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Messages - Plantinyum

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Thanks, i will do what you said, i hope they work good with the vents open, as i dont really want to close them, but will see.

How much does such a greenhouse help?Is it like 8b or even 9b?

Unfortunately, if you aren't heating it at all then it provides very little protection against overnight low temperatures, but the best way to know for sure is to install temperature sensors inside and outside, and compare them just before dawn.

You will likely find that by the end of the night, the greenhouse is (at best) one or two degrees warmer than the outside temperature.

During the day, it can be dozens of degrees warmer, but once the sun is gone, the extra trapped heat will generally all escape within a few hours.

As an example, here's the ∆C chart (i.e., how much warmer it is compared to the outside) for my greenhouse today since midnight (currently just after 2pm in my time zone). Overnight it was about 2C warmer, and has about 150 watts of seedling heating pads and about 100 watts of LED grow lights currently turned on. It would be about half that otherwise.

The 8am anomaly is due to the morning sun hitting the outdoor sensor on the outside north wall of the greenhouse and creating a false reading a few degrees warmer than the air temperature. The sudden drop before 11am was the exhaust fan turning on, and that's still running now. Without that, it would probably be 25+ degrees warmer inside (and my plants would be cooked).

Wright after i build mine, i monitored the temperature differences between inside and outside, trough the first winter, before i planted my tropicals. The result was that i had a stable 4 degree C positive difference on the inside. Sometimes it was les, sometimes it was more, but 90% of the time the difference was 4 degrees. Thats without heating, and now after it is heated, the gh equals to zone 10- 11, and i am in zone 7.
For a passive greenhouse, the place and how it is build is also important, mine had such a high temp difference, becouse it is on the south side of a building, also i have solid concreete surounding base.

Hi everybody,

my friends have a huge greenhose (about 20 000 sq feet) every hobby gardeners dream. Single glass, on an open field near Heidelberg/Germany (teaditionally USDA zone 7b, now 8a. They like exotic fruits and with a little help from me they are starting a non herdy fruit collection. We already have Musa vasjoo, sikkimensis, Musella lasiocarpa, Ensete maurelii, Yuzu, Ichang Papeda, some surviving citrus rootstocks and seedlings, pomegrenades...Wondering if strawberry guava, mountain papaya or hardy tamarillo will grow there

My questions:1:  What else can we grow there? Im especially interested in the super rare and tasty fruits
2: How much does such a greenhouse help?Is it like 8b or even 9b?
3: Any specific care tips for those plants in such a place
i suggest you to monitor the environment for a winter, just to know what your lowest temperatures are, meanwhile you can plant the more hardy stuff. Mountain papaya is supposedly hardier than regular papaya, i have 3 that are doing wonderful and also setting fruit atm. But i also have 5 regular ones, both are grown in the same greenhouse, i cannot tell you how much hardier mauntain papaya are, as i keep the gh very warm trough winter as i have tender stuff, like the regular papaya.

I said you don't want both an exhaust fan plus an inlet fan.

But it's hard to design a system when all the parameters aren't known. Open roof vents don't work well with an exhaust fan. Why, because the fan will suck air in thru the roof vent and out the exhaust fan. That defeats the purpose of the roof vent. You can't efficiently combine passive ventilation, roof vents, with active ventilation, an exhaust fan. Either go one or the other.

Pointing fans at your roof vents isn't a good setup. I can't see how that will help. The roof vent works because hot air rises and exits the roof vent assuming there is cool air intake down low. Pointing a fan at the vent mixes the air reducing the effectiveness of the vent.

Thank you! So i should get 2 exausts and mound them on the opposite sides of the gh, at their peak? Just looking for something to aid the vents' that i already have, even if it helps just a little, its still good.  Here are some shots i took of the setup. The oringe circles are where i intend to place the vents
The doors are removed, so there is plenty of fresh air going in.

 Fruitnut, i had the idea of placing the fans with the air stream pointing towards the greenhouse roof vents, which are open at all times, this time of year. Wouldnt it be sufficient this way? So you say that i have to have one fan blowing air out, and one on the opposite side, to pump air in? Kind of like the fans in long tunnels, pointing in the same direction?

I will get 2 different tipes, not from the highest class though, something in the middle price range. So i will also get exaust ones then, and mount them the way i need.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: It's so hot 🔥
« on: June 09, 2024, 09:22:55 AM »
We currently have 30C at shade, at sun it feels at least 35. It isnt even the start of the first heat wave, which is comming next week, expecting up to 43C at places in the country. No rain in about 2 weeks, soil in forests is perched, very dry. I water every day, whatever needs wattering. Greenhouse papayas are water hogs right now. Have alot of potted willows, you know what that means. 🥲🥲

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya pollination
« on: June 09, 2024, 02:26:40 AM »
After the pollen is ready the flower sheds it very fast, in a few hours its gone. The anthers usually continue to stay up untill the wilt of the petals, then they fall off together. Thats my experience.

I want to get 2 fans for the gh, aiming for a sollar powered solution, also for a fan that will move the air inside, than rather taking air out. As far as i understand, exaust fans take air out, and ventilation ones take air in, right? So as most of the products i find are labeled as exaust's, could i get one and turn it on its other side, so that it blows in, or should i rather  get a ventillation fan? I know sollars will be weaker , compared to electric devices, but i am willing to try them out' as i dont want to mess with cables and stuff. Also bein sollar, they will pretty much run only when needed.  Anyone can  reccomend a brand or a particular model, i am finding alot of exaust tipe ones, its hard to choose. Thanks!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dolomite reviels
« on: June 09, 2024, 01:38:12 AM »
Thanks, i may have to hold back on use then. I do not know what my soil ph is tho.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Dolomite reviels
« on: June 06, 2024, 02:25:35 PM »
I got this, with the intention of using it on my tropicals, inground. Read it elevates the soil's ph, should i use just a little bit every now and then?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Cherimoya flower bud abortion
« on: June 04, 2024, 03:03:52 AM »
I have 2 cherimoya trees, greenhouse culture. For a start, this year both of them produced exceptionally low amout on flower buds, following the yearly prune and leaf strip at the end of april. Now, as the temperatures have gotten to their summer readings, the greenhouse scores around 30C, at near ground level, those are not everiday readings, but the highest ones. The upper temperature should be higher, probably maximum around 35 C. Ive read that high temperatures lead to pollen sterility, low pollen germonation, and fruit set. The few buds that the trees had, are starting to abort , and i believe it may be due to the high temperatures, as last year i had several fruit on one of the plants, around wallnut size, which few of 2 days after when the greenhouse got up to 40C, which was an major accident. 
The gh is vented all day long, cloused at night, will be removing the policarbonate from the doors today, as night temperatures have increased drastically.
On a side note, this is the second year , in which the trees produce very little flower buds, since ive installed the heating in the gh. I feew like its too warm for them at all times now, as i had a marvelous fruit crop the second summer after planting, the heating of the gh that first winter was much worse, and i think the cold back then triggered the strong bloom on both of them.

You should be okay then.  When the weather gets above 60f at night is when they grow the most.
Nice, a friend will send me 3 different cereus species, will trial those in there also.

I also found and ordered this one, Stenocereus Pruinosus , this one is supposed to have a nice tasting fruit, anyone growing those?

Yes, I have a small Pruinosus about that size.  They grow away somewhat slowly, need direct sun as much as you can give.  Does not like cold wet weather, if you live in an area that gets below freezing you will need to overwinter it.

My plan is to plant it inground in my greenhouse, it is heated enough trough winter, that i am able to grow papaya in there, it should also do well. Only downside is, it wont be very bright or sunny, at least until the cacti reaches around 150 sm.

Could it be a etiolated version of the globous/sphere tipe cacti?

Here are 2 update pictures, of what the original plant from the post looks like right now. Can it be more easily identified now? Sure looks like something else with the new growth on top.

I also found and ordered this one, Stenocereus Pruinosus , this one is supposed to have a nice tasting fruit, anyone growing those?

I also thought that it has a bit too many ribs, compared to pictures of the apple cactus i find online.

As another hint, she says the plant blooms with flowers, which are a mix of white and pink.

Thanks, it is not my plant but have been pondering of bying it, as it is for sale and quite cheap. I will contact the seller and order it right away, will have to ask for current pics of the plant first, as it does look like it has seen better days .

I also have quite a few stems on my df , on which the fleshy part is abscent, including the main stem of one of my plants, they do not show any sighns of distress and are growing  as normal, with only the woody vein in the center remaining.

At first i thought it was to be a peruvian apple, but the pictures online do not match the plant in question. Can someone identify if for me , thanks a lot !

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Paths in greenhouses
« on: May 10, 2024, 04:11:18 PM »
I like it, would love such a spacefull gh.

When we get a bad winter freeze, every inch of the ground is filled with potted things that otherwise mostly spend the winter outdoors (avocados). So it can get pretty crowded! It's also not very big... the entire greenhouse is under 30 square meters (320 sq ft).

The avocado branches definitely want to smack me when I walk between them! The roof is around 4m tall at the center (13 ft), but less than 3m at the sides.
nice, mine is 12 square m, individual plants inside have less than one square meter of space, so naturally they grow into each other, but i do prune from time to time. I made mine slightly higher a month ago, now its about 4 m tall, as i dont have space sideways, the only way was up.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Paths in greenhouses
« on: May 10, 2024, 02:57:55 PM »
I put down crushed stone gravel and intentionally compacted it along the paths in my greenhouse (using a tamper), and over the last few years that has slowly been covered in soil and is a nice firm "dirt" path that wheels don't sink into but water soaks through OK. Here's what it looks like:

I don't worry about the roots, but I do pile mulch directly around the trees. Either they'll treat the path as a root barrier or they'll go under/through it, but they should have plenty of root volume either way.

I like it, would love such a spacefull gh.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Paths in greenhouses
« on: May 10, 2024, 02:55:38 PM »
I decided to remove the tiles then, will have to put a thicker mulch layer, as to not step in dirt all the time. I am sure the quail will appreciate the lack of the bariers, which are holding the soil now, they are an obsticle for them right now. I will try to step on a narrow path after that. I do believe that soil compaction has a somewhat negative effect, however i have dug un places where there was a heavy foot traffic before, usually the compaction goes  about 10 to 20 cm down.

Wait you can walk down your greenhouse uninhibited?!

Mine is always jam packed and a severe tripping hazard during winter.  ;D
well , now i can haha, but my greenhouse is very small so i can reach everithing,  while standing on the paths. I get really annoied when plants touch me when im in there, a slap in the face by a branch , usually leads to me cutting it off haha. I try to let them grow and occupy as much space as possible, thats the curse of the tight greenhouse.

Is there really loose excess soil around the trees? My expectation is that the roots would grow up and occupy that soil. If there is loose soil, why not just remove it and see where that leaves you?

In my GH the soil is walked on all the time. Roots grow right up to the surface underneath the weed barrier. In really heavy clay, compaction might be an issue. Otherwise probably not.
yes, the soil is loose, for some reason most of the plants do not grow their roots in the top cm of soil, probably because i constantly dig and disturb the first few inches of soil, while checking for moisture levels , when wattering. But i do feew like i could lower the soil layer a bit, because some of the plants are clearly planted way too deep. I dont have to remove the soil, i dont want to since it is a nice humus layer, hrow all the mulch in the last 3 years. It would be a waste to remove it. I guesstimate that if tiles are removed and i spread the excess few inches of soil, the floor would be leveled nicely. 

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Paths in greenhouses
« on: May 10, 2024, 09:37:47 AM »
Sure !

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Paths in greenhouses
« on: May 10, 2024, 09:08:16 AM »
I am thinking of removing the concreet tile path in the greenhouse, the slightly raised beds in which the plants are planted have started spilling the dirt out of them, and onto the tiles, i have quail which do do this. Due to the constant topping with mulch from the plants, the soil has risen quite a bit up, from the root flares of most of the plants, i originally planted them a bit deeper that needed, which is a problem. I have cut up buckets, which are placed around the bases of them, so soil does not touch the trunks.
If i remove the tiles, the place that gets freed will easily accomodate the excess dirt. I think that the plants would benefit  with the thinner soil layer on top of their roots, right now some of them are planted like 20 sm below grade.
I could then place back the tiles, but do i need to? I mean, if no tiles, will the soil get too compact from me walking on it? I awlays try not to step outside of the tiles, as to not compact the soil. Another problem i have with them is that ive found a few dry dirt pockets underneath the tiles, as i dont water there. My thoughts are that without tiles, the soil will get compacted, but i dont know if it will be enough to cause problems.
Any thoughts?

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