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Messages - Millet

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Citrus General Discussion / Re: Pomello leaf drop
« on: June 13, 2021, 04:35:17 PM »
As you wrote, it  could be too much water (over wet medium) which would of course drive out the root zone oxygen.  However, to cause damage, the over watering (Flood effect) would have to be more than 2 days.

Summer spray applications of low biuret urea is designed to increase fruit size and juice without increasing yield. The time of application is important.  The treatment is designed to extend the cell division stage of fruit development to achieve an increase in fruit size.  The end of the cell division stage is characterized by maximum peel thickness; the peel thickness period is between approximately June 11 and July 26.  Low biuret urea is most effective when applied between July 1 to July 26.  Applications of low biuret urea that are too early  (May and June) increase fruit retention and thus are less effective in increasing fruit size.  It is not known whether low biuret urea applications would be effective if applied  later than the end of July. When applied in the summer at maximum peel thickness, low biuret urea is applied as a single spray targeting July 15 + or - 7 days at a rate of 50-lbs of low biuret urea  per 200 gallons of water per acre.  (.25-lb. low biuret urea/1-gallon).  All applications should be made to give GOOD ANOPY COVERAGE, much like spraying an insecticide.  For best results the solutions should be between a pH of 5.5 and 6.5. Applications should be made when the air temperature is below 80F.  Taking in consideration the potential maximum daytime temperature, applications should be make in early morning or late afternoon to early evening.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Pomello leaf drop
« on: June 13, 2021, 02:48:24 PM »
As far as the blooms go, only about 1 to 1.5 percent of them will produce fruit.  Most blooms will eventually die on their own, or will set fruitlets, which will mostly drop (called June drop).  Research by Perdue University shows that one fruit left of a very small tree will not hurt the tree.  As to the leaf fall, I would ask two questions:  (1) how long has the tree been growing in that container without being transplanted, and (2) what is the blend of the growing medium that the tree is planted in?  Among the primary  reasons for leaf fall is a lack of soil air, and or a high level of soil CO2, both caused by soil compaction

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Indoor Citrus
« on: June 10, 2021, 08:56:43 PM »
I spent my adult life working in the greenhouse industry (carnations/roses/potted plants.)  Commercially, most all growers use phosphoric acid for pH control.

I just fill a 1 gallon container and stick the cuttings in.

Although spinosad has low toxicity to most beneficial insects, initial acute laboratory tests indicated that spinosad is intrinsically toxic to pollinators. The hazard of spinosad to bees was evaluated using a tiered approach. Initial acute laboratory exposures were conducted, followed by toxicity of residues of spinosad on treated foliage, greenhouse studies to assess acute as well as chronic toxicity, confined field assessments, and finally full field studies using a variety of crops under typical use conditions. These data were used to assess the potential of adverse effects on foraging bees following the use of spinosad. This research has clearly demonstrated that spinosad residues that have been allowed to dry for 3 hr are not acutely harmful to honeybees when low-volume and ultralow-volume sprays are used. Further, glasshouse and semifield studies have demonstrated that dried residues are not acutely toxic, and although pollen and nectar from sprayed plants may have transient effects on brood development, the residues do not overtly affect hive viability of either the honeybee or the bumblebee.  (Copied from research trials)

As Eric wrote above it would be a mistake to remove leaves that he miner has damaged.  Those leaves still produce energy for the tree.  Spinosad is a very helpful spray used by MANY citrus growers to control the insect.

For areas that are free of tristazia sour orange is a fantastic root stock.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: mealybug destroyer ladybugs
« on: June 07, 2021, 11:03:37 AM »
To rid your plants of mealybugs, you have to be twice as relentless as the bug.  Every day after day. Doing so will eventually results in victory. I have them in my greenhouse also.  I use forceful water sprays, plus horticultural oil sprays, and also my fingers.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: weird kumquat leaf drop issue
« on: June 03, 2021, 02:38:12 PM »
I  don't think the slow release fertilizer had anything to do with it.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: June 02, 2021, 02:56:37 PM »
I had a Flying Dragon planted close to the south wall of a metal barn. The first real cold spell it was killed. A member of the forum wrote that if I had planted the tree on the north side of the barn, it would have properly hardened off before the real cold weather arrived, and survived.  I am located at 5,240 ft above sea level in zone 5..

Citrus General Discussion / Re: mealybug destroyer ladybugs
« on: June 02, 2021, 02:48:43 PM »
What happens most of the time the predator bugs eat all the insects, then starve to death.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: mealybug destroyer ladybugs
« on: June 02, 2021, 01:11:00 PM »
Being a Lady Beatle they might eat other types of insects also.    Be careful you don't blow them out of the greenhouse with the exhaust fans.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: June 02, 2021, 11:07:05 AM »
there is no hard and fast cold temperature tolerance for poncirus plus.  It all depends on how slow the winters temperatures cool down, was there a hot spell right before the freeze, how healthy the tree is, how strong the wind, and on and on.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Satsuma flowering
« on: May 30, 2021, 08:08:43 PM »
lebmung, very nice container tree.  You have done an outstanding job growing that tree.  Congratulations.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Flying Dragon Fruiting requirements?
« on: May 29, 2021, 11:51:02 AM »
Growing a FD on the northside of the house as poncirusguy does, allows the tree to harden up in the fall and be ready for the colder temperatures of winter. I once  grew a FD near a south facing wall of one of my barns, and when the first real cold night came it died.  I am in zone 5.

other Nature at work!

Citrus General Discussion / Re: weird kumquat leaf drop issue
« on: May 27, 2021, 11:14:32 AM »
Incubator01,  you wrote you lost trees in a 5-1-1 medium (5 parts pine bark chips, 1 part perlite and 1 par peat moss), sorry that happened.  However, many thousands of people have outstanding success, enclouding myself, with 5-1-1.  Whatever, from your picture the medium you are using looks to be on that does not provide the amount of aeriation required by citrus.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: weird kumquat leaf drop issue
« on: May 26, 2021, 04:51:38 PM »
Looking at the first picture, is the potting soil that the tree is planted in manly just a peat moss & perlite (regular commercial retail potting soil) ?

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Issue with my yuzu plant
« on: May 25, 2021, 05:48:56 PM »
The fertilizer you have would be OK for your tree. However, look on the bag and see if it also contains the trace elements (Manganese, boron, magnesium, zinc,  copper and etc.)  Trace elements are essential for citrus.  Without trace minerals your tree will always be in trouble. Fertilize at a  VERY MINIMUM once a month.  If you don't want to mess with constant fertilizing every now and then, you can purchase Osmocote-PLUS which is a slow release fertilizer.  Each application lasts for 5-6  months, and slowly supplies nutrients to your tree  with every watering.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Issue with my yuzu plant
« on: May 25, 2021, 11:12:30 AM »
It looks like it is under fertilized.  When you do fertilize what is the fertilize you use?   Hopefully it is not an organic fertilizer, due to the fact that your tree is a container grown tree.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Indoor Citrus
« on: May 22, 2021, 03:34:26 PM »
The medium that you are going to use should provide good aeration to the roots.  That type of medium will require a more frequent watering schedule than peat type mediums.  You seem to have a good feeling of all the important requirements for indoor citrus growing.

On my larger containers I submerge the container in a larger container and let soak over night.  I do this approximately every couple mounts or so.  Other wise I normally water from the surface of the container.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Beneficial Insects
« on: May 22, 2021, 11:31:53 AM »
Preserving Beneficial Insects
May 18, 2021Biologicals, HLB Management

beneficial insects
Green lacewing
Beneficial insects could be a citrus grower’s best friend. In a time when producers are applying insecticides to control the Asian citrus psyllid, the vector of citrus greening disease, it’s important to preserve the psyllids’ natural enemies, like lady beetles and lacewings.

Jawwad Qureshi, University of Florida entomologist, implores growers to scout their groves periodically to see what insects are present.

“If they know what’s there, then they can strategize their spraying. If they go out there and see a lot of lady beetles or a lot of lacewings, then they can think, maybe I should wait a little, or if I have to spray, maybe I should look into the Citrus Production Guide and see which pesticides are relatively less toxic so I can use one of those rather than using something that’s really harsh,” Qureshi says.

Qureshi is not suggesting growers stop spraying. But they need to evaluate the situation and see what insects are present. They need to conserve and preserve those resources.

“Let’s say you have a good population of lady beetles and you go and knock them down. That means you’ve killed many of those adults that were going to produce the eggs and babies that were going to be useful, not only for you, but for the neighbors and other crops as well,” he adds.

Beneficial insects were a lot more visible prior to the discovery of citrus greening disease than they are today. Qureshi said research studies found that beneficial insects knocked down 80% to 90% of the Asian citrus psyllid population.

“Several years ago, before this greening disease was found in Florida, we relied heavily on biologicals in the citrus system. There were a lot of lady beetles, lacewings and other beneficial predators that were feeding on the psyllid,” Qureshi says. He notes that sprays used for greening have significantly impacted the populations of beneficial insects.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus pruning and soil mix options
« on: May 21, 2021, 08:43:32 PM »
Bsalta, the bark in your picture should be fine.

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