Watering mango trees in California

[Kankan]

I've read some posts on this but none of them address my specific circumstances. I have a bunch of mango trees planted the last 2 years that range from 1.5" diameter to 2.5 diameter trunks and 4'-8' tall. Im in Fallbrook with well draining sandy loam and trees are planted in the ground in full sun. I fear I lost a couple trees from overwatering earlier this year trying to augment the heavy rains we got this spring when really I just didn't need to water. Now I'm worried about killing more from overwatering even though its hot (90's) lately. When I take a soil core sample the soil is damp enough to almost hold together at 8"-12" deep, first 2-3" are mostly dry. My last water was about 12 days ago and I tend to water heavy and deep when I water.

So the big question is-in the summer heat of San Diego at what frequency should I water these mango trees? Would love to hear from fellow Californians that have been there, done that!

Thanks in advance!

Kevin N.

[spaugh]

I have my sprinklers running 3 times a week.  If your soil drains well then 12 days in this 100F weather is not enough water.  Thry grow faster with plenty of water during this heat. 

[JCorte]

We water 3 times a week as well.

Janet

[Kankan]

Thats interesting, more than I thought. They dont seem to be stressed from not enough water, I suspect they are somehow getting water from the avocado grove they border. Thanks for the guidance.

[spaugh]

Its not necessarily "more" water.  Its a bit of water consistently so the field stays a certain mositure level.  With well drain DG soil, the moisture level or "field capacity" is not as high as for more clay soil.  With well draining soil it is kind of hard to over water.  The moisture level is always below 30%

If you you want to see what the moisture level in your field is you can buy a irrometer.  They cost about 100$ and you can put 1 or 2 out in the orchard and key your spinklers off one tree with an irrometer. 

[fruitnut1944]

If the plants are growing like you want, they're getting enough water. If not, then maybe smaller applications more often. Heavy applications in well drained soil can waste a lot of water.

The plant will tell you more than the feel or look of the soil. Mango do have roots below 12 inches. So you can only tell so much from the surface soil.

[Elijah]

I've read some posts on this but none of them address my specific circumstances. I have a bunch of mango trees planted the last 2 years that range from 1.5" diameter to 2.5 diameter trunks and 4'-8' tall. Im in Fallbrook with well draining sandy loam and trees are planted in the ground in full sun. I fear I lost a couple trees from overwatering earlier this year trying to augment the heavy rains we got this spring when really I just didn't need to water. Now I'm worried about killing more from overwatering even though its hot (90's) lately. When I take a soil core sample the soil is damp enough to almost hold together at 8"-12" deep, first 2-3" are mostly dry. My last water was about 12 days ago and I tend to water heavy and deep when I water.

So the big question is-in the summer heat of San Diego at what frequency should I water these mango trees? Would love to hear from fellow Californians that have been thee, done that!

Thanks in advance!

Kevin N.

I am curious what mango varieties you are growing. Some varieties may not tolerate well to over-watering or heat?

[gozp]

You said sandy loam. What does your sandy loam soil consists of?

[Bush2Beach]

Did you buy tree's from Florida grafted on turpentine?

[Kankan]

I have sand loam in most of my property although there is an area that gets into clay after about 1'. I suspect the watering from the avocados is soaking further into the field underground than I previously thought. In the pictures some of these soils samples are 20' away from being hit even by an occasional drop from the avocado irrigation, some are 10' away from the perimeter of the avocado sprinklers reach. The soil samples in the pictures were taken today and the last watering was about 15 days ago. Mostly dry the first few inches and then progressively damp-moist, able to form a clump at 12" in all samples taken.

I have the following varieties of mangoes with various rootstock (manilla, turpentine, and Coriente). The 2 unknown varieties are estimated to be about 12 years old and 6 years old, the rest were planted by me in the last 2.5 years as about 3 year old trees. The picture of the mango tree in this post is the smallest (so arguably should be the most stressed from lack of water):

Kesar
Chok Anan
Keitt
Valencia pride
Lemon zest
peach cobbler
sugar loaf
fruit punch
Sweet tart
Angie
orange sherbert
M-4
Cac
Kathy
NDM
Diamond (Sein Ta Lone)
Haden
Pickering
florigon
Glenn
2 unknown

[Elijah]

I have sand loam in most of my property although there is an area that gets into clay after about 1'. I suspect the watering from the avocados is soaking further into the field underground than I previously thought. In the pictures some of these soils samples are 20' away from being hit even by an occasional drop from the avocado irrigation, some are 10' away from the perimeter of the avocado sprinklers reach. The soil samples in the pictures were taken today and the last watering was about 15 days ago. Mostly dry the first few inches and then progressively damp-moist, able to form a clump at 12" in all samples taken.

I have the following varieties of mangoes with various rootstock (manilla, turpentine, and Coriente). The 2 unknown varieties are estimated to be about 12 years old and 6 years old, the rest were planted by me in the last 2.5 years as about 3 year old trees. The picture of the mango tree in this post is the smallest (so arguably should be the most stressed from lack of water):

Kesar
Chok Anan
Keitt
Valencia pride
Lemon zest
peach cobbler
sugar loaf
fruit punch
Sweet tart
Angie
orange sherbert
M-4
Cac
Kathy
NDM
Diamond (Sein Ta Lone)
Haden
Pickering
florigon
Glenn
2 unknown

wow. Amazing list. That is more than a back yard quantity. You have most of varieties I'd like to have. You are missing Maha.

[gozp]

Have u fertilized lately? If so, what kind of fertilizer?

[Kankan]

I have sand loam in most of my property although there is an area that gets into clay after about 1'. I suspect the watering from the avocados is soaking further into the field underground than I previously thought. In the pictures some of these soils samples are 20' away from being hit even by an occasional drop from the avocado irrigation, some are 10' away from the perimeter of the avocado sprinklers reach. The soil samples in the pictures were taken today and the last watering was about 15 days ago. Mostly dry the first few inches and then progressively damp-moist, able to form a clump at 12" in all samples taken.

I have the following varieties of mangoes with various rootstock (manilla, turpentine, and Coriente). The 2 unknown varieties are estimated to be about 12 years old and 6 years old, the rest were planted by me in the last 2.5 years as about 3 year old trees. The picture of the mango tree in this post is the smallest (so arguably should be the most stressed from lack of water):

Kesar
Chok Anan
Keitt
Valencia pride
Lemon zest
peach cobbler
sugar loaf
fruit punch
Sweet tart
Angie
orange sherbert
M-4
Cac
Kathy
NDM
Diamond (Sein Ta Lone)
Haden
Pickering
florigon
Glenn
2 unknown

wow. Amazing list. That is more than a back yard quantity. You have most of varieties I'd like to have. You are missing Maha.

I have two Mahachanoks, just accidentally left them off the list!

[Kankan]

Have u fertilized lately? If so, what kind of fertilizer?

I have killed more trees than I saved fertilizing...so I have been very sparing with 2 x year osmocote slow release. Additionally, I took out some avocado trees that have been in place over 20 years (with built up mulch to make room for the mangoes so Im fairly certain they are getting some nutrients still in the soil.

[Kankan]

Its not necessarily "more" water.  Its a bit of water consistently so the field stays a certain mositure level.  With well drain DG soil, the moisture level or "field capacity" is not as high as for more clay soil.  With well draining soil it is kind of hard to over water.  The moisture level is always below 30%

If you you want to see what the moisture level in your field is you can buy a irrometer.  They cost about 100$ and you can put 1 or 2 out in the orchard and key your spinklers off one tree with an irrometer.

Been reading up on these since you mentioned them. I knew they existed but not much about how they work. This type seems to have good reviews except for very wet soils and seems more maintenance free then the distilled water vacuum type. I bought 10 to put in different depths and locations, seems like this should take some of the guessing out of quantity and frequency of watering. If they work like I hope they do I may use them in my avocado grove as well.

[Oolie]

I have killed more trees than I saved fertilizing...so I have been very sparing with 2 x year osmocote slow release. Additionally, I took out some avocado trees that have been in place over 20 years (with built up mulch to make room for the mangoes so Im fairly certain they are getting some nutrients still in the soil.

For a couple years I used Osmocote and compost, but my mangoes barely grew. When I started increasing fertilizer applications, especially nitrogen, they immediately responded with larger, more frequent growth flushes.
My soil is well drained silty loam, so soluble nutrients pass through, with heavier soil Osmocote will be more effective.

[Kankan]

I have killed more trees than I saved fertilizing...so I have been very sparing with 2 x year osmocote slow release. Additionally, I took out some avocado trees that have been in place over 20 years (with built up mulch to make room for the mangoes so Im fairly certain they are getting some nutrients still in the soil.

For a couple years I used Osmocote and compost, but my mangoes barely grew. When I started increasing fertilizer applications, especially nitrogen, they immediately responded with larger, more frequent growth flushes.
My soil is well drained silty loam, so soluble nutrients pass through, with heavier soil Osmocote will be more effective.

Thanks Oolie, What is your mango fertilizer of choice in San Diego? What is your fertilizing schedule?

[Oolie]

I have killed more trees than I saved fertilizing...so I have been very sparing with 2 x year osmocote slow release. Additionally, I took out some avocado trees that have been in place over 20 years (with built up mulch to make room for the mangoes so Im fairly certain they are getting some nutrients still in the soil.

For a couple years I used Osmocote and compost, but my mangoes barely grew. When I started increasing fertilizer applications, especially nitrogen, they immediately responded with larger, more frequent growth flushes.
My soil is well drained silty loam, so soluble nutrients pass through, with heavier soil Osmocote will be more effective.

Thanks Oolie, What is your mango fertilizer of choice in San Diego? What is your fertilizing schedule?

I'm not there with enough frequency to get good results, but I'd fertilize frequently if I could (due to the high soil permeability, different soils will require different intervals)
I use MG supplemented with gypsum because it's widely available and water soluble, and I'm using drip, so osmocote would do little-nothing.

As long as the trees get adequate water, N and K they put out good growth, but it's really hot there. In cooler areas trees will do fine with less.