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Messages - Sandiegojane

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It inhibits CYP3A4, a cytochrome P450 enzyme produced by the liver, which is responsible for metabolizing many drugs.  This can increase the blood concentration of the drug.  For some drugs, this can increase the concentration to toxic levels.  The same thing can happen if you take multiple drugs that are metabolized by the same P450 enzyme because the metabolic effects can be saturated. Talk to your doctor about the possibility of reducing your dose when you are consuming grapefruit.

It is widely rumored that Huanglongbing (citrus greening) was brought into California by a foreign national legally travelling to the US, who brought infected citrus cuttings in his/her luggage, and then grafted to friends' and relative's residential citrus trees. They apparently tracked this person down, but he/she was long gone back to country of origin.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Santa Barbara Tropical Fruit
« on: July 29, 2020, 03:05:03 AM »
Time to call a pest control service or buy a shotgun!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Potentially Huge News for Citrus
« on: July 12, 2020, 04:55:55 AM »

Always wondered about grafting onto greening resistant rootstock but this could have a similar effect! Very exciting. A few of us knew it would be fine, that we would just have to wait it out for somebody who could profit off this to make a "real cure"

I wonder whether grafting a branch of finger lime onto other citrus varieties or spraying a crude extract from finger lime trimmings would would impart a protective effect.  Will be interesting to see where the peptide is expressed and in what quantities.

Try root pruning well before you want to move the tree.  Dig down and sever the roots as deeply as possible in as big a circumference as you can and are planning for the move, preferably at the drip line or beyond.  Place markers around the circumference of the cut roots (or measure the radius of the cut from the trunk) so you'll be able to find it later. Then refill the dirt loosely, water the tree, but don't move it. Allow the tree to grow for several months to reestablish new, fine roots at the point where they were severed.   You may see some signs of water loss initally. Once you've given the tree time to grow some new root hairs where the roots were severed, re-dig along the same line you dug before and remove the tree to its new location.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Tango mandarin stunted after re-pot
« on: April 27, 2020, 06:40:37 AM »
Sounds like you are following Gary Matsuoka's advice on repotting plants into a mix with low to no organic matter, which rots and kills plants.  He excludes peat moss in the definition of organic matter because it decomposes slowly and is, by nature, low organic (has been in a bog rotting for a long time...).  If you watch a few of his videos on this topic, you'll hear that the repotted plants turn yellow and drop leaves, but this is normal, and will resolve in time. In his potting mix, fertilizer is required as there is no organic matter to provide nutrients.  He uses Osmocote Plus, which has micros.  May be slower recovery repotting in fall and winter than spring because the plants are growing less actively.

I bought a Tango mandarin from four winds grower in middle of October.  The plant potting mix was a mixture of fir bark and peat moss.  So I decided to bare root the tree and repot it in a more gritty mix and still well drained.  I re-potted it on 10/14/2019.  I also gave it a scoop of osmocote plus.  I leave it in the shade for two weeks.  After two weeks, I brought it out to full sun.  Since then, the plant has been stunted.  The new growth/leaves are yellow.  The old ones are turning yellow also.  Do you think this is a seasonal issue or lack of nutrients?


Thanks for the info Sandiegojane! Somewhere on this forum, I posted about that technique as well. Removing a majority of the blooms also decreases the likelihood that the branches will droop from the weight of a full bloom panicle.

Here in San Diego, removing a majority of the blooms will still likely lead to a second or even third bloom event if the blooms are removed too early such as if you remove 90% of the blooms in November, December, January and even February or later.

In SoCal, average nightly lows is the most significant factor in bloom induction.

Iíve posted this several times before but here is a great article on Mango flowering


Thanks, Simon! 

I remember reading that article. Thanks for posting it!  I inadvertently confirmed the temperature effect.  When we had Santa Ana winds a couple months ago, I brought the small 5 gal mango I have and a few other plants in containers into my kitchen (around 70 degrees F and greater than the 10% RH outside) to protect them. The mango started blooming. I cut the flowers off and kept it inside for a few weeks.  It hasn't rebloomed yet, but hasn't pushed any new leaves either.  It's been outside for a couple months now.  I can just barely see some new green buds forming, but can't tell if they are flowers or leaves yet.  Guess I'll just bring it back inside if they turn out to be flowers. :)  May work for awhile, but was hoping there was an easier solution for larger pots or in-ground trees.  Oh well... 

Oolie, Thanks for letting me know - invaluable information.  I was really hot at the CFRF plant sale, so it's mostly my fault - I just wanted to get back in my air conditioned car.  :)

Simon,  I just saw this video from Chris at Truly Tropical:
She suggests cutting of most but not all of the individual panicles of mango flowers on young trees (in pots) to keep them from flowering again, allowing the plant to put more energy into vegetative growth.  If you remove just 90% or so, she says it is less likely to send out another panicle, but removing the whole thing triggers bloom.  She also has some tips on pruning to stimulate vegetative growth.  I know she's in Florida, so the temperature effect will be different, but might be worth a try. 

Thank you so much for your reply!  I'm afraid I'm not adventurous enough to try grafting.  Christmas tree lights I think could do, but not too much more. LOL!  I bought this tree (Fruit Punch) at the recent CRFG plant sale.  It is grafted, but I don't even know what rootstock it is on (the guy in that section was too busy and my daughter was getting impatient).  My hope is just to keep it alive and growing long enough to get some fruit.  I have one other Mango (Mallika) that I bought from Pine Island Nursery years ago, which is pretty small. I had 4 fruit this year, which were good (by my standards at least) but it isn't getting enough sun where it is located and I plan to move it. The fruit were on the side that's growing into the light (which side is doing well), but the other, shaded side is not happy.  I've been starting to root prune it and will relocate it in the spring. If if survives, I'll be happy. I give it about a 50% chance in my hands.  I wish I had more space and time to devote to gardening (sigh). Everything has to withstand periods of intense attention interspersed with periods of relative neglect.   

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: What varmint could this be?
« on: November 05, 2019, 04:43:00 AM »
Look into voles

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Is this asian citrus psyllid? What to do?
« on: November 02, 2019, 02:04:01 PM »
The picture showing adults and nymphs is pretty conclusive of ACP.  The waxy tubules are diagnostic to ACP.


This is a great thread and I've learned a lot about the mango tree I just purchased.  I do have a question about flowering and temperature in young trees.  If flowering is preventing vegetative growth and flowering continues until the temperature reaches a certain minimum temperature, has anyone tried using an external heat source, like incandescent Christmas tree lights, at least during the weeks or months before the average night time lows approach the temperature that suppresses flowering? Might that inhibit re-flowering and allow the young trees to put out more flushes? 

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