Avocado top work video

[spaugh]

Heres a video of top working 2 year old in ground seedling tree.  Sorry it went pretty long but all the relevant info is in there.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=j6plo20ELdY&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE

[Avofan]

I saw it - it was good 👍

[SD Dan]

Great video, thanks for sharing Brad! I didn’t think it was too long I enjoy these sort of instructional videos to be a bit longer to see the full process

[spaugh]

I took some pictures of various graft ideas also.

[Seanny]

Looks good.
Are you getting good takes at this time?

[spaugh]

Yeah I have been moving the dates earlier eqch year to avoid heatwaves in february and march.  Doing it now gets the scion healed enough and already pushing a bit before heat kicks in.  If heat comes and the scion hasnt already pushed enough, I have to bag them and its a huge pain.

If you live somewhere not as hot, your results may vary...

[Nuraxi]

Great video, good job, thanks for sharing Brad!.

[simon_grow]

Man, you’re a pro now! I love seeing others use multiple grafting techniques instead of just the cleft or whip and tongue. Your orchard looks so much better every time I visit. Keep up the great work!

Simon

[spaugh]

Thanks Simon, you tought me a lot of this stuff. 

[spaugh]

Almost every graft done in December took despite the long cold winter.  Earlier the better actually. The ones done in early December look the best and are pushing nicely now.  I'll be doing them right in early December always from now on. The one from the video that was done December 24th is the first photo.  There were several varieties I chipped down and top worked with sharwil.  Mex grande, mex, lamb, sir prize, OTA, and some seedlings all top worked with sharwil.  Once you try sharwil most of the other avocados are obsolete if they ripen at the same time IMO.  Nothing beats them.

[SD Dan]

Nice, Brad! I was wondering how your grafts did with the cold winter we had.

I put some 1 year old seedlings in the ground, planning to graft them up in the coming year so this is helpful info

[spaugh]

Hi Dan, if your trees are not big enough after one year, wait and let themnget larger for 2 years.  I think the best size is the size of the tree in the video.  If you do them smaller, the tree will waste energy on flowering forma few years when it could have used the extra year for a larger root system first.

Theres no benefit to top working tiny trees. 

[SD Dan]

Will do, one of them is a bit older and decent size already but I'll try to be patient if they aren't ready. Appreciate the advice

[passionate4nature]

Heres a video of top working 2 year old in ground seedling tree.  Sorry it went pretty long but all the relevant info is in there.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=j6plo20ELdY&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE

Brad thank you so much for the avocado info!
Can you do a YT video on how to do a multi-graft avocado (multiple varieties on one tree). There are a few others on YT but they are confusing about how they achieve the franken-multi-graft trees and the tips to make the grafts take with dominance of the tree.

7-11 Multii-Graft

User barath did one at a Berkeley 7-11 but he has not posted or been on in over a year. Epicenter's Monterey Rare Fruit YT Video mentioned barath and getting more info on a multi-graft 7-11 avocado but there was no more info given.

On this tree, I just cut back a branch and grafted onto it.
If I have actively growing branches, I find it best to pinch off the branch tips near by. That way the tree gets hormone signals from buds on the bud stick. Donno how scientific it is, but works for me!

Thoughts on these YT videos to Multi Graft Avocados:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGw4hXQzfLQ%20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbh_5QmBgA

[spaugh]

I don't do multigraft trees because one type will usually dominate the others.  And I have enough space, there's no reason to.

Sorry it's not very helpful.  I would think it is best to chop the whole thing way back and start fresh and low with the 2 or 3 types you want.  Don't hang scions way up or out on a tree or they will never amount to anything.

[drymifolia]

I have a few multi-graft avocado trees in-ground in my greenhouse, with the oldest grafts being ~3 years old. Brad is right that particular ones tend to try to dominate, but I've found that pruning the most vigorous grafts more aggressively is enough to keep them in balance pretty well. Other times a particular graft grows much slower than the rest, and I've mostly just removed those and regrafted them on other rootstocks. I think any more than 3 or 4 cultivars per tree would be very challenging to keep balanced enough that they all do ok.

And to Brad's other point, I've definitely had best luck grafting on branches near where they emerge from the main trunk, not out on the ends of branches. It'll be easier to keep the varieties balanced if you graft them all at once, but I've also had good luck using an overly vigorous graft as a framework for adding more varieties the next year.

I do not see apical dominance, rather it seems the grafts that are closest to the roots but also get good sun grow fastest. But also Duke grows most vigorous no matter where it is grafted.

[passionate4nature]

I have a few multi-graft avocado trees in-ground in my greenhouse, with the oldest grafts being ~3 years old. Brad is right that particular ones tend to try to dominate, but I've found that pruning the most vigorous grafts more aggressively is enough to keep them in balance pretty well. Other times a particular graft grows much slower than the rest, and I've mostly just removed those and regrafted them on other rootstocks. I think any more than 3 or 4 cultivars per tree would be very challenging to keep balanced enough that they all do ok.

And to Brad's other point, I've definitely had best luck grafting on branches near where they emerge from the main trunk, not out on the ends of branches. It'll be easier to keep the varieties balanced if you graft them all at once, but I've also had good luck using an overly vigorous graft as a framework for adding more varieties the next year.

I do not see apical dominance, rather it seems the grafts that are closest to the roots but also get good sun grow fastest. But also Duke grows most vigorous no matter where it is grafted.

This is helpful thanks, ... I am a visual learner. I am cautious to top work after doing it to a 4 year old Haas on Zutano root stock that never suckered or came back after I stumped to 1'.

What varieties did you put together for your multi-trees? Any photos of them you can share, trying to learn ;-)

I think most people are making multi trees to have things they don't want a full tree of that are unusual or they have tights space in their yards and want several types of Avocados. 

So basically low on the tree, main branches you cut back closer to the trunk depending on sun and the leaf canopy.

Did he do it right: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lIzxAzjt588

I have a Mexicola Grande and Zutano I want to graft.

Which varieties would grow vigorous regardless where you grafted them (Ie. Duke, Reed, ____)?

Which ones grow slow in your opinion (Ie.Gem/Gwen/Wurtz, _____)?

[passionate4nature]

I don't do multigraft trees because one type will usually dominate the others.  And I have enough space, there's no reason to.

Sorry it's not very helpful.  I would think it is best to chop the whole thing way back and start fresh and low with the 2 or 3 types you want.  Don't hang scions way up or out on a tree or they will never amount to anything.

Thanks!
How old does a tree need to be to top work, how well established (can a 15 Gallon tree be top worked that is planted recently), any other considerations to consider?

What would make a tree not come back, no suckers after a 1' stump that's 4 years old.  Perhaps mine are not as vigorous as you here in the Colder SF East Bay as my trunk girth does not look as big as the ones you top graft in the video.

I messaged you about getting's some scions, ... it said it went through, I can try again if you did not get it.

Look how many grafts this girl does haha: https://youtu.be/VBXYnZAvo98?feature=shared&t=698

[drymifolia]

I am cautious to top work after doing it to a 4 year old Haas on Zutano root stock that never suckered or came back after I stumped to 1'.

What time of year was that? Is it on drip irrigation? The only times I've seen an avocado not regrow from stumping is if it's dormant or underwatered.

What varieties did you put together for your multi-trees? Any photos of them you can share, trying to learn ;-)

I went digging around in my thread on the other fruit forum, here's a photo from there of one of the first multi-graft trees I did, back in May 2021 shortly after it went in the ground in my greenhouse:


At this point it's a jumbled mess of a jungle in the greenhouse and hard to photograph, but that Duke graft near the base has become the "main trunk" and is a little under half the total biomass of this tree. Here's a photo of the trunk now from a similar angle:

Did he do it right: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lIzxAzjt588

I'm not much of a video watcher, I prefer written articles or posts with a few photos where needed, I'll try to give that a watch later and let you know what I think.

I have a Mexicola Grande and Zutano I want to graft.

Which varieties would grow vigorous regardless where you grafted them (Ie. Duke, Reed, ____)?

Which ones grow slow in your opinion (Ie.Gem/Gwen/Wurtz, _____)?

My experience is limited to some of the more obscure cultivars in the Mexican botanical group, since my purpose in having multi-grafts is to have trees that produce a wide range of potentially cold-hardy seeds for the decentralized breeding project I'm organizing here in the PNW. At this point in the 300ish square ft greenhouse I've got grafts of all of these that are a potentially fruiting size for next year, along with a few newer grafts of other cultivars:
Aravaipa
Duke
Jade
Joey
Linh
Long South Gate
Teague
Walter Hole

Out of those, Duke is far and away the most vigorous on both of the trees where it's grafted. Aravaipa is pretty vigorous, and Jade too. Walter Hole is one that is slower and struggles to keep up with Jade on a 2-variety tree.

[spaugh]

I don't do multigraft trees because one type will usually dominate the others.  And I have enough space, there's no reason to.

Sorry it's not very helpful.  I would think it is best to chop the whole thing way back and start fresh and low with the 2 or 3 types you want.  Don't hang scions way up or out on a tree or they will never amount to anything.

Thanks!
How old does a tree need to be to top work, how well established (can a 15 Gallon tree be top worked that is planted recently), any other considerations to consider?

What would make a tree not come back, no suckers after a 1' stump that's 4 years old.  Perhaps mine are not as vigorous as you here in the Colder SF East Bay as my trunk girth does not look as big as the ones you top graft in the video.

I messaged you about getting's some scions, ... it said it went through, I can try again if you did not get it.

Look how many grafts this girl does haha: https://youtu.be/VBXYnZAvo98?feature=shared&t=698

I dont see a message, send another one.

I laughed at the video of all those grafts.  Honestly just pick one or 2 per tree otherwise you will be disappointed in the outcome.  For bay area just pick the one or 2 that do well there.  I think Carmen would be a good choice. 

[spaugh]

I went and looked at the trees today.  All of the pencil sized grafts are now the same size as the branches they were grafted to 9 months ago. Finally removed the tape on all the trees today also.  I had already loosened the taped once or twice already.  Ended up grafting sharwil onto every tree i did a variety change on and most of the seedlings.  Its my favorite.

[edzone9]

Thanks for the video!
The only times to graft in south FL is only November through February.?

Thanks Ed

[passionate4nature]

I am cautious to top work after doing it to a 4 year old Haas on Zutano root stock that never suckered or came back after I stumped to 1'.

What time of year was that? Is it on drip irrigation? The only times I've seen an avocado not regrow from stumping is if it's dormant or underwatered.

What varieties did you put together for your multi-trees? Any photos of them you can share, trying to learn ;-)

I went digging around in my thread on the other fruit forum, here's a photo from there of one of the first multi-graft trees I did, back in May 2021 shortly after it went in the ground in my greenhouse:


At this point it's a jumbled mess of a jungle in the greenhouse and hard to photograph, but that Duke graft near the base has become the "main trunk" and is a little under half the total biomass of this tree. Here's a photo of the trunk now from a similar angle:

Did he do it right: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lIzxAzjt588

I'm not much of a video watcher, I prefer written articles or posts with a few photos where needed, I'll try to give that a watch later and let you know what I think.

I have a Mexicola Grande and Zutano I want to graft.

Which varieties would grow vigorous regardless where you grafted them (Ie. Duke, Reed, ____)?

Which ones grow slow in your opinion (Ie.Gem/Gwen/Wurtz, _____)?

My experience is limited to some of the more obscure cultivars in the Mexican botanical group, since my purpose in having multi-grafts is to have trees that produce a wide range of potentially cold-hardy seeds for the decentralized breeding project I'm organizing here in the PNW. At this point in the 300ish square ft greenhouse I've got grafts of all of these that are a potentially fruiting size for next year, along with a few newer grafts of other cultivars:
Aravaipa
Duke
Jade
Joey
Linh
Long South Gate
Teague
Walter Hole

Out of those, Duke is far and away the most vigorous on both of the trees where it's grafted. Aravaipa is pretty vigorous, and Jade too. Walter Hole is one that is slower and struggles to keep up with Jade on a 2-variety tree.

This is Amazing Thanks, def will read and study a few times! 

I believe this is what he is doing (pics below) so you don't have to watch the video. Any thoughts on skill technique help me as I am learning watching these people. Someone said they watch his for his cowboy style of grafting, even though it's not the best. Does that mean he just gets it done without more advanced considerations.
Modified Cleft. Utility Knife.  Buddy Tape. Picks main branches and strips leaves. Many Varieties on One Tree. Two at top of trunk, 3 around (top), 3 at bottom

[passionate4nature]

I don't do multigraft trees because one type will usually dominate the others.  And I have enough space, there's no reason to.

Sorry it's not very helpful.  I would think it is best to chop the whole thing way back and start fresh and low with the 2 or 3 types you want.  Don't hang scions way up or out on a tree or they will never amount to anything.

Thanks!
How old does a tree need to be to top work, how well established (can a 15 Gallon tree be top worked that is planted recently), any other considerations to consider?



What would make a tree not come back, no suckers after a 1' stump that's 4 years old.  Perhaps mine are not as vigorous as you here in the Colder SF East Bay as my trunk girth does not look as big as the ones you top graft in the video.

I messaged you about getting's some scions, ... it said it went through, I can try again if you did not get it.

Look how many grafts this girl does haha: https://youtu.be/VBXYnZAvo98?feature=shared&t=698

I dont see a message, send another one.

I laughed at the video of all those grafts.  Honestly just pick one or 2 per tree otherwise you will be disappointed in the outcome.  For bay area just pick the one or 2 that do well there.  I think Carmen would be a good choice.

Sent you another message thanks..

[passionate4nature]

I went and looked at the trees today.  All of the pencil sized grafts are now the same size as the branches they were grafted to 9 months ago. Finally removed the tape on all the trees today also.  I had already loosened the taped once or twice already.  Ended up grafting sharwil onto every tree i did a variety change on and most of the seedlings.  Its my favorite.

Sharwil does not do well in the Bay Area Right???... because of our fog and colder temps. Only gets to about 30 in the Winter here Zone 10, but we have foggy mornings and don't get the early Spring you do in January to March,... Spring was June this year, Summer comes in August to October for heat.