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Messages - Citradia

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Thanks, Kumin. So, if I put poncirus scion on FD high on trunk I will get a shorter tree ultimately than if I put it lower on the FD trunk?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Grafting poncirus and flying dragon
« on: July 28, 2021, 07:35:11 PM »
Will do.

Has anyone else used a thick mat/pile of poncirus branches as a barricade around other fruit trees to fend off squirrels? I know it will keep larger vermin away, but squirrels are wiley critters. I lost all my Bartlett pears to squirrels this past week and now they are hitting my keiffer pear tree. I put a thick pile of poncirus and native hawthorn branches around the pear tree from trunk out about five feet from the drip line. I thought about investing in those cat away mats on Amazon but that would be some pricey square footage. And no, trapping or shooting the squirrels isnít an option in my No-hunting-allowed deep woods gated neighborhood.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Grafting poncirus and flying dragon
« on: July 27, 2021, 02:34:05 PM »
Thanks yíall. I guess Iíll just try both ways and see what happens.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Grafting poncirus and flying dragon
« on: July 26, 2021, 09:54:10 PM »
I know plenty will think Iím nuts for asking, but here goes: Iím considering grafting mature poncirus and flying dragon wood onto poncirus or flying dragon rootstock to get small potted specimens that will bloom and fruit when still small. These will be easier to sell than one year old seedlings. Iím assuming grafting PT on FD would work and have a dwarfing affect like any other citrus on FD. But, what would happen if I put FD on PT rootstock? Would the FD scion have a benching effect and die off or what? 

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Madison Citrus Nursery.
« on: July 18, 2021, 09:55:20 PM »
I got a shiranui from Madison this year and I plan to protect it like my other mandarin/satsumas/kumquat/grapefruit: 4 mil plastic over a wooden frame, roll up one side to vent when not freezing, small space heater regulated by a thermo cube, water barrels.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: rootstock vs scion cold hardiness
« on: July 17, 2021, 08:25:39 PM »
Your tree will be less cold hardy in a container weather you wrap it in frost cloth or not. In my experience, frost cloth does not help much if your freezing event is very long as in a 24 hour freeze or longer. Unless poncirus, potted trees should be put in a shelter/cold frame/ greenhouse if you live in a zone where it freezes more than a few hours a night a couple of times a year. Remember you will probably have to keep overwintering meiwa fruit from freezing on the tree too.

Repot it. Give it some super thrive, Miracle Grow, set it in the sun for part of the day. If it doesnít grow after a year, toss it and try another one.

If itís still green it is alive. It is rootstock though. The grafted variety you bought is dead. You can put the potted plant outside and let it grow with care, fertilizer and appropriate amount of water. Prune off the dead parts. Post a pic of your living rootstock branches and we can tell you what it is maybe. If trifoliata you can probably plant it outside in the yard and it will probably survive winter without protection.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Apple disease ID
« on: July 07, 2021, 09:50:35 PM »
I canít tell anything from the pic posted but your description of white stuff that bleeds orange sounds like an insect problem Iíve seen but canít remember what it was called. I donít remember it causing a major problem though. Google it or send better pics to extension service agents.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: What's causing my plums to split?
« on: July 07, 2021, 09:44:27 PM »
Probably too much water. The tree takes up too much water faster than the skin of fruit can grow and it splits.

My paw paw trees are planted right under the canopy of a huge black walnut that has killed apples, cherry, dogwood, witch hazel, but my paw paws thrive under it and produce loads of fruit every year. Red bud and native wisteria and black raspberry and wine berry, sassafras, locust, and poncirus do well under it too, as does day lily and hostas.

I recently learned from Laaz on another forum that he uses a 50:50 mix of Turface ( in Europe called ďSeramisĒ) with Miracle Grow or Vigero Garden soil. The primary ingredient in Miracle Grow Garden Soil is peat and coir with some fertilizer. I repotted some citrus the past two days with this mix and can attest that it drains very well and is very easy to mix and use. Light weight too.


Hereís a current pic of my citradia under pvc pipe frame ready to be covered if temps predicted to get too low. This tree is around 10 years old. Froze back many times and once to roots and was given up for dead. Came back.

I have grown and lost several citradia and tiawanica seedlings over the years. Both have died down to ground and came back from roots several times when temps got down below 5 degrees F or when they started to grow in mid March and got a freeze of 14 degrees F. My tiawanica finally totally died one year, but I still have one citradia that is multi trunked and about five feet tall. Iím grafting it and growing cuttings of it to perpetuate the variety since it is extremely rare in the USA at this time. Iíve never got fruit from any of my citranges or hybrids since they freeze down to immature wood at least every other year if not every year if left uncovered. This past winter was very mild and my citradia and a dunstan and an 80-5, and one ichangensis seeeling were unscathed but my unprotected Thomasville lost half of its height again. My tiawanica was not any hardier than Ichang lemon even inside an unheated hoop house/high tunnel. Tiawanica really canít handle five degrees F without suplimental heating and covering, as is the case for any true citrus variety without poncirus parentage.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: June 25, 2021, 10:21:00 PM »
Good idea, vnomenee. You are better off with the grafted one on trifoliata since it is mature wood on hardy rootstock so it can be kept short enough to cover when it gets in single digits or below freezing for a week at a time. Your specimen on its own roots will eventually freeze to the ground and if it comes back, it will take years to reach maturity and will probably just keep dying back every year or every other year and never make a fruit. That is, unless this variety is really hardier than other hybrids. I need to ask Stan if I can get one from him and see if it can survive my mountain top wind tunnel. Iíd end up protecting it though like everything else. Iím a sucker. I hate seeing them freeze to death.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Ichang papeda seedlings for sale
« on: June 14, 2021, 07:30:05 AM »
I have two Ichang papeda seedlings for sale in five-gallon pots. They are about four years old from seed. Asking $20 each. These are the size of large bushy shrubs, so they are best picked up here in person rather than shipped. Iím located in Western NC. Message me for details on pick up.

Hereís my meiwa kumquat on flying dragon rootstock. Been there for past eight years or so. I wrap 4 mil plastic around three sides and south or east side is a roll-up door to vent on days above freezing. Roof is a separate sheet of plastic stapled to the wood frame which is secured to ground by iron stakes through eyelet in brackets on each leg of frame. I too have high winter winds blowing from northwest on my mountain top home and learned the hard way that frames have to be sunk into ground or if temporary are staked to ground. If I was afraid of heavy rains for three months in summer, I might consider leaving the roof cover on the frame and just take down the plastic sheeting walls in summer. My small space heater in each tree enclosure is controlled by a thermostat called thermo cube which helps overwinter the fruit.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Satsuma tree help, leaf drop
« on: May 13, 2021, 08:29:07 PM »
Now that winter is over, keep the tree out in the sun and humidity and let rain naturally wash off the mites. Mites thrive in dry environment of the home over winter. I take my potted citrus that are inside the house outside and spray them with the water hose once a week if itís not freezing outside during the winter to help prevent mites infestation. After water hose treatment, I let them dry outside again if not freezing, before spraying them with been oil solution before bringing them back inside. I wash off the pot trays/dishes too to get any mite eggs off of them too. If freezing, I spray them indoors with neem solution.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Freeze damage recovery
« on: May 05, 2021, 06:52:12 PM »
I had a ctradia flush out after a tour of zero degrees and sub freezing temps for the entire month of January, then it just up and died a week later; I noticed the trunk bark had a split in it at the base on the south side of trunk. Iíve noticed if the trunks split, the tree is toast.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Yuzu Ichang Papeda cross
« on: May 04, 2021, 06:44:28 PM »
My seedlings from ichang papeda fruits have not proven to be as hardy as trifoliate hybrids. I thought that it was supposed to be hardy to 0 degrees according to Tom McClendonís Hardy Citrus for the Southeast book. I had a really warm winter this year with temps getting above freezing every day and I lost two more three year old seedlings and one suffered minor damage with only being protected by plastic sheeting cover a few nights this winter. Iím done trying to grow papeda here. I have one yuzu but it will be protected like a satsuma here when I plant it in ground. I lost a seedling yuzu years ago when I tried protecting with only frost cloth.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: New citrus tree in ground
« on: May 03, 2021, 09:08:18 PM »
I use 4 mil plastic wrapped around three sides and stapled to frame. Fourth side facing south or east is a single sheet of plastic stapled to the horizontal roof board and other end stapled to a 2x4 that is rolled up and hung on hooks to ventilate on days above freezing. I have lost power in winter before and thatís why I put water barrels inside each enclosure for passive thermal protection and I also used my portable generator that I have plugged my drop cords into to keep some of the heaters going.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: New citrus tree in ground
« on: May 02, 2021, 08:20:47 AM »
My meiwa is mature at about 7 feet tall and wide on flying dragon roots. It produces heavily every year now. Since kumquat only supposed to be hardy to 20 degrees F, and l have to keep fruit to ripen on tree over winter into spring, I have to protect it from freezing as much as I can, so how low of a freeze it can survive is a moot point for me. I have a lot of potted meiwa seedlings a year old now that overwintered in the same cold frame with the grafted parent meiwa with no freeze damage with small 250 watt space heater to help mitigate temperature when below freezing.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus blossoms
« on: May 01, 2021, 11:03:37 PM »
My grapefruits are sweet and good now that the trees are more mature but I wait well into spring and even into the next fall to eat them so they get another year of warm weather to finish maturing.

The kumquat usually flowers in late April but Iíve seen it flower in fall as well. I actually had some rather mature fruit this fall/winter but usually not fully ripe until April. I donít do anything to make them bloom in spring; just try to keep them from freezing to death in winter by building greenhouse around each tree and heat them with space heaters regulated by thermo cubes. The citrus trees bloom a little later here for me than the apples do.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus blossoms
« on: April 30, 2021, 07:59:16 PM »
Oops! The pics didnít come out in order. Thatís Owari, Croxton, Meiwa, Kimbrough, Rio Red

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