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Messages - CA Hockey

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Overhyped avocados
« on: September 10, 2022, 11:26:34 AM »
My green gold is a beast. Got it from epicenter.

My nishikawa was a dud. Grows great but never flowered. I pruned it heavily last September and surprise it flowered and is holding fruit. Not as many as a tree of its size can hold, but it's better than nothing. I'll hard prune again this year and see if I can continue the trend.

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: aravaipa avocado
« on: September 10, 2022, 11:23:42 AM »
My tree is small and has stayed small

3
The ones that actually completely died were the ones that were in pots. The ones that were in ground have lasted longer and are larger. Maybe I'm better at recognizing the signs are damaged. My DOT tree and honey kiss tree almost died to the base but I managed to save them about 6 in about the graft union.

4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Places to buy fresh exotic fruits in LA
« on: August 27, 2022, 07:46:57 PM »
Garden grove/Westminster mom and pop Vietnamese grocery stores will have peeled jackfruit,  sugar apple,  mangosteen,  sugarcane,  and some other fruits.

5
Yes!

The scion exchanges promote January and February but that's out of convenience for when we prune just before flowering and when we prune other trees. The best times to graft are usually late spring but you can graft avocados really any time of year because they are Evergreen and are growing throughout the year. You can graph now and so long as your root stock is still pushing New Growth had a good clip it will grow well. Just make sure you protect from the Heat and the sun. Let The graft push two or three flushes and then it should be set. I have seen graphs push one flush and then die afterwards. I don't know if this is because there is eventual graph die back or if the graft is weak and becomes easily dislodged by critters.

6
I live in orange. If you ever want to split the supplies or buy some let me know. I have them but in large quantities.... 😅

7
I have Peter's for my spray regimen. For my fertigation (also ez Flo,  5 gal) I add keyplex,  some humic,  and some fulvic acid.

For my spraying regimen,  I use the following recipe from tff

https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=4119.25

To promote fruiting,  I spray with potassium nitrate which I learned from behlgarden and jf.

8
Some people treat the die back with antifungal including systemic antifungals,  but I'm not sure if those are reliably effective.

The only cure I know of and that works for me is cutting out the infection. I cut a couple of inches below any shriveling or black areas. If the branch is small enough or if a large part is compromised, then I just cut off the whole section. If the main trunk gets involved,  I try and cut under it. A healthy tree will push out new nodes. If the tree continues to decline,  then the infection has continued to spread internally.

The best protection is prevention. Protect the exposed wood in the summer. Mango leaves can handle the heat but the green wood can get sunburned like an avocado tree. The damaged wood can then be susceptible to infection in winter and spring.

Good pruning to prevent rubbing branches and to promote good airflow also helps. In summer it's not so much of a problem,  but mango trees don't typically shed their leaves so any poor airflow problems that arise in the hot summer when it's hot will be magnified in the relatively warm and damp California Winters and foggy misty spring,  setting you up for infection as well as powdery mildew on your blooms.

Buddy roo -  I used to use grow more 20 20 20 and micros in my fertigation system. Last year I switched to 30 10 10 but spread around various down to earth products to boost sweetness. It was OK. This year I did the 30 10 10 with micros but didn't spread anything else out. I minimized water quite a bit as my mangos last year were watery. So far what I have this year is very very sweet so cutting off water did help,  but many trees didn't bloom or lost all their blooms to powdery mildew. Next year I'll either move back to my spraying regimen and keep the 30 10 10 or swap to 20 20 20 with spraying or change to 10 30 30.

9
Most likely it was a sap infection of some sort,  gummosis or phomopsis. The leaves on a branch will one day start to look dry - just on one branch. That's the first sign. A day or 2 later the branch will start to shrivel. If you wait, the infection spreads proximally towards the main trunk. Sometimes the affected branch will turn black but not always.

My first year growing mangos and spending $$$$ shipping trees from Florida I lost 1/3 of the trees. It usually hits in late winter and early spring - February,  but especially March and April.

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / SoCal Orange County mango report 2017-2022
« on: August 26, 2022, 03:41:06 AM »
My mango report over the past few years in socal. The mango report is relatively pathetic this year. It's probably a mix of poor fertilizer choice,  severe powdery mildew,  and an extended freeze that damaged several trees.

In late February we had an unusually prolonged frost that caused cold damage. I'd never seen cold damage in my mango trees. Leaves partially wilted,  and unfortunately these half-dead leaves were severely disease-prone as the dead portions were like a magnet for disease.

Sweet tart is an easy grower here in CA but flowering is hit and miss. Only 1 fruit this year. In years past brix has been higher than 30. Easy grower. no die back that I can ever remember. It has grown too big for itself and broken branches because of how heavy it has gotten.

Pina colada,  coconut cream, M4, orange essence,  phoenix - reliable flowering and disease free for me. Pina colada is of course slow growing but tastes fantastic. Highest brix for me was 36.

Sugarloaf also fruits reliably for me but my tree is small.

Lemon zest flowers profusely but loses almost everything to powdery mildew. The tree grows quickly though and loves this weather and will flower. If you want to grow it in socal, you need to manage die back quickly and spray for powdery mildew starting in February.

Orange sherbet grows very well. Flowered heavily for me the first year but hasn't flowered for a few years until putting out 1 mango this year.

Taralay has been a reliable heavy producer for me for a few years now except for this year. I did change my fertilizer regimen and gave heavy nitrogen this year.

Honey kiss... Grows but is prone to random die back.

Dot - gave fantastic fruit for a couple of years but 90% of the tree died back due to infection. It's hanging on by a thread.

Ppk doesn't like my climate. It's alive and flowers once per season sparsely but it prefers to grow when we have humid monsoon weather from Arizona. It didn't flush at all this season until this past week,  and now it's going bonkers.

Kesar was like Ppk but finally succumbed to die back. I have a new graft on different rootstock and will get a better chance to judge it.

Venus - hard to say. It's growing under a mulberry and so is essentially shaded and suffers from random die back. I think it would do better in full sun.

Orange essence is a problem free aggressive grower and sets lots of fruit. If you are a rookie and want a Florida mango tree grow this.

Phoenix also grows vigorously and sets lots of fruit but does have random die back.

I mention the die back because it spreads rapidly and will kill the tree of it gets deep enough into the trunk.

Furit punch does well and is relatively disease free.

Juicy Peach seems like a dud but I got some wood from Alex at tropical acres and am regrafting it onto more vigorous rootstock. The original Juicy Peach has grown maybe 5 8nches in 4 years.

Pineapple Pleasure also seems like a dud. Hasn't flowered in 4 years. 1 tree has grown several feet whioe another has grown just a few inches.

Cotton candy is growing and did produce good quality fruit. I've only had it for 2 years now.

Mabruka flowers at the end of fall for me and produces fruit over winter and then something or someone steals it as it flattens up in spring.

Mallika died. Never liked the fruit. Giving it another chance.

M4 is also an easy grower and fruits reliably for me. It is later season for me like it is in Florida.

Cecilove is small and hasn't flowered yet.

Karen Michelle is small and hasn't flowered yet

M10 is small and haven't flowered yet.

11
Thanks for sharing Alex. I started to respond and add my thoughts on growing mangos in socal,  but the response got too long so I just made another thread.

Always appreciate hearing your insights.

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Coffee
« on: August 26, 2022, 02:43:46 AM »
The fruit taste reminds me of a cooked onion with sugar. it's an odd savory taste. Maybe with natural drying or fermentation it may taste differently,  or under the influence of miracle fruit 9t may taste better but for me it's more of a curiosity. Perhaps there are some better tasting varieties out there.

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Overhyped avocados
« on: August 25, 2022, 04:54:55 PM »
Green gold is fantastic.

It's like Hass but better for me and later season. This is the first year I leave them on so long and they are still good through end of August.

The fruit are larger than Hass,  the seed is bigger too but the seed:flesh ratio is favorable. It has a heavy fruit set every year. My Hass will alternate bear if it sets too heavily one year while the green gold is reliably a heavy producer.

14
Hi Bill

Can you please put me down for 12 trees? 3 of each female please.
Orange county,  California

15
Lz grows well but has lots of disease issues. Lots of flowers but fruit set is severely compromised.

Os grows easily but hasn't flowered for me for 3 years straight now.

Ppk grows like a turtle and holds a couple fruit.

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Overhyped avocados
« on: May 29, 2022, 05:47:40 AM »
Hey brad

My green gold is a clear champ. Different from yours. Mine grows straight up, strong central leader, sets tons of fruit yearly, basically a problem free tree with lots of excellent large fruit.

Got mine from epicenter.
My hass is alternate bearing because it holds so much fruit every other year.

My Pinkerton is also a champ. I have 2 of them. One is bushy, the other grows upright. Both flower and fruit profusely every year.

Leavens hass and ardith were killed by gopher/vole combo. Same with Rio hass.

17
Yes, thanks to all involved.

All trees were potted into 3g pots in liner mix.

Some of them look like they're trying to bud out. I assume flowers for on second year wood, so unlikely to get flowers this year. Not sure if the buds will survive or not, but the weather we now have should be excellent for rooting out.

When did people receive the last orders? Sorry - I hadn't been paying attention to previous orders.

18

We will use same color of label for each variety as we did for last time.
For new variety, we will add other type of colors.



If you run out of color labels or it is difficult to find a different color, just use combinations. Is specific combination can represent a different variety I'm good thank you

19
Revival roots - I'll send you a message.

20
Yes thank you so much for putting this together.

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: avocado question
« on: February 16, 2022, 04:29:23 AM »
Normal for California trees especially. Don't worry too much about it. They will flush strongly. In the meantime, take a good luck at the exposed branches and paint the wood to protect it from sunburn. The new leaves should shade most of the exposed wood, but in the event that there's a gap, severe sunburn can seriously stunt your tree. My kahaluu is still recovering from the great burn of 2018.

22
Can you please put me down for 3 of each female please and 1 of each male please?

3 wusu female
3 biqi female
3 late growing female
3 crystal female
3 dongqui female
3 black crystal female
3 an Hai female

1 bq male
1 LG male
1 cr male
1 dk male

Total 25 trees

Thanks
Khaled

23
Hi there. Is it too late to jump in on the order? Ideally I'd take 2 of each. I'm in orange.

Khaled

24
Let me clarify - yes you can plant now but I don't recommend it. The plant won't grow (much... Some of my in ground are still flushing or started to flower) but the disease pressures are high and it's much easier for me to control in pots than in ground hooked up to irrigation. A few years ago I lost 1/3 of my mangos before spring started. For me it's just easier to keep protected and on the dry side (don't overwater).

25
No, keep overwinter in pot with minimal watering, protect from wind, and plant in March or April. Die back from freeze and fungus typically shows in March first.

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