenegro (Bar).
Mandarin may be a satsuma (for taste) or a mandarin geleking (for the shape of the fruit).
The skin is lumpy and ribbed orange-coloured. The fruit is about 6 to 7 cm in diameter.
The pulp is orange, acidic and sweet reminiscent of mandarin satsuma a little but with a very pronounced acidity.
This citrus is given as cold-resistant, but to date no tests below -10 degrees Celsius have been carried out. "
Oh ok, good to know , thanks
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Your wind protection greenhouse looks good peep👍
Be carefull that the températures don't go too high if the sun hits it, but i think that you are already aware of that.