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Topics - David Kipps

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Cold Hardy Citrus / Pinching tender tips against winter kill ?
« on: September 04, 2025, 08:41:40 PM »
I usually experience a lot of the late growth spurts winter killing on my citrus (even on P.t.), here in north-central Virginia.  I'm am theorizing that if I pinch out the actively growing tips at some time before cold weather, that the remaining tender shoot might harden up to a greater degree than if it were just allowed to keep lengthening.  Does anyone have experience or knowledge whether this would save some of the later growth flushes?  What about timing?

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Citrus General Discussion / Side effects of Acidless gene
« on: July 23, 2025, 08:39:26 AM »
Assuming all other genes are the same, does the presence of the simply inherited acidless gene (like in Siamese Sweet) free up the tree's resources to improve growth or sweetness or other quality traits?  I assume that the production of acid is one of the drains on available energy.

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Citrus General Discussion / Cause of Extra Dwarfing
« on: May 24, 2025, 09:42:27 AM »
Poncirus has been used both for dwarfing and for imparting some hardiness.  I gather that the Flying Dragon variation of Poncirus will do both of these to an additional degree.  Does anyone know if this additional degree of hardiness/dwarfing is directly, and only, related to the presence of the contorted condition?  When a heterozygous strain of Flying Dragon throws a few non-contorted seedlings, will those (when used as rootstocks) impart no more hardiness/dwarfing to the scion than will a regular Poncirus?  Is a homozygous Flying Dragon any more dwarfing than a heterozygous one? 

4
Cold Hardy Citrus / ? bird damage ?
« on: January 15, 2025, 08:19:11 AM »
Has anyone else had this kind of damage during the winter months (zone 7)?  I'm guessing sapsuckers, though I thought it would have needed summer sap flow to be useful to them.  Most of the damage has been a little ways above the graft union, sometimes higher, but never yet on the P.t. rootstock.  I will sometimes observe later additional rows of de-barking lined up perfectly with the earlier rows.  I had one case where the holes were expanded enough that complete girdling took place.  I've tried spray painting over them to discourage further pecking, with limited success.  Wrapping with tape seems to help, but they just go to another tree and do the same.

https://postimg.cc/Y4dXSfv8

How are we supposed to post images to this forum? Can anyone give me directions on doing so?

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Citrus General Discussion / cold-stratification
« on: November 11, 2024, 11:39:32 AM »
Are there any citrus that benefit from cold-stratification for the sake of improved germination?  Do they all have their best germination from planting the seeds right out of the fruit?

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Citrus General Discussion / ? seed production require pollination ?
« on: May 15, 2024, 08:48:16 AM »
If a citrus is capable of parthenocarpy (producing fruit without fertilization), and is also capable of Nucellar embryony (maternal clone embryos), and there was NO pollination, then would there be absolutely no seeds?   Does the nucellar embryony require starting with tissues that were initiated by fertilization?   In other words,  does the presence of a seed guarantee that at least some pollen got to the flower?

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Cold Hardy Citrus / Seed development after picking
« on: November 15, 2023, 06:33:36 PM »
Will seeds within a slightly immature fruit continue to improve viability after the fruit is picked?  I usually hear that citrus fruit do not continue to ripen after picking (But I have heard a few disagreements to this.).  What about seeds?  Due to freezes, my borderline hardy citrus need to be picked before totally ripe (or even fall off).  I am primarily interested in the seeds for producing a next generation.  Will letting these green/halfgreen fruit sit on the counter for a week or two help the seeds to become more viable, or should I just cut them and extract the seeds right away and plant right away?

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Cold Hardy Citrus / Winter damage, Yuma citrange F2
« on: April 17, 2023, 02:24:37 PM »
The previous winter, these trees all survived with gradual leaf loss toward totality by spring.  This past winter went different.  The Christmas cold and wind burnt the edges of the leaves, but did not kill them, leaving many of them to still be alive and green till now.  Even after a couple of weeks passed, it looked like there would be near 100% tree survival, but sometime in March I realized that quite a number were dying.  So I've ended up with some being nearly evergreen and others dead and others in-between.  In the picture, the whiteish dead twigs at the top were late tender growth that was killed as expected at the beginning of winter (which happens anyway, any year, even on P. trifoliata).  The more golden dead twigs (one with orange ribbon) are from the disappointing late winter kill off of trees that had survived the last several winters.

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Being a desert plant, does Erimocitrus require more alkaline soil?  I've had terrible success with it.

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Cold Hardy Citrus / Storing pollen
« on: February 25, 2023, 07:35:21 PM »
Due to different bloom times, I am trying to store citrus pollen, sometimes up to a year before use. Can it be kept viable that long? Dried? Refrigerated? Frozen?  Can drying be done with only room temperature house air? Can you use a lamp to speed it up?  Should non-dehisced anthers be allowed to dehisce before drying, or do you dry them right away?  Do you need to crush them to release all the pollen?  When you use dried/stored pollen, do you just put it on the stigma as is, or do you need to mist or rehydrate in any way?

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