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Messages - Plantinyum

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Macadamia question
« on: Today at 01:11:17 PM »
I would be interested to see pictures of the trees, if anyone has the time to share. Thanks!

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Macadamia question
« on: Today at 01:08:16 PM »
Bad news, the greenhose is 340 cm tall at the tallest point, i maid it higher with about 80 cm, a few days ago. Anyway, my best bet with the tree is to plant it in there anyways, i suppose they do not do good in pots so, will plant it on the north side of the greenhouse, where it will make the least shade to surrounding plants. My plan is to make the trees in there grow at different levels, so that the cannopies have more space, with pruning of course. 
I knew i was in trouble when i saw how big the tree was , from the get go....






3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Macadamia question
« on: Today at 10:16:02 AM »
I just got this macadamia, the plant is exceeding 2 meters in heigh, not grafted i suppose, did not see any graft scars. The leaves are quite prickly, at the base of the stem i found a falf buried shel, suppose its from the seed that the plant was grown from, as it has the right shape.
So now that i know that the plant is a seedling, will i be able to get it to fruit on its own? I will plant it in my greenhouse , inground, heated in winter. My main concern is if it would be able to bear without a companion?










4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Grafting Grumichama onto surinam cherry
« on: March 27, 2024, 02:18:13 AM »
I am getting a grumichama plant i a month or so, can i graft from it, onto my surinam cherry? I wont top work the surinam, but rather want to add the grumichama, since i dont have a place in the greenhouse, where i could plant it.
Could they be grafted to each other?

5
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Fertilizing blueberries
« on: March 27, 2024, 01:59:32 AM »
As for acidification i once applied peleted silfur, 3 to four years down the row and the pellets look still as new, havend degraded one bit , they are burried, the ones on the surface are the same. Ive thought to hammer the pellets , until they get a flour consistancy, and apply that.
I must say that all of my blueberries do not usually show any sighns that the soil may be too alkaline. The container ones are planted in a clayey soil, with forest soil added to it, along perlite, not ideal if you ask me, but they are doing very good, ladt year they had a heavy crop, this year will be a lighter one.
I have one bush also planted in a clayey soil, inground, also doing wonderfull, dark green leaves at all times trough summer.
I havent used any acidification on all of them, also do not fertilize that often, which is an irony in relation to the topics name😂, i just cannot get to fertilize regularly.....

6
I think this is the species of aphid, that is wrecking havoc in my greenhouse right now. I am looking into using a bio grade product called Naturalis, which contains a strain of a flesh eating fungus called Beauveria Bassiana. On the product, it does not mention whether it could be used and is effective on whooly aphids, i wonder if i should use this , or go whith a unnorganic pesticide instead?
They do not even blink when i use neem oil, i feel like i am applying sun tan on them. I have quails in the greenhouse, because of which i not to use strong chemicals, but i do use them as a last resort.
Has someone used the above mentioned product, on wholly aphids? I would like to hear your experience with it, as i am a bit worried on introducing this fungus into the greenhouse system.
As a side question, how do you control whooly aphids? 


7
Thsnks ! ;)

8
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: container black sapote seedling is flowing
« on: February 05, 2024, 05:50:02 AM »
I have one seedling, about a meter in heigh, the species is easy to care for and the plant does wonderfull as of now. I hope it can also fruit on its own, when mature enough.

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Can anyone recognize this plinia species?
« on: February 05, 2024, 05:40:56 AM »
Wonder what kind of plinia this is, its easy to tell it is not the regular sabata tipe jaboticaba, what could it be?


10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Papaya air layering
« on: February 02, 2024, 02:16:10 PM »
I already did them the air layer way, cuttings seems too risky for me, wouldn't want to risk the big tops of those plants.  Being herbaceous plants, they should root probably until spring, hopefully in May at the latest, then i can cut it off and lower a bit more the remaining part. They should sprout from the bases, the cut i made is less then halway tru the trunk so the remaining part should be sufficient to nourish both roots and top part. I hope the air layered parts stay more compact and taimed in their growth.





11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Papaya air layering
« on: February 01, 2024, 10:13:30 AM »
Thanks! I did them ,exactly as the videos show, from what i sal in them, roots form first at the part that has been cut, the plant will probably make roots on the other side, but after separation. What they dont show in the videos, is that most of the leaves should be removed, after you cut it out, which is my general practice with every air layer.
I will report a success or a failure in a few months.

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Papaya air layering
« on: January 23, 2024, 11:05:18 AM »
Hello, as my mountain papaya plants have outgrown their place highwise, in the greenhouse, i want to air layer them so i lower the heigh and hopefully get a new plant for pot culture, which should be a more campact of a grower. I found several videos on youtube , of how people get papaya plants to root at various heights on the stem, so i will do this method .
Have all the materials and will set them airlayers today.
Has someone here on the forum tried this technique?
Here is a link to one of the videos.
https://youtu.be/xzluU6GM390?si=IiWU8RqbC_FZRnoY

13
I transplanted mine into pots as they were vary shaded in the ground in my gh. Placed them in full sun outside and they absolutely took off. They were kinda when so didnt have much root to them, but i am sure the species is quite resilient. Try to take them with as much durt and roots as possible, that way the shock will be minimal.

14
I went with zebdid and kensington, as thats what was available, after consulting with the nurseries ithat offered them. Zebdid is inground in the gh and is doing well, the kensington which i am sure is not the said variety, but rather a seedling, is also doing good in a small pot. They are wating for spring to start rolling i quess. I will take more plants and other varieties come spring, also some other exotics i have been eager to try for a lot of time.

15
Some cherimoya are biannual meaning every odd years it will produce massive flowers.  If you are feeding with a bloom fertilizer and your wood is 1 year old or greater, it will produce an abundance of flowers.  My trees is a heavy producer every odd year.

Thanks! Ive read that they can be alternate bearing patterns with cherimoya, i see it as a reason for one of the plants, the one that had 50 fruit last year, really had a bumper first crop.
The other one though,  it had 2 fruits last year, this year set only 3 from an odd flowering that was in late winter ,as far as i remember. The main bloom ,which i tried to trigger was very weak and scattered, coudnt pare the flowers and didnt had fresh pollen most of the time. The plant did manage to set a few fruit, but there was a day with with very hot temps in the greenhouse and it aborted all but 2 of them.
Interesting enough,  i found the reason why i get black necrotic spots on the leaves from time to time, it was from the heat, the day after it i saw alot of fried looking spots on the leaves, which turned bark brown and didnt grew in size. They dont like temperatures above 30C .

I will feed them in advance with a bloom fertilizer, before i try to trigger a bloom , i have fed them a few times with such ferts this year, but didnt see a difference, they were with their leaves on ,so this should be preventing the buds from waking up, as usually.

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 15, 2023, 03:03:12 AM »
Sorry for the late reply, here they are!
The soil looks very moist, becouse they are freshly watered.
You can see the soursops also, doing well i think.
Checked them for spider mites, did not see any with the magnifier.











17
Nice looking plant, congrats!

18
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 11, 2023, 05:07:15 AM »
I have several very sad looking seedlings, that look like they might die any moment now. They are around a year old and are just about 5 -10 cm high. Leaves are light yelowwish green, they do not grow at all anymore, planted in well drained turf.
Can someone give me a hint as to what to do to make them grow? They were in the greenhouse all summer, in dapled shade, now they are inside the house ,on a south facing window.  I have 2 soursops that i started along with the uvaria's, and those although still not doing wonderfull, are growing much better that the uvaria, if that is of any value showing what the conditionds are like.

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hand Pollination - passiflora decaisneana
« on: November 11, 2023, 02:00:26 AM »
Is the rind thick and edible on this species? My plant had just a few flowers, nothing set, i failed to grow caerulea and alata to flower,  to cross pollinate. Alot of flower buds aborted, plant is growing as normal.

20
The full tree leaf strip should come right before the tree wakes up from winter.  Around February or March here. 

But you can continue to do it through summer to get more flowers.  But this time dont strip the whole tree.  Just strip back some leaves towards the inside of the tree on big branches where a good fruit will form.

Ive never done a full leaf strip to them, i tend to remove some of the big leaves on the strong outerfacing branches, and leave the weak interior ones have their leaves on, so the plant doesnt get as shocked. I dont know if thats the right thing to do, i may do a more severe leaf strip next year.

I dont know if the biological spring for the plant is in line with our actual spring, since they are mostly consistently growing. One of them now is making a few flower buds and trying to push growth from the bases of apical leaves, without them being removed, the other tree is also growing but not as strong right now.
They do tend to get a discoloration on the leaves towards spring, but ive never had them shed their leaves alone, ive awlays had to interfere and force it, they are evergreen for me .

21
This article was in my files and it might interest you.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/286771478_Development_of_a_New_Technique_to_Produce_Winter_Cherimoyas&ved=2ahUKEwjvlrDYprqCAxWEaDABHenZAnQQFnoECAsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2t4hHk0yjA31JgX-6nB8fR

Downloaded and saved! Thank you! Judjing by the pruning done here and on other places ive seen, i am not pruning enough. I will have to do a major prune next year, the canopies are getting too bushy, i just havent had the heart to prune mine like that, seems quite severe but being greenhouse grown in a limited space, will have to do it.

22
Does someone else do leaf strip to cherimoya, and at which time of the season do you do it? I did once a strip in june, thats our spring here , had a strong bloom after that.

23
My cherimoya never sees below 53F (12C) or so and flowers like crazy
More good news! I was thinking that they need more cold to triger blooming, since thats what some articles claim.
The low percent of blooms must have been a result of the vety late leaf strip, i remember we had the strongest heat waves in this period also, so this may also have coused it.

24
Here in the Azores i rarely have hours below 10c and I get very good flowering on the cherimoyas.

Thank you for the feedback! The weak flowering may be due to the time i tried to promote it, i felt it was a bit late at the time. I will do the procedure around may or june next year! Will try to keep the greenhouse a bit cooler for a bit more, but not as cool as i anticipated. 

25
I usually do not repot any plant, guava also, until the whole root ball is filled nicely with roots. Plants when repoted, first send strong roots that try to go as deep as they can, leading to roots showing tru the drainage holes shortly after repotting. That doesnt mean that the whole soil area has been occupied,  and doesnt mean there is a need for a repot. I always take out of the pot and inspect how tight the roots have grown, if they are pretty netted i repot. Another clue that there is a need for a repot should be the soil drying too fast. The soil check obviously can be harder to do ,if your pot i very big awready.

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