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Messages - Travillion

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1
I've seen much much worse than that. The tree will be able to recover.
They look like they will be fine to me.

Thank you, I'm much relieved to hear that!

2
I was out inspecting my recently planted citrus trees and I was horrified to see that I had accidentally left some training wire in place that I used to stake the trees when they were very young. Their trunks have grown since then and there are some deepish grooves where the training wire was. The trees don't seem to be affected yet, and fortunately they were not completed girdled. Still, how big of an issue will this cause when they get older? I grafted these trees myself from rootstock I grew from seed. I have a backup for both of these trees in pots if needed, but I'd rather not dig these out and plant new ones if I don't have too. OTOH, I don't want these trees dying in 5 years.





3
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cut off sunburned trunk or let it grow?
« on: November 04, 2024, 03:39:22 PM »
I'd leave it as is temporarily. When a vigorous shoot emerges below the damaged area, but above the graft union I'd allow it to gradually overtake the damaged branch. When the replacement is sufficiently mature and lignified, the damaged section can be removed.

Sounds good, thanks!

4
Citrus General Discussion / Cut off sunburned trunk or let it grow?
« on: November 04, 2024, 02:15:33 PM »
I bought this meiwa kumquat a few years ago and kept it in a pot because I didn't have a yard until now. I finally planted it in the ground yesterday. It got severely sunburned when I first bought it. You can see a long strip of scar tissue going up the trunk. It has almost completely grown over now. I know it's not "healed" and that dead tissue will always be in the tree. I'm also assuming it won't grow new buds there so it will always be a bare stretch of trunk. I'm wondering how weak/vulnerable it will be in the future. Should I cut that section of trunk out and let it be a short bush, or keep the burned trunk and allow it to keep growing up?





5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Prune back limbs touching the ground?
« on: November 04, 2024, 02:09:00 PM »
Thanks for the feedback! I trimmed some other limbs that touched the ground, but the ones on these trees gave me pause, I think because they represented a larger portion of the canopy. I'll probably cut them back in the early spring, that way they can keep giving the roots energy as they adjust to being planted in the ground. They are not fruit bearing yet so no issues there.

6
Citrus General Discussion / Prune back limbs touching the ground?
« on: October 31, 2024, 11:33:01 AM »
I recently planted in ground the citrus trees I raised in pots for the last two years. In pots, the natural bushy growth could droop down because the pots lift the plant off the ground. When I planted them in ground, a few had branches that are now draped on the surface of my wood mulch. Do I need to prune these off to reduce pest/disease issues? Or are the branches fine to touch the ground? If they do need to go, is it fine to do that in the spring or do they need to go now?

7
Thank you. Ultimately, I was able to find another source. 30 miles away and more expensive, but still cheaper than reptibark.

8
Citrus General Discussion / Alternatives to pine bark for potting mixes?
« on: January 13, 2024, 03:14:16 PM »
Sorry for posting another potting mix thread....

I'm needing to make a change and am searching for alternatives. I have several trees in modified 5-1-1, but I need to do some up-potting and my source for the pine bark has turned to garbage.
I know I could use reptibark or Bonsai Jack but that becomes cost prohibitive for me in large quantities. I have all my trees on a drip system, so whatever I switch to will need to be comparable to 5-1-1 in terms of drainage so I don't run into issues. I have one tree in the 1:1 Turface MVP:MGGS and that seems to do well, but the resulting mix is HEAVY, and probably wouldn't be suitable to put in the ground later (which I hope to do once I get more property). I could do CHC, but I understand that tends to break down pretty quickly with how much watering I have to do here in Phoenix. So, besides pine bark, CHC, or Turface, are there really any other options?

I do have a distributor of EB Stone mixes. I've never used those but they look like good quality. I also have access to Sunshine Mix #4. I can get plenty of course (#3) perlite. Any ideas for a low-cost mix that might be comparable to 5-1-1, or negative experiences with EB Stone or Sunshine Mix #4?

Thanks in advance!

9
https://fruitmentor.com/ has a lot of information. He also has a YouTube channel with videos for most of his articles. Madison Citrus Nursery has some good YT videos on grafting. Most co-ops for citrus producing states (California, Arizona, Texas, Florida) have some good articles on grafting.

10
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cleft graft in summer?
« on: August 25, 2023, 12:17:36 AM »
Will do, thank you!

11
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cleft graft in summer?
« on: August 24, 2023, 11:12:16 AM »
I've never heard of the inlay graft before. I will research it, thank you.

12
Citrus General Discussion / Cleft graft in summer?
« on: August 23, 2023, 12:22:42 PM »
I did a bunch of bud grafts in the early spring that are all doing really well. I have a few rootstock left over and would like to graft over more variety. I'm in Phoenix so it's hot right now, but just starting to come down. Our low to high temps are averaging upper 80s to low triple digits. We probably have a good 2-3 months left in the growing season before trees slow down for winter. Would it be okay to do a cleft graft now, or should I wait for spring?

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Citrus General Discussion / Re: grafted citus trees
« on: August 15, 2023, 11:37:26 PM »
Great growth for one month! Looking good!

14
Citrus General Discussion / Re: source for DaisySL?
« on: August 08, 2023, 02:27:10 AM »
I ordered DaisySL budwood from Arizona's budwood program. I don't know if they ship out of state like California does, but it couldn't hurt to ask. It was very affordable. The website is not super useful, but you can check it out here:
https://www.nationalcleanplantnetwork.org/copy-of-north-carolina-university
Dr. Glenn Wright has handled questions and ordering for me in the past. You can reach him at gwright@ag.arizona.edu

15
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Meiwa kumquat tree
« on: July 14, 2023, 10:46:39 PM »
Looks very good!

16
My local co-op doesn't say anything about citrus at all
Perks of living in a citrus state, I guess. Something to make up for the inability to order anything citrus related online.

17
It's interesting, my local nursery requests mac for the kumquats, and it has so far performed wonderfully, but my local co-op advises against mac for oranges because of tendency for granulation in our hot, dry environment.

18
Congratulations on a new, healthy tree! I've never ordered from them because I'm in a restricted state, but I've only heard good things about them. I wish I could replicate their potting mix. Last time I looked, it was over $70 just to ship. I can't justify that for all my trees.

19
poncirusguy, I remember you prefer trifoliate as a rootstock for kumquat. Have you tried Citrus macrofila (alemow)?

My meiwa kumquat is on macrophylla and it is very vigorous. I bought it in the late summer of 2021 and it set fruit in the summer of 2022 that I enjoyed this winter/spring. It has set even more fruit this summer. I can't speak to longevity because it's only a few years old, but so far I have had no complaints, it's my most productive and hardy tree. I contacted the supplier after I bought the tree to find out what rootstock it was on and they said my nursery specifically requests mac, the supplier usually uses a different rootstock (probably poncirus or FD).

20
Quote
Hi Travillion, here is a link I found that mentions folded leaves of the DaisySL Mandarin, with pictures of the foliage that show the leaves are somewhat folded. So, I wouldn't worry too much but it's a good idea that you moved it to a shady spot. Good luck!


https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/crc4203

Wow, great find! I've actually read that page many times when I was deciding which mandarin variety to graft, but the appropriate sections didn't stand out to my inexperienced eyes. Thank you!

21
I didn't think of this earlier, but do you know if it is normal for this variety to have a cupped leaf? It is actually a characteristic of some citrus varieties to do that: Orlando Tangelo for example.
That's a good question, I don't know if it is normal. These are my first mandarin trees and in my preparation, I never read anything to suggest they were naturally cupping. Even so, some of this cupping does seem extreme. I'm inclined to trust Millet that it is weather stress.

22
Curled up leaves usually stay that way no matter what you do. That's my experience on many fruits. But those trees still produce nice fruit and big yields. My persimmon always curls. Same for my Goldrush apple. Both produce every year and a big yield of full sized fruit.

Good to know, thank you! I'll look for other signs of recovery then, like trunk turgor and new growth, rather than leaves uncurling.

23
The curled leaves is the plant trying its best to protect itself from the intense heat and sun.  Some shading will help greatly.  Also check to insure that the tree is getting enough water.

I would baby them as Millet has suggested. If that does not work, you may have a slight graft incompatibility issue. From what I have read mandarins are typically compatible with sour orange, but there are exceptions.

Thank you both! I pulled them out of direct sun today. They will only get shade from now on. I check the water frequently and I keep the mix moist. It's strange to me that it is only my mandarins going through this. Should the leaves open back up if conditions improve, or will they stay that way forever? I saw a YouTube video that said once leaves curl, they don't uncurl. But you know, YouTube.....

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Citrus General Discussion / Why are my mandarin grafts struggling?
« on: June 09, 2023, 06:10:30 PM »
In March I grafted 5 varieties on to 10 sour orange seedlings. All of them succeeded, and most are going really well. My Rio Red grapefruit, navel orange, and valencia orange broke early and have taken off. My minneola tangelo and daisy seedless mandarins were the last to break and grow. As summer has started here in Phoenix, most of my young grafts are tolerating things okay, but my two daisy mandarin trees are really struggling. They are doing the taco curled leaves. At first I thought it must be a pest because they are getting watered daily and are in a fast draining mix. But the more time I've spent, the more I wonder if it's a watering issue. I pulled one of the mandarins out of its pot this morning. The mix is moist but was not soggy or clumpy. The roots looked good and their were several white tips, which I believe are new root growths. Are daisy mandarins just more heat sensitive than other varieties? Or perhaps since they broke last, they didn't harden off as well as their siblings? Or is this pest damage? The leaves aren't crispy and aren't falling off. Temps are hitting 100F daily and they are in morning sun and afternoon shade.
I'll post pics as soon as I can figure out how.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9UkGmmqrqyjBUsvU6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TGuNuNGhyetgwxDn6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CcyTrj3oBm2ZBUnD8

25
I'm in 10A - as we approach Summer what temperature range is the cutoff for using oils, and can soaps be used during the hottest part of the hyear?

That's my problem. Most oils can't be sprayed above 85-90F. Where I live, that's when the trees are flushing and I see the most pests. I resort to spraying the trees off with a hose every week or so.

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