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I have found the best time is early spring when I can put the tree outside in shade. I can acclimate the tree to sunlight while the tree adjusts to the root pruning. It is much harder to adjust in spring time than fall because the sun has risen to sun scalding levels when it is still quite cold outside.
Yes. Each up potting I cleared out circling roots and cut he bottom 1/2 inch mass of matted roots off. I will be up potting this spring from my 30 gallon pot to a 54 gallon Stainless steel pot on swivel wheels I will trim off the circling and matted roots. This will be the final up potting for this tree.
Cold stress is a significant environmental factor that negatively affects plant growth and development in particular when it occurs during the growth phase. Plants have evolved means to protect themselves from damage caused by chilling or freezing temperatures and some plant species, in particular those from temperate geographical zones, can increase their basal level of freezing tolerance in a process termed cold acclimation. Cold acclimation improves plant survival, but also represses growth, since it inhibits activity of the growth-promoting hormones gibberellins (GAs). In addition to GAs, the steroid hormones brassinosteroids (BRs) also take part in growth promotion and cold stress signaling; however, in contrast to Gas, BRs can improve cold stress tolerance with fewer trade-offs in terms of growth and yields. Here we summarize our current understanding of the roles of BRs in cold stress responses with a focus on freezing tolerance and cold acclimation pathways.
I have 8 or so trees on flying dragon. They all have benching but not sure how/if that affects the tree, they produce well for their size (too well). Trees were all precocious but I would have thought all grafting citrus were. The downside (and the reason why you shouldn't care about them being precocious) is that they do grow VEEERY slowly. I pull most fruit off. I don't hate pruning and wish at times I had used a more vigorous rootstock.
This might interest you about the more recent going ons in Australia.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjIu4GnX4Rc
Hi scamper!
I understand your concern for dwarfing. In AZ citrus used to be propagated on Flying Dragon or Sour Orange rootstock. More often now it is all almost always on C-35. I have many citrus trees on both Sour Orange and C-35 and both seem to be fairly vigorous rootstocks. I seem to recall that C-35 is more disease resistant, not necessarily dwarfing.
Question: You have an existing Meiwa on C-35. You need to transfer it to something more dwarfing? I am surprised. In AZ citrus grows incredibly fast. And I have a several year old Meiwa kumquat and it is maybe 5-6 ft tall. Very slow growing. But very productive for it's size. Do you get a good harvest off your kumquats in Chicago?
Good luck on your research!
There are limitations on FD. Benching is one of them.
Growing very slowly then you will need to wait many many years to have a big tree in 10 gallon container.
It's good for ornamental purpose to gave few citrus fruits in the tree. If you intend to eat from eat it again you need to wait years.
I use selected vigorous PT and a selected Ischang papeda.
You can use comercial rootstockand you can repot the trees every year until final pot then after every 2-3 years prune the roots and change the soil.
Hard tap water is a killer for FD.
